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Best coastal climbing along (or close to) Highway 1
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Apr 16, 2013
Trying a silly Dyno on Blockheads (12.b) BC, later...
NorCal!

Coming to see ya in about a week and need some beta on the best bouldering or sport spots along (or close to) Highway 1 (basically north or south of SF). Are there must visit locations? Guidebooks I should buy? Good camping? Better B&Bs?

My girlfriend and I will be going on a road trip to chill, climb, sip (wine/beer) and enjoy your beautiful countryside. I'd love deets on everything from great beaches, beatiful vistas, awesome crags/boulders, unbeatable accomodations and vineyards or breweries to visit.

Any and all help is very much appreciated. Can't wait to see ya!

Signed,
Colorado kid
Mike to the B
Joined May 2, 2008
72 points
Apr 16, 2013
north of SF - Mickey's Beach for hard sport and bouldering, Sonoma Coast(sunset boulders,salt point state park)for a variety of climbing.

but you must keep driving up to Humboldt for the real coastal climbing experience. go get lost up there.

lots of breweries inland in sonoma county, but fort bragg has a good one. too many wineries up here to suggest, but there are several out on the coast in sonoma and mendocino counties.
splitclimber
Joined Jan 22, 2007
49 points
Apr 16, 2013
Mt. Agassiz
This topic has been covered multiple times before.

Answer: San Luis Obispo.

End of thread?
Ryan Nevius
From The Range of Light
Joined Dec 29, 2010
783 points
Apr 16, 2013
About three and a half hours south of SF:

mountainproject.com/v/bishop-p...
FrankPS
From Atascadero, CA
Joined Nov 19, 2009
127 points
Apr 16, 2013
Trying a silly Dyno on Blockheads (12.b) BC, later...
Ryan ... links to threads where it had been covered? This thread has only begun!! Mike to the B
Joined May 2, 2008
72 points
Apr 16, 2013
First day of school
Slate Spire , Big Sur coast
Slate Spire , Big Sur coast


I'm not sure how you can beat Slate Spire and driving through Big Sur to get there ... It's not on the coast though , it's in the water !

mountainproject.com/v/slates-s...
Bring your scuba gear too
Bring your scuba gear too
vincent L.
From Redwood City
Joined Jan 1, 2005
617 points
Apr 16, 2013
How north of SF? Lost Rocks is hands down best coastal bouldering. Rad camping too. About 6 hours north of SF on the 101. Humboldt has killer limestone sport climbing too. In my experience, the climbing around SF is pretty limited...definitely not a destination. Castle Rock (Santa Cruz mountains, 1 hr. south of SF) has good sandstone bouldering tho. Lurker
Joined Nov 24, 2007
1,804 points
Apr 16, 2013
This boulder has a few fun problems on it. It's ju...
Keep driving north of Napa and stay in Calistoga, climb a few good sport and TR climbs at Mt St Helena, bike around Calistoga and do some wine tasting (they close at 4 or 5pm)and soak in hot springs or mud baths. Ravenswood has a tram up to their winery. Its a good tasting/winery experience. Check out the castles.

Stinson Beach has some good beach bouldering, as does Granite Creek, south of Carmel.

People are really liking the Pliny the elder, but its for hop-heads.
Chad Namolik
From Sequoia N.P., CA
Joined Jan 30, 2010
889 points
Apr 17, 2013
Lurker wrote:
How north of SF? Lost Rocks is hands down best coastal bouldering. Rad camping too. About 6 hours north of SF on the 101. Humboldt has killer limestone sport climbing too. In my experience, the climbing around SF is pretty limited...definitely not a destination. Castle Rock (Santa Cruz mountains, 1 hr. south of SF) has good sandstone bouldering tho.


+1 Lost Rocks is magical. The limestone, camping and breweries are also pretty cool. Weather might be a problem this time of year, I don't really know.
jellybean
Joined Feb 3, 2013
0 points
Apr 17, 2013
One of the most memorable places I've climbed is at called Dry Creek Sea Crag. I believe it's just north of Jenner. While the climbing isn't the greatest (most of the climbing within 2 hours or so of the Bay is mediocre at best, with a few exceptions) this spot is unbeatable in terms of location. There is camping 7 miles north of this crag at Fort Ross Reef (according to the old guidebook).

There is a new Bay Area guidebook that is supposed to be out, and for the wine country there is a small guidebook called Wine Country Rock by Chris Summit. This can be difficult to find outside of climbing gyms and shops in the north bay/wine country region. The Sea Crag is covered in the Black Bay area guidebook, but I'd skip that and get the newer one if it's available. Here it is...
jimthornburg.com/bay-area-rock...

The St. Helena suggestion isn't a bad one either. That crag offers moderate sport climbing in a very nice location. A good spot for a couple.

For lunch if you are in Yountville, check out Adhoc BBQ.
It's only open for lunch and I recommend the ribs. I cook a lot of ribs myself, these are better than anything I can make. Worth it.
yelp.com/biz/addendum-yountvil...
bergbryce
From California
Joined Aug 23, 2009
112 points
Apr 17, 2013
Find these and enjoy some new routes!
Promontory and Footsteps . . . Matthias Holladay
From Durango, Colorado
Joined Jul 8, 2007
4,774 points
Apr 17, 2013
Chad_N wrote:
People are really liking the Pliny the elder, but its for hop-heads.

Got to find the stuff first. That right there is a much stouter quest than finding good climbing along Hwy. 1.
Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
Joined Nov 9, 2007
137 points
Apr 18, 2013
I would completely agree with Calistoga / St. Helena suggestion. Puts you in close proximity to world class wineries and you can drive up the hill a few minutes on 29 and be climbing quickly. The climbing is not spectacular but Table Scraps is an easy hike, easy TR setup and has easy to moderate routes in an awesome setting. As for true coastal, also agree with the Lost Rocks comment if you head that far north. Some of the best bouldering in NorCal and the atmosphere / environment is amazing. Rough
Joined Oct 21, 2004
1,690 points


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