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Best and worst: 9.4 to 9.9mm
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By SeaJellie
From Ann Arbor, MI
Apr 23, 2010
Adrift on the oceans.
Closely related to the how small is too small topic..

I'm in the market for a new rope, skinnier than I've used in decades past. Mostly I plan to use it for multipitch trad routes; I'll still use some stout ropes for cragging and sport.

Am thinking that 9.4 to 9.9mm and 60 or 70m length is the target. 70m would be great, but I don't see a lot of choice at that length and size.

Price not an issue. Not because I'm rich, because I don't get to climb much anymore so I compensate by giving myself better toys. :-)

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By commiebob
From NJ
Apr 23, 2010
I'm a big fan of the Mammut Tusk 9.8mm

It comes in a 70m too!
rei.com/product/799208

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By Jeremy Monahan
From Fort Fun, CO
Apr 23, 2010
View of Longs Peak from Mt. Alice, RMNP
Beal Booster III or Stinger III. Best rope I have climbed on, good stretch and feel.
Both have some of the lowest impact forces for 9-10 mm ropes.
Comes in 70, which I would recommend for linking pitches.
I would recommend the GoldenDry treatment because the entire rope (core and sheath) is treated.

Be aware, these skinny ropes like to slip through auto belay devices like the Gri Gri. An attentive belay is always needed with these ropes.

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By aschwartz
From Spearfish,SD
Apr 23, 2010
sterling 9.8 velocity

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By dirtbag
From Bellingham, WA
Apr 23, 2010
i really enjoyed this drive to the tetons... can't...
Stay away from the Bluewater Dominator 9.4 if you are climbing on rock... it blew a core-shot on me on a friendly slopy terrain belay I've used dozens of times on 9.7's w/no problems at all. I don't confidence that the sheath would hold up to the occational whipper either.

I had good luck w/the Petzl Nomad - although the dry treatment didn't last, the damn thing wouldn't die. I reserved it as my go to multi-pitch and alpine rope for a while.

I just replaced the Nomad with a Beal Booster and it's doing well.. the sheath is tight and supple and the dry treatment is still holding up after getting soaked several times. Suffered rough granite and minimal fuzz still.

Enjoy going lighter.. anything to save the knees on the way down.

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By Garrett Soper
From Duluth, Minnesota
Apr 23, 2010
Leading at DL
aschwartz wrote:
sterling 9.8 velocity

+1
I've had my rope for a year or so, and it still looks and feels awesome.

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By Sisyphus
From here and there
Apr 23, 2010
willie
aschwartz wrote:
sterling 9.8 velocity

+1

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By Jasmine Kall
Apr 23, 2010
Getting ready to climb!
dirtbag wrote:
Stay away from the Bluewater Dominator 9.4 if you are climbing on rock... it blew a core-shot on me on a friendly slopy terrain belay I've used dozens of times on 9.7's w/no problems at all. I don't confidence that the sheath would hold up to the occational whipper either. I had good luck w/the Petzl Nomad - although the dry treatment didn't last, the damn thing wouldn't die. I reserved it as my go to multi-pitch and alpine rope for a while. I just replaced the Nomad with a Beal Booster and it's doing well.. the sheath is tight and supple and the dry treatment is still holding up after getting soaked several times. Suffered rough granite and minimal fuzz still. Enjoy going lighter.. anything to save the knees on the way down.

I too am having issues with mine also... Pig tails and doesn't handle as well as it could.

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By John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Apr 23, 2010
aschwartz wrote:
sterling 9.8 velocity


+1

imho, the best all-around rope on the market.

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By Aaron Martinuzzi
Apr 23, 2010
end of the day in the black canyon.
hey dude - I just retired a 9.2 mm Edelweiss Performance that performed quite well for me in the last year. it saw a good 125 days and went out with a rubbed-through sheath from the first pitch of Honeymoon Chimney and a soft spot from getting stuck (and pulled out pretty roughly) rappelling The Priest. It was an awesome rope, surprisingly tough for such a thin line, and light. Don't get me wrong, it developed a bit of fuzz sort of quickly, but other than the initial wear it didn't present anything of note until the damage I mentioned above, which is more due to my own actions than any fault of the rope. i'm replacing it with a PMI Elite, 9.4 mm, which I've climbed on in the past and been impressed with. Sticking with 70m; nice for long rappels, linking pitches, and Indian Creek.

other than that, speaking from non-ownership experiences, I've really liked Sterling ropes, had mixed impressions of Mammut lines, and have not been impressed by the Petzl Nomad (9.8mm).

there's another thread on the same topic here - how small is too small.

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By Crag Dweller
From New York, NY
Apr 23, 2010
My navigator keeps me from getting lost
i'm really happy w/my 9.6mm Edelweiss Laser. it handles well and has a soft catch. i've used it for about 6 months. it's seen plenty of falls that weren't small and it is holding up very well. it could use a bath but that's another story.

i used a 9.7mm Petzl Nomad before and was pretty happy with it as well. it did kink up a bit more than i would have liked but the handle and catch were comparable to the Edelweiss. the durability wasn't all that great, though. core shots appeared relatively quickly and i had to retire it after about a year's worth of climbing. but, that was 99% sport cragging with several falls.

both of those are available in 70m.

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By SteveSly
From Bay Area, CA
Apr 23, 2010
Another vote for the tusk. Handles quite nicely.

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By Larry
From SoAZ
Apr 23, 2010
dirtbag wrote:
Stay away from the Bluewater Dominator 9.4 if you are climbing on rock... it blew a core-shot on me on a friendly slopy terrain belay I've used dozens of times on 9.7's w/no problems at all. I don't confidence that the sheath would hold up to the occational whipper either.


But in the other thread, Tony B says...

Tony B wrote:
My Bluewater 9.4 bicolor has been a F^%#ing fortress. I've practically hauled a partner through granite chimneys and had hangdogs under roofs see-sawing across edges. I can't fathom how it is enduring that wihtout looking worse. I'll probably buy another one when this one dies. So I guess I'm saying that a 9.4 can most certainly be durable enough.


So I guess a Bluewater 9.4 is OK as long as it's a bicolor?

Or maybe it depends.

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By Keenan Waeschle
From Bozeman, MT
Apr 23, 2010
on top of the RNWF June 2012
get a petzl fuze 9.4 in 70m
a friend has one and it's great, linking pitches is no problem and it's light for the approaches. also incredibly durable, his has been used every other weekend for the last year and is still great, no fuzzy sheath.
I've seen them on sale for $150 too.

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By caughtinside
From Oakland CA
Apr 23, 2010
aschwartz wrote:
sterling 9.8 velocity


I'd go with this one. Best balance of durability in a sub 10 rope I've found, with good handling.

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By sstrauss
From Denver
Apr 24, 2010
Dream Weaver in it's death throws
recently purchased a New England 9.9 70m. So far, so good. U.S. product and extremely reasonable price. I think I paid about $60-$70 less than the Mammut Tusk I had my eye on.

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By Kevin Stricker
From Evergreen, CO
Apr 24, 2010
Something to keep in mind is that size doesn't matter with ropes. Meaning manufacturers measure the size of their ropes with different standards, so you always want to compare based on weight. A 9.7 Beal Booster weighs the same as a 10.1m Sterling Marathon Pro (63g/m). Both are amazing ropes but the Marathon is more durable.

If you really want to get a lighter rope than what you are used to you will need to step down to the lightweight class of 9.4 to 9.5mm ropes which weigh in the 58-60g/m range.

For perspective a 70m Beal Stinger only weighs a half pound more than a 60m Beal Booster. The Stinger will wear out faster than the Booster, but you get the extra length for almost free (weight wise).

I have had great luck with Sterling, Blue Water, and Beal ropes and they are usually the brands I look for in a new rope.

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By TomCaldwell
From Clemson, S.C.
Apr 24, 2010
Me on One Pitch Wonder at Whitesides.  Photo credi...
I like the Beal Booster III 9.7 and Mammut Infinity 9.5.

The Petzl Fuse 9.4 sucks. The sheath is terrible.

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By dirtbag
From Bellingham, WA
Apr 24, 2010
i really enjoyed this drive to the tetons... can't...
Larry wrote:
But in the other thread, Tony B says... So I guess a Bluewater 9.4 is OK as long as it's a bicolor? Or maybe it depends.


I would have to call bullshit on Tony... sorry for being frank, but you asked. Also, I don't advise "see-sawing" w/any skinny rope.

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By Sam Stephens
Apr 24, 2010
Top half of Melifluous
I'm tossing in another vote for the Sterling 9.8 Velocity. Hell of a rope.

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By Rob Duncan
From Salt Lake City
Apr 24, 2010
I really like sterling. They seem to hold up well in a variety of conditions without puffing up after a year.

I really love my 9.8 Evolution for sporto action but have been loving my 70m 9.5 Ion for multipitch stuff. The Ion is great, doesn't stretch much and is quite light.

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By Price
From SLC, UT
Apr 25, 2010
dirtbag wrote:
I would have to call bullshit on Tony... sorry for being frank, but you asked. Also, I don't advise "see-sawing" w/any skinny rope.



I'm w/ tony on this one. My 9.4 BW is my alpine rope and has seen some excellent use, and has held up wonderfully.

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By timt
From Wheat Ridge, CO
Apr 25, 2010
on lead, Mean Green Cody,WY
+1 for the bluewater 9.4. mine is not only my eldo & lumpy workhorse, but it is also a top choice for alpine. my current one has seen at least a dozen alpine rock routes and too many rappels to count and looks way too good for the amount of mileage it has seen!

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By Pete eye
From Fort Collins, CO
Apr 25, 2010
Acadia, on the way back from Great Head
anybody know about the edelrid eagle 9.8? on paper this thing looks pretty balanced. What does real life say about it?

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By Cindy Mitchell
Apr 26, 2010
Racking up for the 3rd pitch of Ruper
Blue Water Lightning Pro, 9.7mm 70m bi-color, dry.

Have been using this for the past 8 months and love it.

My last 3 were Sterling ropes and I couldn't keep them clean even with diligent use of a rope bag. I was washing them every 6 climbs or so. Other than the propensity to collect every speck of dirt within a 20 foot radius, they handled well.

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By Red
From Arizona
Apr 26, 2010
Cobra Kai
Mammut Infinity 9.5 - 70m

Love it.

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