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best bouldering in the u.s.

Original Post
scott e. tarrant · · Fort Collins · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 250

looking to gather opinions on the best bouldering in the country. if interested in helping create this list, please list your top 3 areas and the top 3 problems at each area.

i believe you can email me directly if you would like to add more areas / problems and or expand on your reasons for your choices. if that does not work, feel free to contact me at 970.309.4003. otherwise, simply let me/us know that slag heap x (CO) is the best area and little chipper (v8), shaking hands with shorty (v11) & giggle puss (v2)...

thanks,

scott

Jason Brasfield · · Las Vegas · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 0

Are you putting together a bouldering guide for the US? My favorite places I've been to are Bishop, Squamish (does that even count?), Klamath Beach, as for best problems in those areas too many to list

Tom Hanson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 950

The best bouldering in the US is definitely to be found at Castlewood Canyon.
If you don't believe it, just check out this picture:

mountainproject.com/v/color…

scott e. tarrant · · Fort Collins · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 250

jason,
do not know exactly where this will lead. it began as a discussion with a friend over a camp fire and my curiosity for these answers has become near obsessive. i am not a boulderer, other than bouldering out of necessity/fun...have never considered making a road trip to boulder, but understand that many people do. if you ask any of my contemporaries to name the same for free climbing areas you will see many of the same routes appear on everyone's route lists. so in part my question is more, what is the bouldering communities astroman? naked edge, wisdom, vertigo, rostrum, etc.

please don't hesitate to list as many as possible (areas and problems)!

thanks,

scott

Ladd Raine · · Plymouth, NH · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 5,505

Pawtuckaway State Park in New Hampshire has some really quality problems on awesome rock and at an accessible grade too!

V0 Kappa Delta
V2 General Lee,The Whip
V3 Hobbit Hole,Storm Pockets,Bones to Bits
V4 Overlooked,Welcome Crack
V6 Ride the Lightning,Boulder X,F**k The Method

At The Trapps there are many classic boulder problems right on the carriage road that bring climbers from all around. Unfortunaly none are added on this site, and I've never knoen the names of many of them. The Buddha Boulder has awesome lines on it though.

Also, ummmm at Hueco Tanks I believe there are a few classic lines...

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 21,711

Coopers Rock, WV. American grit!

logan johnson · · West Copper, Co · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 315

Hmmm...
The best areas (that I have been to):
Joe's (ut)
Carer Lake(co)
Triassic (ut)
But for the best problems:
Hagans Wall(V5) Flagstaff (CO)
Jaws (V3) Indy Pass (CO)
Minturn Mile (V6) Red Cliff (CO) Note this area is not worth the drive from the front range:)
The Crackhouse (V8?) Moab

Curt Shannon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 5

Hueco.

Pretty much pick any three problems--it's that good.

Curt

Lee Smith · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2003 · Points: 1,545

I gotta agree with T Hanson, Little Devil is the best boulder problem of all time, in the world, bar none. Nuff said.

Jason Brasfield · · Las Vegas · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 0

Tom I'm going to have to agree with you little devil is one of the most amazing lines I've ever seen.

Marc H · · Longmont, CO · Joined May 2007 · Points: 265

Im not much of a boulderer, but Moonstone (book rated V6; easier for shorter people, IMO) is a beautiful line.

It's located in Groom Creek outside Prescott, AZ. Super close, highly concentrated granite boulders at about 6,000 ft (or maybe a little higher). Great it the summer, great in the winter. Cool problems from V0- (that I can personally testify to) to the double digit range (that I can't personally testify to).

Overall, it's a spectacular area. Just clean up your shit and remove your tick marks, please, and the yearly clean-up will involve that much more beer-drinking!!

--Marc

Rick Shull · · Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV · Joined Sep 2006 · Points: 3,015

Anyplace outside where the temps are right, it's not too short, not too tall, and the holds aren't breaking off. Some good scenery and a friend or 3 makes the day.

cstorms · · North Bend, OR · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 1,170

red cliff is definitely worth the drive from the front range...although it would be smart to camp or stay out there...the kluttergarden has many awesome granite boulders in an aspen forest, one of my favorite places to boulder in colorado....not best in us by any means tho

Jimn Seiler · · North Platte, NE · Joined May 2004 · Points: 440

Horsetooth Reservoir, Torture Chamber Traverse, The Eliminator, The Cat's Eye.

Luke Hanley · · Boulder, CO · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 55

Little Rock City, Rocktown, HP40...the weather might not be great year round, but try climbing in Hueco in july, or Squamish in April...

Eric D · · Gnarnia · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 235

Castle Rock, CA. Perfect boulders with perfect top outs. Lots of slopers on high friction rock.

Nick Stayner · · Wymont Kingdom · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 2,315

I suspect if there were more southeastern climbers on this website, there would be a resounding response for that area. Amazing stuff here in the Boone, NC area. Great variety and number of problems. Further south Little Rock City near Chattanooga is awesome! Also, HP40 and Rocktown sound awesome.

Jeff Mekolites · · Atlanta, GA · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 5,250

S.E. representin'

Ever heard of the TRIPLE CROWN Bouldering Comp...they don't call it the triple crown for nothin' HP 40, LRC (Stone Fort), Hound Ears, Rock Town...yeah come on! And Atlanta has Boat Rock!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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