Best Aider/Daisy combo
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Please redirect me if this toppic has already been covered but I searched and was not able to find much. Ive been interested in aid for a while now and just found someone to show me the ropes. Im going to wait on purchasing ascenders for now but figured it would be good to get a set of aiders and two daisys. My question is what do you guys recommend for brands and models of each. I will probably stick with aid ladders cause Im a bigger guy and I feel they would just be more comfortable, and I really dont mind the extra weight/size, I just want something comfortable. |
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This: mountainproject.com/v/big_w… |
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Dylan Weldin wrote:This: ...I haven't actually done a wall yet, but I'm in your position and I've put in the hours of Googling, supertopo-ing, and mountain projecting-ing...Just to make sure I'm reading this correctly...You've never climbed a bigwall to actually see how any of this shit works up there yet you feel compelled to offer detailed advice because you've read everything you could find on the subject on the internet? That. Is. AWESOME. Troll. Edited to add: I just went back and actually read all of your AWESOME advice and I'll offer some of my own...You're slow as shit and need to learn how to aid climb. |
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To the OP... |
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I've been using these, and they work perfectly. Can't say anything negative about them. climbtechgear.com/ascenders/ |
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To: Reginald McChufferton, thanks for following Guideline #1 |
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photocodo wrote:I was asking for personal opionions about gear choice not personal opinions about who is qualified to respond to certain posts. So that being said, if anyone actually has an opinion about aider and/or daisy preferences and why you prefer them, I would love to hear it CodySorry you don't like my answer. I've got hundreds if not thousands of aid pitches logged so, that being said, I'm certain you wouldn't be interested in my opinion on aider daisy combo's. Obviously the one you're using isn't working and your google is broken? Anyway, you seem to have it all figured out so... good luck. |
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Not a single post you have given here has anything to do with my original question. Seems like you are trying to antagonize, not help. What aiders do you prefer? and what daisys do you use and why do you prefer them. |
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I forgot to add, +1 for the Yates 5 steps. |
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photocodo wrote:Not a single post you have given here has anything to do with my original question. Seems like you are trying to antagonize, not help. What aiders do you prefer? and what daisys do you use and why do you prefer them.I make my own etriers and adjustable daisies similar to Metolius' 5 step and yates adj. daisy out of bulk webbing and some old tie down straps. Two each. I prefer this system because it's simple, versatile and I'm fast with it. And that's the system that you should use. The one you're fast and efficient with not the one some dork on the internet told you they read about someplace else on the internet. Every possible aid system (and a few that seem pretty damn impossible to me) can be found, studied and memorized by digging into the link I posted. None of that will do you any good without getting in some mileage. Although I've been using basically the same system for several years it has changed alot from when I started aiding and will continue to change as technology changes and my own personal preferences change. You will not find the information you are looking for here. |
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Buy a couple of Yates wall ladders and 2 traditional aiders. Learn to use them correctly. Simple, no fuss and fast. Dicking around with adjustables just slow me down. |
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i've done a fair amount of aid climbing (300+ pitches?) |
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Do people typically prefer nylon daisys or dyneema? The reason I ask is that I am about 235lbs (definitelly not a small boy) and I feel that the nylon might give me a big of an advantage when it comes to body weight only placements. Having a bit of stretch seems like it would be beneficial for a bigger guy like myself. Is my reasoning off? |
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photocodo wrote:Do people typically prefer nylon daisys or dyneema? The reason I ask is that I am about 235lbs (definitelly not a small boy) and I feel that the nylon might give me a big of an advantage when it comes to body weight only placements. Having a bit of stretch seems like it would be beneficial for a bigger guy like myself. Is my reasoning off? also they are cheaper which is never a bad thing...Your reasoning is way off. Your daisy could be made of steel cable and it wouldn't make a difference. Daisies should (theoretically) only take a static load. And regardless, if you do fall on your daisy, the miniscule amount of extra stretch that nylon has over dyneema is mostly irrelevant. It's gonna hurt no matter what. |
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Jon H wrote: Your reasoning is way off. Your daisy could be made of steel cable and it wouldn't make a difference. Daisies should (theoretically) only take a static load. And regardless, if you do fall on your daisy, the miniscule amount of extra stretch that nylon has over dyneema is mostly irrelevant. It's gonna hurt no matter what.I disagree. I think you can feel the difference. Daisy falls are to be avoided, of course, but they do happen and I think that you CAN feel the difference between a nylon daisy and a dyneema one. |
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Russ, Im thinking about going with your aiders, just got to save up a bit more $$ though. Cant put a price on american quality though. Thinking about an Atom Smasher too for a crag pack or single day haul bag. Love your stuff. |
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Russ Walling wrote:Two non adjustable daisy chains and a couple sets of whatever aider you like. Oh, and make sure they are FISH or yer gonna die (sometime anyway)haha +1 |
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black death wrote:TWO adjustable daisysAmen. The adjustable Yates daisies are marvelous. They are the single most important piece of gear that affects a climber's speed. When I started aid climbing I used conventional pocketed daisies and a fifi. After awhile I switched out to the adjustable daisies and noticed an instant 30% speed increase, even on the very first pitch I used them on. Note that it has to be the Yates daisies. The Metolius and Petzl ones cannot be released under load which makes it very hard to get high in the aiders and almost impossible to top step. The bad thing about the Yates daisies is that they are only rated for 5kN and they wear out quickly. Expect to only get 3 grade VI walls out of them, as compared to maybe 30+ for conventional daisies. |