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best AZ climbing areas? Advice, please
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By richard aiken
Jan 30, 2014

for a road trip, which are the best climbing areas in AZ ?

I'd like just the places which are as good as Red Rock or Jtree, if there are any. Good rock (no choss, safe approaches, good weather in Feb and March.

Sport or trad, no bouldering.

I'm looking for up to 5.10s, not harder and prefer 1-3 pitches, not longer.

thanks!


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By RyanWBaker
Jan 30, 2014

waterfall area, oak creek canyon outside sedona. basalt cracks, over 115 routes 5.10-5.12, weather is perfect there now.


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By Joe Cayer
From Mesa, Az
Jan 30, 2014
Torchraker!!

Richard, Depending on the area of Az, there's a lot here to choose from.
Phoenix and north area...
mountainproject.com/v/queen-creek-canyon/105788089
mountainproject.com/v/homestead/105801318
mountainproject.com/v/mcdowell-mountains/105787825
mountainproject.com/v/isolation-canyon/105816083
mountainproject.com/v/jacks-canyon/105799277

Tucson and south...
mountainproject.com/v/mount-lemmon-santa-catalina-mountains/>>>
mountainproject.com/v/cochise-stronghold/105738034

Just suggestions of some of my favorite areas...


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By K-Tanz
Jan 30, 2014
Leading up pitch 2 of Moby Dick, Cochise Stronghold, AZ

Gorgeous multipitch domes (mostly trad but a few sport multipitch) can be found at the Cochise Stronghold. Lots in that grade range. www.mountainproject.com/v/cochise-stronghold/105738034 . It has been featured in more than a few magazine articles. Kinda like J-Tree but minus the crowds and with a higher concentration of longer routes. The Kerry Guide is up online.

Isolation canyon is a gem for single pitch trad and sport with lots at the grade you want. Mt. Lemmon is probably the best option if you want a mix of sport and trad single and multi pitch. The bottom of the mountain (milagrosa)has awesome T shirt temps right now and if you want some long stuff you can throw on a jacket and do that too. Literally thousands of routes to be found and the guide can be bought in Tucson or Phoenix.


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By KevinD
From Scottsdale, AZ
Jan 30, 2014

Granite mountain near prescott

The ovelook near flag has awesome single pitch moderate trad


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By richard aiken
Jan 30, 2014

thanks, everyone, for the good info
Richard


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By Colonel Mustard
From Reno, NV
Jan 30, 2014
Colonel Mustard

K-Tanz is on the money. Isolation Canyon will satisfy trad/sport yens in a supremely Arizona locale and has multi pitch to boot. Cochise is known as J Tree for adults. Jacks Canyon will satisfy limestone clipping needs and has a very chill camping situation.


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By Eric D
From Gnarnia
Feb 3, 2014
Born again on the last move of the Red Dihedral, high Sierras.

Waterfall may not be good if you are climbing "up to 5.10." There is one 5.9, a handful of 10s, and up from there. Paradise forks is much better for that level of climbing.


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By NC Rock Climber
From The Oven, AKA Phoenix
Feb 3, 2014
tanuki

Lots of good suggestions. I think that Iso is a great place for those looking for 5.10 and below. There is a bunch of stuff to do in that range, and although not as big as RR or Jtree, the setting is amazing.


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By RyanJames
Feb 3, 2014
Photo by Aaron Lavinsky

Cochise is definitely where it's at! Imagine Joshua Tree, but higher quality, larger routes, fewer people, and the best: SLAB! (JK, the chickenheads are way better!)


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By NC Rock Climber
From The Oven, AKA Phoenix
Feb 3, 2014
tanuki

The op wanted climbs less than 3 pitches. That rules out a lot of stuff at Cochise.


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By CJK
From Northern, NM
Feb 4, 2014
Looking at the sunset and the route "Freebase" from the top of the "Byrds".

I'm surprised more of you didn't suggest Jack's Canyon... Some of highest quality rock in the state aside from Cochise and Lemmon. Solid limestone with plenty of protection to push your limits on the harder stuff. Enjoy your trip!


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By pkeds
From Hermosa Beach, CA
Feb 4, 2014

paradise forks. 'nuff said


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By Colonel Mustard
From Reno, NV
Feb 4, 2014
Colonel Mustard

Yeah, kinda shied away from suggesting the Flagstaff/Sedona area because they get a bit of winter there? Then again, Cochise can be cold as balls too. Where I'd want to hit is the stuff in the Sedona book, the secret cragging around Flag, and Winslow wall. There are many more crags too, secret and not.


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By richard aiken
Mar 11, 2014

OK, a further question:

Which of those sites will be easy to find partners on weekdays, assuming I don't get any partners lined up ahead of time?

I hope to head out next week, if I either have partners or will likely find some

thanks again
Richard


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By cochiseclimbing
Mar 11, 2014

Please feel fee to post on the Southern Arizona Climbers Coalition Facebook page that you are looking for partners. Also, the meet up group. We never plan that far in advance but most likely we will be in the Stronghold. Some of the best routes are around 6 pitches though you could do some sport climbing at Zappa or Lebowski wall. I posted the topo for Zappa at www.cochiseclimbing.com and finally got to climb Beeline, 5.9 fingers. Highly recommended and not effected by the peregrine falcon closure at the higher domes. Email us if you want more information.


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By Luke Bertelsen
Mar 11, 2014

Colonel Mustard wrote:
Cochise is known as J Tree for adults.


Cochise is known as J-tree, but 1000 times better.


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By richard aiken
Mar 11, 2014

is it easy to find partners at Cochise on weekdays?
thanks


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By manuel rangel
From Tempe, Arizona
Mar 11, 2014
Trying to redpoint The Ugly 11c; steeper than it looks and the rock is scary in spots but good enough.

If you went during Beanfest it would be no problem to find a partner. Otherwise, it would be hit or miss if you found anybody at a campground. Only one pay campground on the east side; many unpaid on the west side.


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By cochiseclimbing
Mar 13, 2014

I think you would have a hard time finding people just "out there". Most people plan their weekend trips and there is not a real campground like other climbing areas where you can walk around and meet other climbers. We have been out there every week end for the past 2 months and have hardly ran into anyone-especially without a partner. What are your dates? The Beanfest is April11


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