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Best and worst: 9.4 to 9.9mm
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Apr 23, 2010
Adrift on the oceans.
Closely related to the how small is too small topic..

I'm in the market for a new rope, skinnier than I've used in decades past. Mostly I plan to use it for multipitch trad routes; I'll still use some stout ropes for cragging and sport.

Am thinking that 9.4 to 9.9mm and 60 or 70m length is the target. 70m would be great, but I don't see a lot of choice at that length and size.

Price not an issue. Not because I'm rich, because I don't get to climb much anymore so I compensate by giving myself better toys. :-)
SeaJellie
From Ann Arbor, MI
Joined Jun 5, 2008
9 points
Apr 23, 2010
I'm a big fan of the Mammut Tusk 9.8mm

It comes in a 70m too!
rei.com/product/799208
commiebob
From NJ
Joined Apr 22, 2010
0 points
Apr 23, 2010
View of Longs Peak from Mt. Alice, RMNP
Beal Booster III or Stinger III. Best rope I have climbed on, good stretch and feel.
Both have some of the lowest impact forces for 9-10 mm ropes.
Comes in 70, which I would recommend for linking pitches.
I would recommend the GoldenDry treatment because the entire rope (core and sheath) is treated.

Be aware, these skinny ropes like to slip through auto belay devices like the Gri Gri. An attentive belay is always needed with these ropes.
Jeremy Monahan
From Fort Fun, CO
Joined May 18, 2002
477 points
Apr 23, 2010
sterling 9.8 velocity aschwartz
Joined Feb 9, 2008
479 points
Apr 23, 2010
i really enjoyed this drive to the tetons... can't...
Stay away from the Bluewater Dominator 9.4 if you are climbing on rock... it blew a core-shot on me on a friendly slopy terrain belay I've used dozens of times on 9.7's w/no problems at all. I don't confidence that the sheath would hold up to the occational whipper either.

I had good luck w/the Petzl Nomad - although the dry treatment didn't last, the damn thing wouldn't die. I reserved it as my go to multi-pitch and alpine rope for a while.

I just replaced the Nomad with a Beal Booster and it's doing well.. the sheath is tight and supple and the dry treatment is still holding up after getting soaked several times. Suffered rough granite and minimal fuzz still.

Enjoy going lighter.. anything to save the knees on the way down.
dirtbag
From Bellingham, WA
Joined Feb 4, 2007
143 points
Apr 23, 2010
Leading at DL
aschwartz wrote:
sterling 9.8 velocity

+1
I've had my rope for a year or so, and it still looks and feels awesome.
Garrett Soper
From Duluth, Minnesota
Joined Jul 26, 2008
45 points
Apr 23, 2010
willie
aschwartz wrote:
sterling 9.8 velocity

+1
Sisyphus
From Amherst, MA
Joined Dec 31, 2009
71 points
Apr 23, 2010
Getting ready to climb!
dirtbag wrote:
Stay away from the Bluewater Dominator 9.4 if you are climbing on rock... it blew a core-shot on me on a friendly slopy terrain belay I've used dozens of times on 9.7's w/no problems at all. I don't confidence that the sheath would hold up to the occational whipper either. I had good luck w/the Petzl Nomad - although the dry treatment didn't last, the damn thing wouldn't die. I reserved it as my go to multi-pitch and alpine rope for a while. I just replaced the Nomad with a Beal Booster and it's doing well.. the sheath is tight and supple and the dry treatment is still holding up after getting soaked several times. Suffered rough granite and minimal fuzz still. Enjoy going lighter.. anything to save the knees on the way down.

I too am having issues with mine also... Pig tails and doesn't handle as well as it could.
Jasmine Kall
Joined Nov 7, 2008
50 points
Apr 23, 2010
aschwartz wrote:
sterling 9.8 velocity


+1

imho, the best all-around rope on the market.
John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined Feb 1, 2004
2,395 points
Apr 23, 2010
end of the day in the black canyon.
hey dude - I just retired a 9.2 mm Edelweiss Performance that performed quite well for me in the last year. it saw a good 125 days and went out with a rubbed-through sheath from the first pitch of Honeymoon Chimney and a soft spot from getting stuck (and pulled out pretty roughly) rappelling The Priest. It was an awesome rope, surprisingly tough for such a thin line, and light. Don't get me wrong, it developed a bit of fuzz sort of quickly, but other than the initial wear it didn't present anything of note until the damage I mentioned above, which is more due to my own actions than any fault of the rope. i'm replacing it with a PMI Elite, 9.4 mm, which I've climbed on in the past and been impressed with. Sticking with 70m; nice for long rappels, linking pitches, and Indian Creek.

other than that, speaking from non-ownership experiences, I've really liked Sterling ropes, had mixed impressions of Mammut lines, and have not been impressed by the Petzl Nomad (9.8mm).

there's another thread on the same topic here - how small is too small.
Aaron Martinuzzi
Joined Apr 15, 2008
1,585 points
Apr 23, 2010
My navigator keeps me from getting lost
i'm really happy w/my 9.6mm Edelweiss Laser. it handles well and has a soft catch. i've used it for about 6 months. it's seen plenty of falls that weren't small and it is holding up very well. it could use a bath but that's another story.

i used a 9.7mm Petzl Nomad before and was pretty happy with it as well. it did kink up a bit more than i would have liked but the handle and catch were comparable to the Edelweiss. the durability wasn't all that great, though. core shots appeared relatively quickly and i had to retire it after about a year's worth of climbing. but, that was 99% sport cragging with several falls.

both of those are available in 70m.
Crag Dweller
From New York, NY
Joined Jul 17, 2006
274 points
Apr 23, 2010
Another vote for the tusk. Handles quite nicely. SteveSly
From Bay Area, CA
Joined Oct 26, 2009
1 points
Apr 23, 2010
dirtbag wrote:
Stay away from the Bluewater Dominator 9.4 if you are climbing on rock... it blew a core-shot on me on a friendly slopy terrain belay I've used dozens of times on 9.7's w/no problems at all. I don't confidence that the sheath would hold up to the occational whipper either.


But in the other thread, Tony B says...

Tony B wrote:
My Bluewater 9.4 bicolor has been a F^%#ing fortress. I've practically hauled a partner through granite chimneys and had hangdogs under roofs see-sawing across edges. I can't fathom how it is enduring that wihtout looking worse. I'll probably buy another one when this one dies. So I guess I'm saying that a 9.4 can most certainly be durable enough.


So I guess a Bluewater 9.4 is OK as long as it's a bicolor?

Or maybe it depends.
Larry
From SoAZ
Joined Jan 23, 2006
90 points
Apr 23, 2010
on top of the RNWF June 2012
get a petzl fuze 9.4 in 70m
a friend has one and it's great, linking pitches is no problem and it's light for the approaches. also incredibly durable, his has been used every other weekend for the last year and is still great, no fuzzy sheath.
I've seen them on sale for $150 too.
Keenan Waeschle
From Bozeman, MT
Joined Feb 8, 2010
217 points
Apr 23, 2010
aschwartz wrote:
sterling 9.8 velocity


I'd go with this one. Best balance of durability in a sub 10 rope I've found, with good handling.
caughtinside
From Oakland CA
Joined Nov 21, 2006
1,895 points
Apr 24, 2010
Dream Weaver in it's death throws
recently purchased a New England 9.9 70m. So far, so good. U.S. product and extremely reasonable price. I think I paid about $60-$70 less than the Mammut Tusk I had my eye on. sstrauss
From Denver
Joined Sep 23, 2009
89 points
Apr 24, 2010
Something to keep in mind is that size doesn't matter with ropes. Meaning manufacturers measure the size of their ropes with different standards, so you always want to compare based on weight. A 9.7 Beal Booster weighs the same as a 10.1m Sterling Marathon Pro (63g/m). Both are amazing ropes but the Marathon is more durable.

If you really want to get a lighter rope than what you are used to you will need to step down to the lightweight class of 9.4 to 9.5mm ropes which weigh in the 58-60g/m range.

For perspective a 70m Beal Stinger only weighs a half pound more than a 60m Beal Booster. The Stinger will wear out faster than the Booster, but you get the extra length for almost free (weight wise).

I have had great luck with Sterling, Blue Water, and Beal ropes and they are usually the brands I look for in a new rope.
Kevin Stricker
From Evergreen, CO
Joined Oct 20, 2002
646 points
Apr 24, 2010
Pano of Choas in the P2 crux. Undercling-high-step...
I like the Beal Booster III 9.7 and Mammut Infinity 9.5.

The Petzl Fuse 9.4 sucks. The sheath is terrible.
TomCaldwell
From Clemson, S.C.
Joined Jun 2, 2009
2,646 points
Apr 24, 2010
i really enjoyed this drive to the tetons... can't...
Larry wrote:
But in the other thread, Tony B says... So I guess a Bluewater 9.4 is OK as long as it's a bicolor? Or maybe it depends.


I would have to call bullshit on Tony... sorry for being frank, but you asked. Also, I don't advise "see-sawing" w/any skinny rope.
dirtbag
From Bellingham, WA
Joined Feb 4, 2007
143 points
Apr 24, 2010
Top half of Melifluous
I'm tossing in another vote for the Sterling 9.8 Velocity. Hell of a rope. Sam Stephens
Joined Jan 20, 2010
768 points
Apr 24, 2010
I really like sterling. They seem to hold up well in a variety of conditions without puffing up after a year.

I really love my 9.8 Evolution for sporto action but have been loving my 70m 9.5 Ion for multipitch stuff. The Ion is great, doesn't stretch much and is quite light.
Rob Duncan
From Salt Lake City
Joined Dec 27, 2007
131 points
Apr 25, 2010
dirtbag wrote:
I would have to call bullshit on Tony... sorry for being frank, but you asked. Also, I don't advise "see-sawing" w/any skinny rope.



I'm w/ tony on this one. My 9.4 BW is my alpine rope and has seen some excellent use, and has held up wonderfully.
Price
From SLC, UT
Joined Apr 29, 2007
324 points
Apr 25, 2010
on lead, Mean Green Cody,WY
+1 for the bluewater 9.4. mine is not only my eldo & lumpy workhorse, but it is also a top choice for alpine. my current one has seen at least a dozen alpine rock routes and too many rappels to count and looks way too good for the amount of mileage it has seen! timt
From Wheat Ridge, CO
Joined Jan 21, 2006
57 points
Apr 25, 2010
anybody know about the edelrid eagle 9.8? on paper this thing looks pretty balanced. What does real life say about it? Pete eye
From Fort Collins, CO
Joined Aug 2, 2008
205 points
Apr 26, 2010
Racking up for the 3rd pitch of Ruper
Blue Water Lightning Pro, 9.7mm 70m bi-color, dry.

Have been using this for the past 8 months and love it.

My last 3 were Sterling ropes and I couldn't keep them clean even with diligent use of a rope bag. I was washing them every 6 climbs or so. Other than the propensity to collect every speck of dirt within a 20 foot radius, they handled well.
Cindy Mitchell
Joined Jan 20, 2006
90 points
Apr 26, 2010
Cobra Kai
Mammut Infinity 9.5 - 70m

Love it.
Red
From Arizona
Joined Sep 11, 2008
1,358 points


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