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best beginner trad climbs on lemmon?

Original Post
Amber Lee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 15

I am looking for a good beginner trad route to get my feet wet on, suggestions?

kpbo · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined May 2008 · Points: 30

It's been awhile, but Agatha Christie (Direct) on the North Fin, (5.8) might be a good start?

RyanJohnson · · Tucson, Arizona · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 396
Rabbit Tracks 5.6/7 at Turret Rock is great for placing gear. Jambrosia 5.8 is nearby and is also really good. Same goes for Caterpiller Corner 5.8.
Hendrixson · · Littleton, CO · Joined Sep 2007 · Points: 3,290

Two ideas:

1) Gain confidence in your pieces by weighting and even falling on them when in safe situations. Almost aid climb.

2) Consider starting on short mixed routes as opposed to long pure trad lines. This can limit the consequences of botched gear and allow you to place lots of gear within a short distance.

While it is still a bit warm you might consider Mr. Meanor Wall and Alcatraz Wall.

My early trad routes were: If We Bolt It They Won't Come, Unknown 5.6, R-1,and R-3.

Seth11 · · Oracle · Joined May 2015 · Points: 5

Black Quacker 4 pitch 5.7, One of my favorite Summit climbs. There is a cool 5.6 trad I used to rope solo on the face of the arête at Left Hand Wall.
I am planning to start going out to The Home Stead(Sport Climbing) for the season.
If you need a belay let me know.
Fair Winds!

Paul Zander · · Bern, CH · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 739

safe cracker (the 5.6 one) at Prison Camp

Nick Henscheid · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 615
Black Quacker, Slippery When Wet and Standard Route are good first trad multi-pitch, but you better make sure you have sport multi-pitch experience (lots of good 2 pitch easy sport on Lemmon), and know how to build a good gear anchor first. I would recommend Safe Cracker, Petty Theft, Dragon's Arete, and George's Buttress as good single pitch routes with bolted anchors. Another good choice might be to get on a mostly bolted multipitch route in the Stronghold like Ewephoria or Peacemaker (higher commitment level there). Also, get a good trad book like Climbing Anchors and practice everything at the base of a cliff, preferably with an expert nearby to inspect.
j mo · · n az · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 1,185

Honestly drive to oak creek overlook. There are pantloads of moderates, way easier to learn there than Lemmon or stronghold. But if you can't, take comfort that if you like gear climbs here you'll be ok anywhere. Just be careful. Don't run it out to be cool.

Neil L · · Casper, wy · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 1

I suggest checking out chimney rock, good to start on, and all around good.

New Hampshire Mike · · Tucson,az · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 0

While my first lead was on safe cracker at prison camp I would also suggest setting up a TR on agatha Christie direct and dialing in your gear placements on top rope then leading when you feel comfortable. Super fun route

Christian RodaoBack · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 1,486

Mt Lemmon trad isn't a bunch of obvious, splitter cracks. It's mostly trad-protected face and corner climbing.

Wherever you go, I would try to go with someone who already knows the line, b/c one of the most common beginner mistakes is to go off-route into chossy/unprotectable/significantly-harder territory.

I've seen even experienced trad leaders about to miss the small dihedral on Agatha Christie and head left towards some ugly-looking choss.

The first time I tried Hai Karate, I didn't realize I had to first go diagonal left, then back diagonal right. I ended up on some 10+ PG-13/R instead of the 5.7/5.8 I was planning on. Thankfully, I already had enough experience from sport climbing to climb my way out of the situation and back on to the correct line without falling on my (probably marginal) gear.

Justin Headley · · Tucson · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 622

Stay away from Hai Karate. Even if you go up the correct way, it's IMO kind of a crummy route. Agatha Christie can be easily toproped and mock-led. Takes gear so well, too. You can put your entire rack in that climb. There is one section that is kind of steep and tricky so you might not want to go for the onsight. Safe Cracker and Petty Theft at Prison Camp are good. Rabbit Tracks at Windy Point is good as well. Too bad it's such a pain to get to!

Geir www.ToofastTopos.com · · Tucson/DMR · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 2,751

Generally speaking gear can be quite finicky on Mount Lemmon. Be very careful when learning to trad climb here as many of the placements require some finesse to get them in well.

Steven Groetken · · Durango, CO · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 390

I remember having some fun at green slabs. Several 5.7s. Make sure to pull test your cams, they can pop right out even if it looks secure. Gneiss is finicky with placements. Also, if you haven't done Hitchcock pinnacle, (beta warning!!!) bring a #2 for the small crack and a draw to clip the bolt. The 5.7 starts on the platform, and you could move left for a 5.8 move or two if memory serves correct.. Anything Geir says is verbal gold btw.

Jonas Salk · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 10

Fun, easy, 2 minute approach...
mountainproject.com/v/tradi…

Then you can head over to Green Slabs.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Arizona & New Mexico
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