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By Jared Garfield
Feb 4, 2013
Romancing the Stone
climbing.com/route/climbervill...

FLAG
By Jon O'Brien
From Nevada
Feb 4, 2013
how far are smith and trout creek from downtown bend? any idea of the population of bend? any idea if there are any colleges or universities? any idea how many high schools there are there?


thanks

p.s. notice how the mormons won't leave the mormon thing alone, they'll beat that dead horse over and over even though more than one has already addressed the statements fully: living there is the same insipid, overwhelming, overbearing experience in my opinion... it is like all of them are that annoying parent that thinks their kid is special and awesome and that whatever they do you should do too... more importantly and pertinent: it is not a year-round climbing town and i think that's what we're trying to pin down here...

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By zenetopia
Feb 4, 2013
The SLC always gets a bad rap. Salt Lake city (proper) actually has more non-mormons than mormons. It becomes really bad when you start etching your way away from the city...West Jordon, South Jordon, Sandy ect... SLC has great art (if you know where to look) & a great music scene. The outdoor culture, especially in places like the Avenues & Sugarhouse, is great...Don't let people who think they 'know' about the mormon & utah culture disuade you from a great city...

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By camhead
From Vandalia, Appalachia
Feb 4, 2013
You stay away from mah pig!
Austin Baird wrote:
Steve understates how big of a problem we Mormons are in Salt Lake. "Welcome to the Neighborhood" plates of cookies\banana bread are ubiquitous. You'll never be able to get your car stuck in a snowdrift for longer than 10 minutes before some Mormon hellbent on earning his way into heaven stops to help push you out. And don't even get me started on the smug, pious way EVERYONE insists on holding a door open for you. It's insulting. Seriously though - I'm not from Utah and I'm not a big fan of Mormon culture (although I'm an active Mormon myself), but SLC isn't bad at all. Even if I weren't Mormon I'd still enjoy living here.


Have you heard why Mormons only lock their cars in August? Because otherwise their neighbors would fill them with zucchini.

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By erik wellborn
From manitou springs
Feb 4, 2013
Top of Bridalveil, feelin good
Im going to throw in Manitou and westside Colorado Springs, mostly because I enjoy the commentary from the euro-hatchback, prana wearing, urban hipster crowd slag what a horrible, provincial, plebian, republican, backwater the area is.

Some truth to that, urban culture is pretty lacking compared to Denver-Boulder. But, there is year round rock climbing at Turkey, Shelf, hidden crags on Pikes Peak, quality mixed and ice, and uncrowded mountain biking-running trails. Mexican food and local breweries 'taint bad either.

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By JCM
From Seattle, WA
Feb 15, 2013
Jon O'Brien wrote:
any idea of the population of bend? any idea if there are any colleges or universities? any idea how many high schools there are there?


city-data.com/city/Bend-Oregon...

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By worth russell
From Brooklyn, NY
Feb 15, 2013
Keene ny? Sorry I grew up in the area and it would be a horror show finding work that pays. It's freezing from the end of oct through march. Then you get heavy rains and bugs. The climbing is good but if I were making any suggestion for ny I would say New Paltz NY. They have great climbing easy access and an actual social scene. Stay away from NY if you wanna climb tons

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By Norman Bradley
From Joshua Tree
Feb 15, 2013
Check out SoCal. The weather is usually dry and you can plan on climbing most any day you have off of work. Joshua Tree, Thaquitz, Suicide and count less sport climbing and bouldering areas near by. Lot of peps but not so many climber per capita. If you can climb during the week you may not see anyone else on the rock. Also the beach is fairly close if you surf. Down side not much ice

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By Emmett Lyman
From Washington, DC
Aug 4, 2013
Personal photo
nherment wrote:
Chamonix, France.


+1 We made our first pilgrimage last month, and all I want to do is find a way to stay there.

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By The Blueprint Part Dank
From FEMA Region VIII
Aug 5, 2013
And then you throw for a Gaston, like seriously guys. I onsighted the shit out of Levi's Stadium
Corona wrote:
"But Chattanooga is just so far from big multi-pitch," said no one in Tennessee ever.


I said it, and then I moved to WA then CO. I still,maintain that if you just want to rock climb, Chattanooga is hard, of not impossible to beat. But NC, while awesoe, isn't a substitute for places like Eldo, Lumpy, RMNP or The Cascades.

And technically, Chattanooga has multipitch, a couple in Suck Creek Canyon and North Chick Creek. But it's lackluster.

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By Duc Ong
From Honolulu, Hawaii
Mar 25, 2014
I'm going to resurrect this thread again, with a slight twist. I'm mostly interested in bouldering and single-pitch sport. Which town would be best for access for after work climbing, in terms of short drive and short approach? I'm considering Boulder and San Diego. I'm currently living in Honolulu, so any where else would be cheaper for cost of living, but this is a pretty important factor for me, since I'm a teacher so I don't think I'll be making very much.

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By Brent Larsen
From Spearfish, SD
Mar 25, 2014
EBM, 5.11a <br />Sunshine Wall, Spearfish Canyon. <br />South Dakota.
Rapid City, South Dakota is the most overlooked, under-rated climbing city in America. It has it all within a short distance. The only downside is all the fat chicks.

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By John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Mar 25, 2014
Duc Ong wrote:
I'm going to resurrect this thread again, with a slight twist. I'm mostly interested in bouldering and single-pitch sport. Which town would be best for access for after work climbing, in terms of short drive and short approach? I'm considering Boulder and San Diego. I'm currently living in Honolulu, so any where else would be cheaper for cost of living, but this is a pretty important factor for me, since I'm a teacher so I don't think I'll be making very much.


Considering the size of the bouldering guidebook and the fact that probably a couple hundred new problems have gone up each year since, i'd say Vegas. Kraft is literally 5 minutes from the trailhead which is 5 minutes from the edge of town (a town with much less traffic than san diego, and considerably less expensive than Boulder or SD).

there's also plenty of single pitch sport both established and being developed at whatever grade you climb on both sandstone and limestone. both are very close to the car.

there's also a pretty tight knit group of teachers that climb after work every wednesday- or at least they used to. i'm sure they still do. either way, there's alot of teachers in town that love to climb.

FLAG
By John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Mar 25, 2014
Duc Ong wrote:
I'm going to resurrect this thread again, with a slight twist. I'm mostly interested in bouldering and single-pitch sport. Which town would be best for access for after work climbing, in terms of short drive and short approach? I'm considering Boulder and San Diego. I'm currently living in Honolulu, so any where else would be cheaper for cost of living, but this is a pretty important factor for me, since I'm a teacher so I don't think I'll be making very much.


Considering the size of the bouldering guidebook and the fact that probably a couple hundred new problems have gone up each year since, i'd say Vegas. Kraft is literally 5 minutes from the trailhead which is 5 minutes from the edge of town (a town with much less traffic than san diego, and considerably less expensive than Boulder or SD).

there's also plenty of single pitch sport both established and being developed at whatever grade you climb on both sandstone and limestone. both are very close to the car.

there's also a pretty tight knit group of teachers that climb after work every wednesday- or at least they used to. i'm sure they still do. either way, there's alot of teachers in town that love to climb.

FLAG
By Duc Ong
From Honolulu, Hawaii
Mar 25, 2014
Thanks for the replies! Vegas is in the running for me, but I'm just wondering how the summer heat would be in terms of climbing conditions.

FLAG
By iceman777
From Colorado Springs
Mar 25, 2014
0
LV is a furnace in the summer. Turned down a great job out there just for this fact .

FLAG
 
By iceman777
From Colorado Springs
Mar 25, 2014
0
LV is a furnace in the summer. Turned down a great job out there just for this fact .

FLAG
By Chris Massey
Mar 25, 2014
North Carolina - Nothing to see here. Dont bother.

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By David A
From Boulder, CO
Mar 25, 2014
Hanging out after climbing a route in Eldo on a cold day.
Brent Larsen wrote:
Rapid City, South Dakota is the most overlooked, under-rated climbing city in America. It has it all within a short distance. The only downside is all the fat chicks.


+100000000000000000

Rapid gets a bad rap because people hear South Dakota and immediately think hick/bumf*ck/frozen wasteland. But seriously...all the Black Hills which contain a lifetime of awesome climbing in their own right...within an hour, Devils Tower about 2 hours, and the bigger ranges in Montana and Wyoming not too much further. All without major inconveniences and annoyances of larger metro cities. Would move to Rapid instantly if given the chance. Only downside...far from the desert.

FLAG
By Lewisd_530
From South Lake Tahoe, California
Mar 25, 2014
South lake Tahoe, CA, surprisingly cheap rent and 300+days of sunshine. no surprise summer thunderstorms to worry about. Even in the winter you drive to Phanton spires or sugarloaf, both within 45 min and usually snow free.

FLAG
By Dave Cummings
From Grand Junction, CO
Mar 25, 2014
me on my redpoint
Grand Junction CO is great as a climbing town. Tons of local climbing in unaweep canyon and in the national monument. Moab, Rifle, and Ouray are all 90 min away so that is amazing and having Salt Lake City and Denver only 4 hours away is great. Vegas and Zion only 6-8 hours. GJ has become my home and I coudln't be more psyched on this place. Day trip to indian creek tomorrow!

FLAG
By John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Mar 25, 2014
Duc Ong wrote:
Thanks for the replies! Vegas is in the running for me, but I'm just wondering how the summer heat would be in terms of climbing conditions.


Mt Charleston is at 8000' and there is some good bouldering and stupid amounts of sport climbing up there thats nice enough. I'm not a big fan of limestone, but i still get to be outside and climbing on rock. I consider it training season for the fall. There's usually about 10-14 days a year that are so hot that Charleston is greasy and not much fun. Otherwise, Charleston is in season March - October, Red Rock is in season from late Sept to late May.

You're also 3hrs from the east side of the Sierra. 3hrs from Jtree. 4hrs from Priest Draw. Basically if you're willing to drive 6hrs, you can be just about anywhere in Utah, Nevada, California, or Arizona for climbing.

Sure summer is hot- its the off season for sure. But whatever, everywhere has an off season- and in the case of too warm, you can still climb. I climb 50 weeks a year in Las Vegas. 48 of them are in comfortable to awesome temperatures and conditions.

FLAG
By JCM
From Seattle, WA
Mar 25, 2014
John Wilder wrote:
Mt Charleston is at 8000' and there is some good bouldering and stupid amounts of sport climbing up there thats nice enough. I'm not a big fan of limestone, but i still get to be outside and climbing on rock. I consider it training season for the fall. There's usually about 10-14 days a year that are so hot that Charleston is greasy and not much fun. Otherwise, Charleston is in season March - October, Red Rock is in season from late Sept to late May. You're also 3hrs from the east side of the Sierra. 3hrs from Jtree. 4hrs from Priest Draw. Basically if you're willing to drive 6hrs, you can be just about anywhere in Utah, Nevada, California, or Arizona for climbing. Sure summer is hot- its the off season for sure. But whatever, everywhere has an off season- and in the case of too warm, you can still climb. I climb 50 weeks a year in Las Vegas. 48 of them are in comfortable to awesome temperatures and conditions.


I just found out that I might be moving to Vegas for a job this summer. Showing up in Vegas in late May would be rough, but I like pocketed limestone, so Charleston should keep me occupied. I've climbed at Charleston mid-September, and thought it was amazing...belaying in a sweatshirt even when it was 105 degrees in Vegas. But how is mid-summer? Aside from those 10-14 hottest days, what is it like? Is it, like, manageably cool such that you won't get heatstroke, or is it actually good conditions for trying hard sport climbs? Just curious.


One other important question remains:

How's the AC at RRCC?

FLAG
By Steve Jones
Mar 25, 2014
on belay
I've lived in a lot of the places mentioned here. San Diego was the worst for climbing. Chattanooga was excellent. Chamonix would be at the top of my list if money were no object.

If you can live below your means, and like to travel, you can satisfy everything on your list. I live in Fayetteville, WV (New River Gorge). Very low cost of living, 3000 or so routes within 20 minutes of the house, fabulous white water, OK mountain biking, even some skiing in the winter. We climb every month of the year. Ski when it snows and paddle when it rains. The Red River Gorge is not that far away. About the same distance to North Carolina, which has multi-pitch. You'll still miss the mountains, so ability to travel is key. Every year, we go out West and/or to the Alps.

For me, people ultimately make the place. The community here is great - friendly, helpful, no big egos. The other day, a guy stopped us, got out of his truck in the rain, crawled under our car and dislodged a tree branch, waved, got back in his car and left. That is typical social behavior here. Compare it to Boulder. You know what I mean.

It never feels crowded here - there are a lot more outdoor resources than people who use them. So there is no competition for space. The exception is rafting season on the New and Gauley rivers. In the places where we usually mountain bike, we have not seen another biker or hiker in 5 years.

The negatives: no mountains (so we travel a fair amount), professional jobs (it's not a problem if you're in healthcare or can work on-line), the environment is pretty trashed, and the schools are generally poor but with a few exceptionally good teachers. There are environmental groups, such as PAN (Plateau Action Network), that are making it better. We pick up litter on the trails to the climbing areas. I know its going to come back, but its clean in that moment. So we just rest in that moment.

FLAG
 
By John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Mar 25, 2014
Locals deal with it- its a bit warm, temps are usually in the 70s to 80s in the shade, so whatever that means for you. Most hard sends are in the shoulder seasons when temps are cooler, but I've seen Pringle and the boys working hard 5.14 in July.

Generally, summer temps in Vegas are between 100-110 in the city, which usually puts the mountain temps at 75-85 in the shade. The temps you experienced in mid-Sept were much warmer than you'll experience in late May (usually). The thermostat usually tips over 100 sometime in early June, staying there consistently toward the middle of the month. July/Aug is the worst of it.

The 10-14 days it goes over 110 in the Valley puts Charleston in the 90s. Its still climbable, but you gotta want it. I dont want it that bad- RRCC has ridiculous a/c (its kept in the 60s in the summer), so i'm happy to train there for the worst of the summer heat.

If you like long, moderate trad climbs, you can climb in the canyons in the shade for most of the summer. There are some tricks to staying cool and hydrated, and harder stuff is just too greasy, but 5.fun is totally doable too.

I always find people's fear of the heat somewhat silly. Being hot is so much nicer than being cold. Then again, I'm a desert rat through and through.

FLAG


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