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Best Alpine Climbing Shoe/Hiker
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By Prametheus
From Jackson, WY
Jul 26, 2014
Hey!

I live in Jackson, WY and am looking for the best shoe for climbing in the Tetons. Looking for a shoe that is super comfortable for 15 miles days but would be really solid on moderate pitches (5.5-5.7). I've done some research and the 5.10 camp 4 seems like it would be pretty dang solid. Do any of you nerds have any input or alpine shoes that you are way psyched on?

Happy climbing!

Prametheus

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By Kai Larson
From Sandy, Utah
Jul 26, 2014
Tour Ronde North Face
Sportiva Ganda.

Best climbing approach shoe I've ever used.

Expensive, but more durable than most, and climbs as well as a mid-level rock shoe.

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By Nick Sweeney
From Spokane, WA
Jul 26, 2014
Ice cragging, Johnston Canyon.
I really like my Adidas Terrex approach shoes.

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By michaeltarne
Jul 26, 2014
+1 on the Gandas. The Guides hike better but the low-tops climb a lot better.

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By Karl Henize
From Roaming
Jul 26, 2014
+ 1 for Ganda for alpine rock. Smears and edges well. I have relatively wide feet. When sized for climbing, I find it relatively uncomfortable for long-distance hiking.

If you have wider feet, and want 15 mi/day hiking comfort, the 5.10 tennie is a good choice, but it does not edge well.

For Alpine Ice & Mixed, the Scarpa Rebel Carbon would be a good choice. However, it does not smear well compared to the shoes above.

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By The Call Of K2 Lou
From Squamish, BC
Jul 26, 2014
A reasonable likeness of this user.
The Gandas and Guide Tennies will do a little better on the climbing. The Camp Fours are definitely the most durable of the bunch. They're bulkier and more like everyday shoes, but they can get the job done on easy climbs.

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By Prametheus
From Jackson, WY
Jul 26, 2014
Hey everyone, thank you for all of your input. The Gandas look really sweet, but I am worried that they are too climbing-centric. Time spent on rock and hiking trail will probably be 50/50, so I am looking for a solid all around shoe. It seems like the .10 Guides might be the way to go. Has anyone logged really long days with the Gandas? Is there good hiking support? If you were in my shoes (pun intended), would you get the guide tennies or the gandas (assuming price is irrelevant).

Once again, I appreciate the help. I am going to try on both of these shoes in the near future!!

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By The Call Of K2 Lou
From Squamish, BC
Jul 26, 2014
A reasonable likeness of this user.
outdoorgearlab.com/a/11088/Out...

The author wore Gandas, his partner wore unknown Scarpas (gear list towards the bottom).
OGL also has an approach shoe review:
outdoorgearlab.com/Approach-Sh...

Watching this thread with interest as I love doing scrambles and traverses. I never rope up and rarely go beyond 4th class or 5.easy, so any hiking shoe with sticky yet durable rubber works for me. I prefer something with an actual tread because, living in BC, the trail's gonna be muddy somewhere.

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By S Denny
From Carbondale, CO
Jul 26, 2014
Salewa Firetail

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By michaeltarne
Jul 26, 2014
I've done 15 mile days in my Gandas and recently I used them for a 16 mile day hauling 80 lbs. uphill. They hike great.

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By Jeff Gicklhorn
From Reno, NV
Jul 26, 2014
Having a blast on the Sound of Power - Photo by The Inspired Climber
I have a pair of the Salewea Wildfires. They're lightweight and hike extremely well but do not climb nearly as well as I'd like them to.

The mountain trainer may be more up you're ally. They are a little heavier and stiffer, but have a standard approach shoe outsole with stickier rubber.

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By fossana
From Bishop, CA
Jul 26, 2014
downclimb off the First Flatiron <br />photo by TooTallTim
Another benefit of the Guide is that they can be resoled. They don't have enough cushioning for me for hiking, sadly. I've been using the Salewa Wildfires or trail runners for extra long approaches. The Wildfires have been fine for climbing up to mid-5th (haven't tried anything harder), including in wet/snowy conditions.

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By Austin Baird
From SLC, Utah
Jul 26, 2014
Me scaring years off my mom's life
I've done the Grand a couple times in these

sportiva.com/products/footwear...

and I feel comfortable up to about 5.7 (both edging and smearing) in them. I've done 17 miles in them in a day and, while they're not super padded, I was still pretty comfortable.

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By Mikecease
Jul 26, 2014
I reccomend the LS xplorer. I used the Gandas for a couple season but have made the switch. They climb fifth class well and are dramatic better hikers than the Gandas. Also they don't fill up with rocks as easily and they are mesh so when you get them wet they dry much quicker than Gandas and other leather shoes. They're also much lighter than the Ganda which is nice. Caldwell and Honnold chose to use xplorers over Gandas down in Patagonia this season. Solid endorsement.

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By Mikecease
Jul 26, 2014
I reccomend the LS xplorer. I used the Gandas for a couple season but have made the switch. They climb fifth class well and are dramatic better hikers than the Gandas. Also they don't fill up with rocks as easily and they are mesh so when you get them wet they dry much quicker than Gandas and other leather shoes. They're also much lighter than the Ganda which is nice. Caldwell and Honnold chose to use xplorers over Gandas down in Patagonia this season. Solid endorsement.

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By Ray Pinpillage
From West Egg
Jul 26, 2014
Middle
I have an older pair of Salewa Firetail. They hike great and are very durable but the rubber is not very sticky. I switched to the Scarpa Crux, they are sticky and climb great but are very soft in the midsole. I bought the Crux for $65 on sale.

I still have a pair of older Scarpa Dahrma but they changed shapes when I had them resoled.

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By Rick Carpenter
From Banner Elk, NC
Jul 26, 2014
Dey Took Yer Jeb!!!
Kai Larson wrote:
Sportiva Ganda. Best climbing approach shoe I've ever used. Expensive, but more durable than most, and climbs as well as a mid-level rock shoe.


I second the Ganda, rad shoe

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By TacoDelRio
From All up in yo bidniss.
Jul 26, 2014
We don't kick it with bustas in khaki g-strangs.
I prefer the Gandalfs for something with maybe a little less hiking than climbing. They also feel good aid climbing, and switching from aid to free. I have big wide feet (13), and find they are at my limit for width, but that seems typical for Italian shoes. They are much more durable and better made (not that the Guide Tennie is poorly made, it's just fine).

I prefer the Guide Tennies (previous model without extended rand) for lots of walking around. They're more sensitive so I feel comfortable soloing moderate ground in them from time to time, but they are soft and don't edge well as a result. They're also more comfortable to wear on a daily basis, though a helluva lot less swag as those pimpass Gandalfs. Deeeeeyum foo, you be stylin' wif dem Gandalfs, gnawmsayin? Foreal doe.

Climb more: Gandalfs
Hike more: Guide Tennies

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By GhaMby
From Heaven
Jul 27, 2014
I want to try the scarpa vitamin on.

m.zappos.com/scarpa-vitamin-ta...

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By GhaMby
From Heaven
Jul 27, 2014
Scarpa vitamin
Scarpa vitamin

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By Prametheus
From Jackson, WY
Jul 27, 2014
The Xplorers and Wildfire's were not on my radar but I will be sure to scope those out. Thank you all a bunch!!!!

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By mt.wilson
From Denver
Jul 27, 2014
officer friendly
For 50/50 hiking climbing there is no question gandalf is best shoe. Just don't size too small. The mid soles are way more supportive than guide tennie, which is also a great shoe. But after 15 miles you're feet will be sore in guide tennie. If you're doing more hiking than climbing and/or carrying a big pack the Ganda guide is sweet, super comfortable but you can still climb. For what it's worth all the exum guides use Ganda guides up there.

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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Jul 27, 2014
El Chorro
As some have suggested, the fit is very important. Five Ten and Sportiva often have very different fits and I'd have a hard time suggesting either if you can't try themnon or are prepared to return them if they arent right.

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