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Best and worst: 9.4 to 9.9mm

Original Post
SeaJellie · · Ann Arbor, MI · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 5

Closely related to the how small is too small topic..

I'm in the market for a new rope, skinnier than I've used in decades past. Mostly I plan to use it for multipitch trad routes; I'll still use some stout ropes for cragging and sport.

Am thinking that 9.4 to 9.9mm and 60 or 70m length is the target. 70m would be great, but I don't see a lot of choice at that length and size.

Price not an issue. Not because I'm rich, because I don't get to climb much anymore so I compensate by giving myself better toys. :-)

commiebob · · NJ · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 0

I'm a big fan of the Mammut Tusk 9.8mm

It comes in a 70m too!
rei.com/product/799208

Jeremy Monahan · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined May 2002 · Points: 410

Beal Booster III or Stinger III. Best rope I have climbed on, good stretch and feel.
Both have some of the lowest impact forces for 9-10 mm ropes.
Comes in 70, which I would recommend for linking pitches.
I would recommend the GoldenDry treatment because the entire rope (core and sheath) is treated.

Be aware, these skinny ropes like to slip through auto belay devices like the Gri Gri. An attentive belay is always needed with these ropes.

Braden Downey · · Bishop, CA · Joined Feb 2007 · Points: 110

Stay away from the Bluewater Dominator 9.4 if you are climbing on rock... it blew a core-shot on me on a friendly slopy terrain belay I've used dozens of times on 9.7's w/no problems at all. I don't confidence that the sheath would hold up to the occational whipper either.

I had good luck w/the Petzl Nomad - although the dry treatment didn't last, the damn thing wouldn't die. I reserved it as my go to multi-pitch and alpine rope for a while.

I just replaced the Nomad with a Beal Booster and it's doing well.. the sheath is tight and supple and the dry treatment is still holding up after getting soaked several times. Suffered rough granite and minimal fuzz still.

Enjoy going lighter.. anything to save the knees on the way down.

Garrett Soper · · Duluth, Minnesota · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 20
aschwartz wrote:sterling 9.8 velocity
+1
I've had my rope for a year or so, and it still looks and feels awesome.
Chad · · UT · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 110
aschwartz wrote:sterling 9.8 velocity
+1
Jasmine Kall · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 40
dirtbag wrote:Stay away from the Bluewater Dominator 9.4 if you are climbing on rock... it blew a core-shot on me on a friendly slopy terrain belay I've used dozens of times on 9.7's w/no problems at all. I don't confidence that the sheath would hold up to the occational whipper either. I had good luck w/the Petzl Nomad - although the dry treatment didn't last, the damn thing wouldn't die. I reserved it as my go to multi-pitch and alpine rope for a while. I just replaced the Nomad with a Beal Booster and it's doing well.. the sheath is tight and supple and the dry treatment is still holding up after getting soaked several times. Suffered rough granite and minimal fuzz still. Enjoy going lighter.. anything to save the knees on the way down.
I too am having issues with mine also... Pig tails and doesn't handle as well as it could.
Aaron Martinuzzi · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 1,485

hey dude - I just retired a 9.2 mm Edelweiss Performance that performed quite well for me in the last year. it saw a good 125 days and went out with a rubbed-through sheath from the first pitch of Honeymoon Chimney and a soft spot from getting stuck (and pulled out pretty roughly) rappelling The Priest. It was an awesome rope, surprisingly tough for such a thin line, and light. Don't get me wrong, it developed a bit of fuzz sort of quickly, but other than the initial wear it didn't present anything of note until the damage I mentioned above, which is more due to my own actions than any fault of the rope. i'm replacing it with a PMI Elite, 9.4 mm, which I've climbed on in the past and been impressed with. Sticking with 70m; nice for long rappels, linking pitches, and Indian Creek.

other than that, speaking from non-ownership experiences, I've really liked Sterling ropes, had mixed impressions of Mammut lines, and have not been impressed by the Petzl Nomad (9.8mm).

there's another thread on the same topic here - how small is too small.

Crag Dweller · · New York, NY · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 125

i'm really happy w/my 9.6mm Edelweiss Laser. it handles well and has a soft catch. i've used it for about 6 months. it's seen plenty of falls that weren't small and it is holding up very well. it could use a bath but that's another story.

i used a 9.7mm Petzl Nomad before and was pretty happy with it as well. it did kink up a bit more than i would have liked but the handle and catch were comparable to the Edelweiss. the durability wasn't all that great, though. core shots appeared relatively quickly and i had to retire it after about a year's worth of climbing. but, that was 99% sport cragging with several falls.

both of those are available in 70m.

Steve Maxey · · Merced, CA · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 0

Another vote for the tusk. Handles quite nicely.

Larry · · SoAZ · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 50
dirtbag wrote:Stay away from the Bluewater Dominator 9.4 if you are climbing on rock... it blew a core-shot on me on a friendly slopy terrain belay I've used dozens of times on 9.7's w/no problems at all. I don't confidence that the sheath would hold up to the occational whipper either.
But in the other thread, Tony B says...

Tony B wrote:My Bluewater 9.4 bicolor has been a F^%#ing fortress. I've practically hauled a partner through granite chimneys and had hangdogs under roofs see-sawing across edges. I can't fathom how it is enduring that wihtout looking worse. I'll probably buy another one when this one dies. So I guess I'm saying that a 9.4 can most certainly be durable enough.
So I guess a Bluewater 9.4 is OK as long as it's a bicolor?

Or maybe it depends.
Kip Kasper · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 200

get a petzl fuze 9.4 in 70m
a friend has one and it's great, linking pitches is no problem and it's light for the approaches. also incredibly durable, his has been used every other weekend for the last year and is still great, no fuzzy sheath.
I've seen them on sale for $150 too.

sstrauss · · Denver · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 80

recently purchased a New England 9.9 70m. So far, so good. U.S. product and extremely reasonable price. I think I paid about $60-$70 less than the Mammut Tusk I had my eye on.

Kevin Stricker · · Evergreen, CO · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 1,197

Something to keep in mind is that size doesn't matter with ropes. Meaning manufacturers measure the size of their ropes with different standards, so you always want to compare based on weight. A 9.7 Beal Booster weighs the same as a 10.1m Sterling Marathon Pro (63g/m). Both are amazing ropes but the Marathon is more durable.

If you really want to get a lighter rope than what you are used to you will need to step down to the lightweight class of 9.4 to 9.5mm ropes which weigh in the 58-60g/m range.

For perspective a 70m Beal Stinger only weighs a half pound more than a 60m Beal Booster. The Stinger will wear out faster than the Booster, but you get the extra length for almost free (weight wise).

I have had great luck with Sterling, Blue Water, and Beal ropes and they are usually the brands I look for in a new rope.

Tom Caldwell · · Clemson, S.C. · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 3,623

I like the Beal Booster III 9.7 and Mammut Infinity 9.5.

The Petzl Fuse 9.4 sucks. The sheath is terrible.

Braden Downey · · Bishop, CA · Joined Feb 2007 · Points: 110
Larry wrote: But in the other thread, Tony B says... So I guess a Bluewater 9.4 is OK as long as it's a bicolor? Or maybe it depends.
I would have to call bullshit on Tony... sorry for being frank, but you asked. Also, I don't advise "see-sawing" w/any skinny rope.
Sam Stephens · · PORTLAND, OR · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 1,090

I'm tossing in another vote for the Sterling 9.8 Velocity. Hell of a rope.

Rob Duncan · · Salt Lake City · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 165

I really like sterling. They seem to hold up well in a variety of conditions without puffing up after a year.

I really love my 9.8 Evolution for sporto action but have been loving my 70m 9.5 Ion for multipitch stuff. The Ion is great, doesn't stretch much and is quite light.

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0
dirtbag wrote: I would have to call bullshit on Tony... sorry for being frank, but you asked. Also, I don't advise "see-sawing" w/any skinny rope.
I'm w/ tony on this one. My 9.4 BW is my alpine rope and has seen some excellent use, and has held up wonderfully.
timt · · Wheat Ridge, CO · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 50

+1 for the bluewater 9.4. mine is not only my eldo & lumpy workhorse, but it is also a top choice for alpine. my current one has seen at least a dozen alpine rock routes and too many rappels to count and looks way too good for the amount of mileage it has seen!

Pete eye · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 190

anybody know about the edelrid eagle 9.8? on paper this thing looks pretty balanced. What does real life say about it?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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