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By mtoensing
From Boulder
Dec 6, 2011


By Nick Stayner
From Billings, MT
Dec 6, 2011
Nick Stayner near the crux. Ryan Minton photo.
Many have already been stated and my list is Cali-centric, but here goes:
Speed of Life, Tioga Pass
Butterballs, Yosemite
Red Zinger, Yosemite
Take any crack pitch on Sunspot or Positive Vibrations
Serenity-Sons (maybe best 5.10 multipitch crack route anywhere?)

Too many to list in the Creek...

By Abel Jones
From Colorado Springs, CO
Dec 6, 2011
Nice Crisp day for an FA
1. Japanese Gardens, Index, WA (Refering to linking pitch 1&2)
2. New Traditionalist, New River, WV
3. Terminator, Oak Creek, AZ
4. Critic's Choice, Indian creek, UT
5. Black Angel, Tuolumne, Ca (want this in my back yard)

1. Freeway, squamish, BC
2. Sunspot Dihedral, Bridgeport, CA
3. Astroman, Yos, Ca
4. Silk Road, Calavaras, Ca
5. West Face of El Cap, Yos, Ca (wish I could do harder El CAPS)
6. Alaska Highway, Squamish, Ca (Prolly better if linked with the calling)

All of these routes have a good variety of different styles and pure quality crack.

By Rich Farnham
Dec 6, 2011
Lifetime goal -- print out this thread and hit the road...

By Dusty
From Fort Collins
Dec 6, 2011
just teasin' the sharks...
Wunsch's Dihedral

By chuck claude
From Flagstaff, Az
Dec 12, 2011
First climb after knee surgery
For me
Single Pitch
Terminator- oak creek, Az...
Lifeline* and Red Planet*-Sedona, Az
Optimator* and Learning to Fly*- Indian Creek

Shangrila- Sedona, Az
Alaskan Highway-Squamish
Rostrum (it's ok compared to Shangrila)-Yosemite

The star denotes routes I've been working on but have not gotten clean

I'm still looking for the crack that is nirvana

By thecornyman
From Oakland, CA
Dec 12, 2011
Damn all of you that listed great cracks that are out of reach for my ability.

By brian hess
From Logan, Utah
Feb 23, 2012
the glorious pitch 7
excuse station, reservior wall indian creek
steven carruthers memorial, sacred cow wall indian creek
mexican creek, little cottonwood cayon
gold rush, trout creek

By Ezekiel Thornton
From Akron, Ohio
Mar 6, 2012
Top of Castleton
Jtree has some good easier cracks..Lighting bolt crack

By Clifford Mallory
From Casper WY
Mar 6, 2012
Sunrise front range ridge
Center route-Cynicle Pinicle. In the Splat.

By American Dankster
From Chattanooga
Mar 6, 2012
Don't forget the Southeast. You know...like some roofs or multiple tiers. Add another dimension to your crack climbing.

By Kevin Volkening
Mar 22, 2012
Hands down, Shune's Buttress in Zion. Upper crux pitch is a lightning bolt splitter starting with yellow aliens and ending in a few moves of hands with 700 feet of clean air below.

By nelissam
Mar 23, 2012
Yosemite: Astroman, Rostrum, Steck-Salathe
Squamish: Grand wall, Freeway
Index: Godzilla, Japanese Gardens, Thin Fingers
Josh: The Flake
Suicide/Tahquiz: The Vampire

By John Korfmacher
From Fort Collins, CO
Mar 23, 2012
Hard to believe that nobody has mentioned The Line at Lover's Leap, or Pear Buttress at Lumpy...two great routes for us mere mortals.

I climbed The Line ('was dragged up' is more like it) on my very first day of climbing...there are probably still pieces of my skin up there somewhere.

By ben jammin
From Moab, UT
Mar 23, 2012
Kevin Volkening wrote:
Hands down, Shune's Buttress in Zion. Upper crux pitch is a lightning bolt splitter starting with yellow aliens and ending in a few moves of hands with 700 feet of clean air below.

+1, Try, like, 200 feet of splitter hands, preceded by 100 feet of splitter thin hands, preceded by 75 feet of splitter fingers... oh good gracious.

By ben jammin
From Moab, UT
Mar 23, 2012

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By Chris Duca
From Havertown, PA
Mar 23, 2012
Finishing up Elusive Dream at the King Wall.  Adir...
Jon Moen wrote:
White Knight and Drop, Fly, or Die at the Spider's Web, Adks, NY

Hell yes!

In addition to that, "Thin Fingers" and "Godzilla" at Index, and "Resistance" / "Persistence" at Lost City in the Gunks.

By Princess Mia
From Vail
Apr 6, 2012
Chillin' at City of Rocks
Veedauvoo - Horns Mother and Left Torpedo Tube
Indian Creek - Big Guy and Low Cholestrol
South Platte - Prairie Dog Crematorium
Potash Road - Offwidths are Beautiful

Yep all are off widths!!!!

By Keenan Waeschle
From Bozeman, MT
Apr 6, 2012
on top of the RNWF June 2012
Godzilla, P2 of City Park, and the stoutest 10d anywhere, Sloe Children. Every pitch is progressively harder and classic at the grade. Index is my favorite crag, can't wait to camp out there this summer.

If you don't mind cleaning moss there are plenty of classics that don't get done often enough.

By Trever W.
Apr 7, 2012
Near Mt. Challenger, Picket range.
Damn, there are some good ones on here. I gotta add the upper pitches of Outer Space in Leavenworth, WA. Splitter hand crack and enough chicken heads that your feet don't hurt by the end of it.

By Joe Huggins
From Grand Junction
Apr 7, 2012
Gotta say, the third pitch of Turfspreader, on the Cynical is a really gorgeous, perfect 5.8+ in a beautiful spot.

By dirtbag
From Bellingham, WA
Apr 7, 2012
i really enjoyed this drive to the tetons... can't...

.. At least it was the most beautiful crack I hav ever *seen* BY FAR!! Blows rostrum and nose outta the water. Never ending fingers in beautiful rock and location.

Even without touching the route absolutely no contest. Go take a look and u will agree. Unfortunately I was training for speed climbing and rapped then jugged the entire route LOL!

Favorite single pitch crack - nine lives@ cat wall (indian creek)

By matt davies
Apr 7, 2012
Strate Raza that hangs out in the Squire Lounge has got some sheeze that will blow your mentalz

By Ryan Williams
From London (sort of)
Apr 7, 2012
El Chorro
I thought I'd replied to this already, but I guess not.

Camhead has already listed the best cracks that I've fallen off of, and the rest of you have listed a lot that would be on my list. Indian Creek, The Needles and The Spiders Web in the ADKs are the best crack venues I've seen.

A few routes that are not on the list:

The Womb, Looking Glass
Shredded Wheat, Rumbling Bald
Burning Calves, New River Gorge
Spiderwand, New River Gorge
Rod Serling Crack, NRG
Welcome to Beauty, NRG
Pigs on the Wing, Indian Creek (too many at IC to list)
Fine Jade, Castle Valley
N. Face of Castleton, CValley
Hospital Corner, Lover's Leap
Tombstone Terror, LLeap

By Craig Randleman
From Phoenix, AZ
Jun 22, 2012
Tossing a back flip into the Colorado River in Par...
Upper pitches of Outer Space, Leavenworth, WA
The Line, Tahoe, CA
Hospital Corner, Tahoe, CA
Fisticuffs, JTree, CA
Funky Bolt, City of Rocks, ID


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