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Best and worst: 9.4 to 9.9mm
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By SeaJellie
From Ann Arbor, MI
Apr 27, 2010
Adrift on the oceans.

I'll arbitrarily collate the results of this "oh-so-scientific" survey now. Combining this thread with a few comments on the "How small is too small" topic, it's clear that the Sterling Velocity got the overwhelming best response. Bluewater wins the "love it or hate it" award. AFter that, it evens out pretty quickly with the Beal Booster and two Mammut ropes having notable positive responses. But many (if not most) ropes in this size range had at least one fan who chimed in.

Thanks to all for your input! I am reading with interest as I am stuck in the flatlands right now with no gear shops nearby; I cannot actually get my hands on any of these ropes before ordering, and then climbing on it shortly thereafter.


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By Phill T
Apr 27, 2010

I also have the BW 9.4 dominator. Its been great, except lately I've been noticing it has been leaving ALOT of fuzz behind on biners on even just a basic toprope/lowering etc setup. A few weeks ago I did have a ropedrag from hell over rough stone episode, so maybe its just still some of that not washed out yet, but its somewhat alarming. Its about 15 months old and has been my primary rope for everything from the creek to eldo to potrero chico. I'm considering the offerings from sterling, mammut, and edelrid from 9.6-9.8 70m to replace it when its time. If I got a screaming deal I'd get another dominator, but I want to try some other ropes out if all else is equal.


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By Kat A
From Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
Apr 27, 2010
Summit of Chasm View

I was happy with the BlueWater Lightening Pro 9.7 (now retired) and now have the Mammut Infinity 9.5.


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By Jon H
From Boulder
Apr 27, 2010
At the matching crux

Red wrote:
Mammut Infinity 9.5 - 70m Love it.


+1 Best rope I've ever owned. I've had two BlueWater 60m ropes (maybe 10.0mm), a set of Metolios 7.8mm twin/doubles, and an Edelrid skinny line (9.8ish) and the Mammut has outperformed them all.


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By Jason Blevins
From Burlington, NC
Jul 5, 2013
Me at Linville Gorge!!!

Larry wrote:
But in the other thread, Tony B says... So I guess a Bluewater 9.4 is OK as long as it's a bicolor? Or maybe it depends.

I have been using Bluewater ropes for 20+years and my dad 30yrs...I love my 2 10.5 Accellerators d.dry, they have been used for everything(climbing wise) and still almost like new( with little fray on sheaf)...I have talk in lenght with Dick the Owner of Bluewater and how they produce their ropes! He (Bluewater made/engineered the 1st Dynamic Climbing rope, also the U.S. Military buys All their Ropes from Bluewater) I have to say they take Pride in producing their ropes, at the highest quality!!! You do have to take care of your ropes, but they can last as long as you let them!!! About the 9.4 Dominator, I have read it the best lightwieght single/double rope out there...with wieght of 55grams per meter, 7 UIAA falls on single, 16 UIAA falls on half... no other rope can boast those numbers...Now, I don't know how they stand up yet? But I am getting/ordering 2 70m 9.4 Bluewater Dominator, before their all gone! Bluewater is has discontinued this rope...I am in talks with them and so far have been told it was discontinued, not due to Quality...Bluewater is now run by Dick's (founded of Bluewater), Son Chris (who has been working with Dick, so he has learned from good ol dad)...I don't think there will be ANY downfall in Bluewater's Products, even if there are some changes in what they offer! Dick still comes in everyday, he has over 60yrs experience in making ropes and I dought he would let this Great, Family owned/operated company go downhill! But, I plan on talking with Dick about the B.W. 9.4 Dominator and find out more, but I'm sure it's a ok... just curious! If anyone else has comment on their B.W. 9.4 Dominator, I would like here your comments, on how it has done for you!!! Best Climbing to All


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By Ian Cavanaugh
Jul 5, 2013

Im with the Booster III, Stinger III, Infinity, or blue water crowd. those ropes are amazing, all handle a little different, and good for there own qualities. stay away from the Tusk. it is a price point rope and is easily destroyed. it is also very stiff and doesnt handle as nice as many other ropes.


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By Jason Blevins
From Burlington, NC
Jul 5, 2013
Me at Linville Gorge!!!

Phill T wrote:
I also have the BW 9.4 dominator. Its been great, except lately I've been noticing it has been leaving ALOT of fuzz behind on biners on even just a basic toprope/lowering etc setup. A few weeks ago I did have a ropedrag from hell over rough stone episode, so maybe its just still some of that not washed out yet, but its somewhat alarming. Its about 15 months old and has been my primary rope for everything from the creek to eldo to potrero chico. I'm considering the offerings from sterling, mammut, and edelrid from 9.6-9.8 70m to replace it when its time. If I got a screaming deal I'd get another dominator, but I want to try some other ropes out if all else is equal.

You can get a great deal on the donimator 9.4 now, it's being discontinued so there are deals out there on them till their gone for good...about fuzz, what do you mean? as long as rope is not rubbing rock or maybe locking gate there shouldnt be fuzz on biners, check biners for burs...another advise is to use a pulley( I like CMI 110), when top-roping...it takes lots of wear off ropes and flows better, but does stretch alittle more...which accually takes more pressure off one point in your rope, with wieght on and puts wieght on whole rope! If you use long slings/runners you can avoid rope drag(pulley helps with rope drag in top-roping), especially over sharp edge!!!


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By Jason Blevins
From Burlington, NC
Jul 5, 2013
Me at Linville Gorge!!!

dirtbag wrote:
I would have to call bullshit on Tony... sorry for being frank, but you asked. Also, I don't advise "see-sawing" w/any skinny rope.

how are you going call Tony B.S.??? When you blow out a core of a rope, did you buy it new? What do you mean? Also, When your climbing hard overhangs and you take a fall, you might have to swing on edges with rope to get back on the rock, doesn't mean you are trying to cut rope, just that it's tough...no one wants to run their rope over edges, but it can happen in situations, they are tested over sharp edges(atleast Bluewater is)...Lets try to be kind and help each other! Maybe you can better explain your problem, with your rope?


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By 20 kN
From Hawaii
Jul 5, 2013

The Bluewater 9.4mm Dominator is a beast. I have used it for everything from hard sport to alpine(ish) multi-pitch trad. It is light and it can take a beating. I have logged about 150 falls on it so far and it is still looking quite reasonable.


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By Zappatista
Jul 6, 2013
Book me, officer.

^^^^Jason, punctuation, for the love of Gawd. The run-on sentences are killing me. Good information, but christing hayle impossible to read without gaining a real splitter of a headache...

BW 9.4s are the shit. Really surprised they're discontinuing them. Know a bunch of sportos who swear by that rope for working as well as redpointing, I've had a couple that lasted forever and took a ton of falls like champs.

Bluewater: love/hate award? Gimme a break. One person needs therapy after finding out that nylon is not a magic regenerative substance and that ropes do get old and wear out, eventually, and suddenly an entire company's product line is in question? I had a brand new Sterling wear out in less than a week and got less menstrual. Tampons, ladies. Tampons.


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By Devin Copeland
From H-Town
Jul 7, 2013

20 kN wrote:
The Bluewater 9.4mm Dominator is a beast. I have used it for everything from hard sport to alpine(ish) multi-pitch trad. It is light and it can take a beating. I have logged about 150 falls on it so far and it is still looking quite reasonable.


150 falls? Are you sure you are climbing or just 'falling'?

Could you drop the name of your buddy, plz?


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By Patrick Mulligan
Jul 7, 2013
The top of the tufa on Magma

In the last two years I've made a switch from Mammut to Edelweiss for the following reasons. I like the slightly stiffer hand of the Edelweiss ropes, they last just as long and have very similar handling characteristics as they age, and I've been able to find much better deals on Edelweiss. I prefer the 9.5 energy for 70m or longer (also available in 80m) and the 9.8 Curve. I also like their bipattern arc ropes.


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By Mark V
Jul 8, 2013

I've had the Edelrid Eagle 9.8 about a year, no complaints. Nice rope. Good feel, doesn't twist, feeds smooth.


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By Cale Hoopes
From Sammamish, WA
Jul 8, 2013
Profile Icon

justropes.com - lots of options and I believe there's a 20% off coupon floating out there (RGJ2011 or something like that)


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By Nick Nystrom
From Pittsburgh, PA
Jul 8, 2013
The start of pitch 3 of Ecstasy

Patrick Mulligan wrote:
In the last two years I've made a switch from Mammut to Edelweiss for the following reasons. I like the slightly stiffer hand of the Edelweiss ropes, they last just as long and have very similar handling characteristics as they age, and I've been able to find much better deals on Edelweiss. I prefer the 9.5 energy for 70m or longer (also available in 80m) and the 9.8 Curve. I also like their bipattern arc ropes.


+1 for Edelweiss Energy ARC. Most of my partners prefer using singles, so these are my main 60m and 70m ropes for trad, especially on potentially softer rock. I'm on my second 60m; the first wore well over its lifetime. Before that I had other Edelweiss with equally good results. (I also have Blue Water and Sterling ropes for other uses, so the positive evaluation isn't in a vacuum.)


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By wfscot
From Boulder, CO
Jul 8, 2013

I've been using a Mammut Infinity 9.5 for well over a year now with easily 30+ days outside, a few falls (nothing huge), and a fair amount of sand and dirt, and it still looks and feels basically new. Great rope.

FWIW, the Mammut Galaxy 10.0 sucks. That thing fuzzed up in no time.


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By Tibo
Jul 8, 2013

Another vote for the Mammut Tusk or Infinity. My Tusk simply refuses to die


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By Christian Mason
From Arvada, CO
Jul 8, 2013
Dragon's Tongue - Vail, Co.

Tibo wrote:
Another vote for the Mammut Tusk or Infinity. My Tusk simply refuses to die


I've had the opposite experience. My Tusk lasted for 3 years before I retried it, but it got seriously fuzzy and difficult to handle after a year or so.

No core shots to speak of, but the rope feels like it's an 11m now.


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By Tibo
Jul 8, 2013

Christian Mason wrote:
I've had the opposite experience. My Tusk lasted for 3 years before I retried it, but it got seriously fuzzy and difficult to handle after a year or so. No core shots to speak of, but the rope feels like it's an 11m now.


That is how a good rope ages! I am on my fourth year with the Tusk, it got progessively fuzzier and dirtier, the dry treatment is long gone. But there is no tear, no slippage in the sheath, and of course no core shot, depiste a lot of projecting on sport climbs and some top-ropes.


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By Frosty Weller
From Colorado
Jul 8, 2013
Desert Tower

Another +1 for the BW 9.4 Dominator (70m bi-color double dry).

One of the best ropes I have had in 30 years of climbing. Great do it all rope and is my first choice from sport to multi-pitch trad and alpine rock/ice. Plus it's sexy. (Some desert stuff, aid, and places like The Black not so much... but sexy doesn't matter there.)

As I am about due for a replacement and it would suck to have these discontinued, but am also curious as why and with what they would be replacing it with.

If anyone knows where to pick up a deal on these before they are gone it would be appreciated. (A quick check on BC.com shows they are out of stock there.)


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By Zirkel
From Bishop, CA
Jul 8, 2013
Owens Gorge.  Mt Tom in background.

I'm currently on my SIXTH Mammut Infinity 9.5 mm x 70 m for use specifically for multi-pitch trad routes. In 30+ years of climbing I've never used a finer handling rope.


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By Jason Blevins
From Burlington, NC
Jul 9, 2013
Me at Linville Gorge!!!

Frosty Weller wrote:
Another +1 for the BW 9.4 Dominator (70m bi-color double dry). One of the best ropes I have had in 30 years of climbing. Great do it all rope and is my first choice from sport to multi-pitch trad and alpine rock/ice. Plus it's sexy. (Some desert stuff, aid, and places like The Black not so much... but sexy doesn't matter there.) As I am about due for a replacement and it would suck to have these discontinued, but am also curious as why and with what they would be replacing it with. If anyone knows where to pick up a deal on these before they are gone it would be appreciated. (A quick check on BC.com shows they are out of stock there.)


Sorry, I my typing/ spelling is bad, I dont spend time writing perfect post! I talked with Bluewater, and thhey DID, discontinue the 9.4 Dominator...Because, they were having a hard time getting the thread that was specially used for the dominator...It was also more expensive, but oviously though as nails...That must be why the 9.4 Doninator could boast such numbers ( 7 single falls, 16 twin falls at 55grams per meter) and why the cost so much more!!! There are some climbing sites that have some 9.4 Donimator left, on sale but few left! I order 2 new 70 double dry 9.4 Dominators, before thier gone and got them at a great price! I had to have them sent over to Bluewater to get a 70m d.dryed... but looking forward to getting them, even though I had not planned on buying a rope this year...but have want this rope for a year now and it was my last chance to get them!!! Once there gone, there gone!!! Like my 3rd edition of NC Kelley's Climbers guide! I tryed to buy a new one to have a backup, and they quit making and now cost like $3,000 for a new one, crazy! If I can help more let me know! wish you all great climbing!


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By Jason Blevins
From Burlington, NC
Jul 9, 2013
Me at Linville Gorge!!!

SirChips-A-Lot wrote:
^^^^Jason, punctuation, for the love of Gawd. The run-on sentences are killing me. Good information, but christing hayle impossible to read without gaining a real splitter of a headache... BW 9.4s are the shit. Really surprised they're discontinuing them. Know a bunch of sportos who swear by that rope for working as well as redpointing, I've had a couple that lasted forever and took a ton of falls like champs. Bluewater: love/hate award? Gimme a break. One person needs therapy after finding out that nylon is not a magic regenerative substance and that ropes do get old and wear out, eventually, and suddenly an entire company's product line is in question? I had a brand new Sterling wear out in less than a week and got less menstrual. Tampons, ladies. Tampons.


Sorry, not geat typer. But, thanks for complinmet! Accually, you are right...rope will wear out! But, some tougher and better than others in my opinion! Thought I would let you know that the B.W. 9.4 Dominator was made of a hard to get, expensive thread...thats why Bluewater's Manger/Owner (now Chris, Dick's son) said they Discontinued it...they replaced it with a B.W. (9.1 Icon), which is a good rope with numbers of Diameter: 9.1mm
Grams Per Meter: 55
Impact Force: 8.8 kN
UIAA Falls Held: 5
Static Elongation: 7.2%
Dynamic Elongation: 32.7%
Sheath Slippage: -3mm
Sheath Mass: 35%
I don't know what the Twin fall rating is, blue sure Bluewater does! I have had my B.W. 10.5 Accelerators, for over 10years and 1 is like new, other has little sheath wear..no lead falls on them yet..but lots of tope-roping falls and no core damage(I use CMI Pulley, top-roping to extend rope life!)...I store them inside and wash when needed, use tumble washers ONLY and Hang dry(not in sun)...I was told that B.W. Ropes will last as long as you care for them right, but will repalced when needed( 11 lead falls or even more important if sheath wears near core)...This is what I found out from the formost Dynamic Rope Expert! Also, have 2 friend that have the 10.5 Accelerators and love em!!! I just wanted something lighter for leading, that why I got 2 B.W. 9.4 Dominators! Best wishes and climbing!


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By redlude97
Jul 9, 2013

Zirkel wrote:
I'm currently on my SIXTH Mammut Infinity 9.5 mm x 70 m for use specifically for multi-pitch trad routes. In 30+ years of climbing I've never used a finer handling rope.

Another +1 for the Infinity. I have one of Mammut's newer Climax 9.6 that I use for cragging that is also very nice if you want a cheap budget skinny. Got is for $120 on sale a while back


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By Aaron Bugh
From Bozeman, MT
Jul 9, 2013
Me

Best: New England Glider 9.9
Worst: Edelwiess Energy 9.4


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