Best and worst: 9.4 to 9.9mm
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Closely related to the how small is too small topic.. |
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I'm a big fan of the Mammut Tusk 9.8mm |
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Beal Booster III or Stinger III. Best rope I have climbed on, good stretch and feel. |
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Stay away from the Bluewater Dominator 9.4 if you are climbing on rock... it blew a core-shot on me on a friendly slopy terrain belay I've used dozens of times on 9.7's w/no problems at all. I don't confidence that the sheath would hold up to the occational whipper either. |
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aschwartz wrote:sterling 9.8 velocity+1 I've had my rope for a year or so, and it still looks and feels awesome. |
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aschwartz wrote:sterling 9.8 velocity+1 |
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dirtbag wrote:Stay away from the Bluewater Dominator 9.4 if you are climbing on rock... it blew a core-shot on me on a friendly slopy terrain belay I've used dozens of times on 9.7's w/no problems at all. I don't confidence that the sheath would hold up to the occational whipper either. I had good luck w/the Petzl Nomad - although the dry treatment didn't last, the damn thing wouldn't die. I reserved it as my go to multi-pitch and alpine rope for a while. I just replaced the Nomad with a Beal Booster and it's doing well.. the sheath is tight and supple and the dry treatment is still holding up after getting soaked several times. Suffered rough granite and minimal fuzz still. Enjoy going lighter.. anything to save the knees on the way down.I too am having issues with mine also... Pig tails and doesn't handle as well as it could. |
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hey dude - I just retired a 9.2 mm Edelweiss Performance that performed quite well for me in the last year. it saw a good 125 days and went out with a rubbed-through sheath from the first pitch of Honeymoon Chimney and a soft spot from getting stuck (and pulled out pretty roughly) rappelling The Priest. It was an awesome rope, surprisingly tough for such a thin line, and light. Don't get me wrong, it developed a bit of fuzz sort of quickly, but other than the initial wear it didn't present anything of note until the damage I mentioned above, which is more due to my own actions than any fault of the rope. i'm replacing it with a PMI Elite, 9.4 mm, which I've climbed on in the past and been impressed with. Sticking with 70m; nice for long rappels, linking pitches, and Indian Creek. |
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i'm really happy w/my 9.6mm Edelweiss Laser. it handles well and has a soft catch. i've used it for about 6 months. it's seen plenty of falls that weren't small and it is holding up very well. it could use a bath but that's another story. |
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Another vote for the tusk. Handles quite nicely. |
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dirtbag wrote:Stay away from the Bluewater Dominator 9.4 if you are climbing on rock... it blew a core-shot on me on a friendly slopy terrain belay I've used dozens of times on 9.7's w/no problems at all. I don't confidence that the sheath would hold up to the occational whipper either.But in the other thread, Tony B says... Tony B wrote:My Bluewater 9.4 bicolor has been a F^%#ing fortress. I've practically hauled a partner through granite chimneys and had hangdogs under roofs see-sawing across edges. I can't fathom how it is enduring that wihtout looking worse. I'll probably buy another one when this one dies. So I guess I'm saying that a 9.4 can most certainly be durable enough.So I guess a Bluewater 9.4 is OK as long as it's a bicolor? Or maybe it depends. |
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get a petzl fuze 9.4 in 70m |
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recently purchased a New England 9.9 70m. So far, so good. U.S. product and extremely reasonable price. I think I paid about $60-$70 less than the Mammut Tusk I had my eye on. |
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Something to keep in mind is that size doesn't matter with ropes. Meaning manufacturers measure the size of their ropes with different standards, so you always want to compare based on weight. A 9.7 Beal Booster weighs the same as a 10.1m Sterling Marathon Pro (63g/m). Both are amazing ropes but the Marathon is more durable. |
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I like the Beal Booster III 9.7 and Mammut Infinity 9.5. |
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Larry wrote: But in the other thread, Tony B says... So I guess a Bluewater 9.4 is OK as long as it's a bicolor? Or maybe it depends.I would have to call bullshit on Tony... sorry for being frank, but you asked. Also, I don't advise "see-sawing" w/any skinny rope. |
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I'm tossing in another vote for the Sterling 9.8 Velocity. Hell of a rope. |
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I really like sterling. They seem to hold up well in a variety of conditions without puffing up after a year. |
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dirtbag wrote: I would have to call bullshit on Tony... sorry for being frank, but you asked. Also, I don't advise "see-sawing" w/any skinny rope.I'm w/ tony on this one. My 9.4 BW is my alpine rope and has seen some excellent use, and has held up wonderfully. |
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+1 for the bluewater 9.4. mine is not only my eldo & lumpy workhorse, but it is also a top choice for alpine. my current one has seen at least a dozen alpine rock routes and too many rappels to count and looks way too good for the amount of mileage it has seen! |
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anybody know about the edelrid eagle 9.8? on paper this thing looks pretty balanced. What does real life say about it? |