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Best Biner For Racking Nuts?
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By Brandon Groza
From Bend, OR
Sep 12, 2011
Chomp. Summer climbing in RMNP.

I've settled on bentgates...mainly bc they seem to hold the nuts well and are easy to flip and re-rack. Tried wiregates but found the spring tension too weak.

Thoughts?


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By Robert Buswold
From Longmont, CO
Sep 13, 2011
Clear Creek Canyon, Capitalist Crag

I like Ovals because they have plenty of room for lots of nuts.


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By wankel7
From Indiana
Sep 13, 2011

Whatever you settle on keylock is the only way to go....getting the wire of the nut stuck on the nose of the biner isn't fun.

media.rei.com/media/198490.jpg (

I use these the Mammut Element Key Lock.
www.rei.com/product/760240/mammut-element-key-lock-carabiner


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By J.J
Sep 13, 2011

I like ovals and they like my nuts too


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By Brent Apgar
From Out of the Loop
Sep 13, 2011
Me and Spearhead

One that the gate stays closed.


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By OReid
From Denver, CO
Sep 13, 2011
preparing to rap over a crevasse; Mt. Waddington, Bravo Glacier Route

Wild Country Helium: www.campsaver.com/helium-clean-wire-carabiner


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By JCM
From Henderson, NV
Sep 13, 2011

Racking nuts is actually the one time I prefer a non-keylock. Having the hook at the nose of the biner has, on many occasions, saved be from dropping a nut by having ti slide off of the biner.

I like the BD ovalwires.


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By Phil Lauffen
From The Bubble
Sep 13, 2011
RMNP skiing. Photo by Nodin de Saillan

DMM shield


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By Matt N
From Santa Barbara, CA
Sep 13, 2011
OTL

BD ovalwire and OP Doval. The Doval is a little more compact and lighter.

How is everyone racking theirs? Full set per; small-med separate; etc?


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By Bud Martin
From Bozeman, MT
Sep 13, 2011

Petzl Owall, easy choice.


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By Jonathan Williams
From Palo Alto, CA
Sep 13, 2011
Me.

Petzl Spirit. Micros on one, the rest on the other.


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By Sam Stephens
Sep 13, 2011
Top half of Melifluous

BD Ovalwire


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By Greg Kuchyt
Sep 13, 2011
Greenhorn - Solar Collector Wall - RRG, KY

I'm with Bud, the Petzl Owall hands down. But in general a keylock nose oval is the way to go as others have said. If you don't like the price, check out DMM or Mad Rock's (I use this for RPs and it's great) keylock oval offerings.


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By DannyUncanny
From Vancouver
Sep 13, 2011

I would go Ovalwire for easy of use or Nano for lightweight.


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By Chris D
From the couch
Sep 13, 2011
Sign near the Third Flatiron

The BD Ovals are heavy, but they make selecting a nut and getting it from the biner very easy. Haven't tried other ovals, but i'm sure they're also good.

Ovals work better than any other shape I've tried.


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By kevin deweese
From walnut creek, ca
Sep 13, 2011
don't throw rocks

DMM Ovals are the best i've found.

They're a bit bigger than bd ovals and are keynose to boot. I use them for my nuts and pins.

DMM Oval
DMM Oval


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By Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Sep 13, 2011
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "Alan Nelson's Bulging Belly" (5.10, X) on the Lost and Found Flatiron. Belayer is Mark Ruocco. Photo by Bill Wright, 10/06.

My bail biner, whatever that may be. In the end I can strip all the nuts off of it onto a spare or whatever and use it, but meanwhile I have a bail biner with me.


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By JaredG
From Tucson, AZ
Sep 13, 2011

Haven't trad climbed a ton, but have them on a wire gate oval. I've grown accustomed to the asymmetric biners on quickdraws, so I actually find ovals a little annoying because I can't tell at a glance or by feel which way the gate opens.


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By Nick Bouley
Sep 13, 2011

From what trad climbing I've done, I've used ovals. There's plenty of room, you can rotate the biner in your hand pretty easy to get at whichever nut you want. As to the forgetting which side the biner opens on, if you clip your gear on facing the same way everytime there's no issue with that whatsoever.


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By Ryan Kelly
From work.
Sep 13, 2011
My kinda simian

Greg Kuchyt wrote:
I'm with Bud, the Petzl Owall hands down.


The Owall is the heaviest damn biner that I've ever felt and it's nothing more than an overpriced oval with a keylock and a lot of deadweight. I keep one on hand when in bear country in-case I need to defend myself.


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By NKunstek
From Santa Barbara, CA
Sep 13, 2011
Pitch three of Land of the Lost (WI4) Hylite Cyn. Montana

kevin deweese wrote:
DMM Ovals are the best i've found. They're a bit bigger than bd ovals and are keynose to boot. I use them for my nuts and pins.


+1
Sweet for an aid'n setup as well.


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By JaredG
From Tucson, AZ
Sep 13, 2011

Nick Bouley wrote:
From what trad climbing I've done, I've used ovals. There's plenty of room, you can rotate the biner in your hand pretty easy to get at whichever nut you want. As to the forgetting which side the biner opens on, if you clip your gear on facing the same way everytime there's no issue with that whatsoever.


Good point. I usually climb scared, though. When I'm sketched out above a poorly-placed cam with a mouth full of nut wires, trying 3 different nuts before I find one that fits, I sometimes forget which side of the biner is which.


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By ZANE
From Cleveland, OH
Sep 13, 2011

I use the wire oval that came with my BD nuts. I actually bought a proton solid gate that was keylock obviously, due to some peoples suggestions.

This was a few months ago, and after dropping a nut here and there due to the change, and then missing a clip back onto my harness (Gumby alert) I switched back to the wire oval.


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By Princess Mia
From Vail
Sep 13, 2011
Chillin' at City of Rocks

Oval.......


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By Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Sep 13, 2011
Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Peak.

I use a Umert Leadmaster Mark IV oval with the neon yellow finish.


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By Paul Irby
From moab, ut
Sep 13, 2011
chocolate drops and the land of standing rocks

you guys are putting way too much thought into this.


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