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Best Biner For Racking Nuts?

Original Post
Brandon Groza · · Bend, OR · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 270

I've settled on bentgates...mainly bc they seem to hold the nuts well and are easy to flip and re-rack. Tried wiregates but found the spring tension too weak.

Thoughts?

Robert Buswold · · Northglenn, CO · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 80

I like Ovals because they have plenty of room for lots of nuts.

wankel7 · · Indiana · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 10

Whatever you settle on keylock is the only way to go....getting the wire of the nut stuck on the nose of the biner isn't fun.

media.rei.com/media/198490.jpg (

I use these the Mammut Element Key Lock.
rei.com/product/760240/mamm…

J.B. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 150

I like ovals and they like my nuts too

Bapgar 1 · · Out of the Loop · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 90

One that the gate stays closed.

OReid · · Denver, CO · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 35

Wild Country Helium: campsaver.com/helium-clean-…

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115

Racking nuts is actually the one time I prefer a non-keylock. Having the hook at the nose of the biner has, on many occasions, saved be from dropping a nut by having ti slide off of the biner.

I like the BD ovalwires.

Phil Lauffen · · Innsbruck, AT · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 3,098

DMM shield

Matt N · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 415

BD ovalwire and OP Doval. The Doval is a little more compact and lighter.

How is everyone racking theirs? Full set per; small-med separate; etc?

Bud Martin · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 380

Petzl Owall, easy choice.

Jonathan Williams · · Minneapolis · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 510

Petzl Spirit. Micros on one, the rest on the other.

Sam Stephens · · PORTLAND, OR · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 1,090

BD Ovalwire

Greg Kuchyt · · Richmond, VT · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 941

I'm with Bud, the Petzl Owall hands down. But in general a keylock nose oval is the way to go as others have said. If you don't like the price, check out DMM or Mad Rock's (I use this for RPs and it's great) keylock oval offerings.

DannyUncanny · · Vancouver · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 100

I would go Ovalwire for easy of use or Nano for lightweight.

Chris D · · the couch · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 2,230

The BD Ovals are heavy, but they make selecting a nut and getting it from the biner very easy. Haven't tried other ovals, but i'm sure they're also good.

Ovals work better than any other shape I've tried.

Kevin DeWeese · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 981

DMM Ovals are the best i've found.

They're a bit bigger than bd ovals and are keynose to boot. I use them for my nuts and pins.

DMM Oval

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,655

My bail biner, whatever that may be. In the end I can strip all the nuts off of it onto a spare or whatever and use it, but meanwhile I have a bail biner with me.

JaredG · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 17

Haven't trad climbed a ton, but have them on a wire gate oval. I've grown accustomed to the asymmetric biners on quickdraws, so I actually find ovals a little annoying because I can't tell at a glance or by feel which way the gate opens.

Nick Bouley · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 0

From what trad climbing I've done, I've used ovals. There's plenty of room, you can rotate the biner in your hand pretty easy to get at whichever nut you want. As to the forgetting which side the biner opens on, if you clip your gear on facing the same way everytime there's no issue with that whatsoever.

Ryan Kelly · · work. · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 2,960
Greg Kuchyt wrote:I'm with Bud, the Petzl Owall hands down.
The Owall is the heaviest damn biner that I've ever felt and it's nothing more than an overpriced oval with a keylock and a lot of deadweight. I keep one on hand when in bear country in-case I need to defend myself.
NKunstek · · Santa Barbara, CA · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 5
kevin deweese wrote:DMM Ovals are the best i've found. They're a bit bigger than bd ovals and are keynose to boot. I use them for my nuts and pins.
+1
Sweet for an aid'n setup as well.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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