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Best 5.8-5.10s at Rumney
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By photocodo
From Hendersonville, NC
Nov 9, 2012
The "crack"
I live in Asheville, NC and my wife and I are heading up to Boston in a few days for about a week. We are going to go to Rumney to climb for a day or two and I was wondering about routes. I mostly climb easy trad (5.6-5.8) but since I dont get much sport climbing around here I want to push myself on some 5.9s and 5.10s. Im looking for fairly low concequence routes that Im not going to deck on if I fall. Anyone have suggestions? We will be there next thursday and friday so hopefully the weather cooperates and we get some good climbing in. Thanks for the advice in advance.

Cody

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By Ethan L
From Santa Barbara, CA
Nov 9, 2012
Alyssa and I at Table Rock in Linville Gorge
Lonesome Dove, and Jolt. Both are amazing 10a's.

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By M Sprague
Administrator
From New England
Nov 9, 2012
Lichen head. Me, with my usual weatherbeaten, lich...
Get up early and run up to the Main Cliff before the crowds arrive. Start at the Armed and Dangerous area then head up to the main face where you should definitely get on Underdog 10a if you can. . compared to North Carolina, you will probably find the routes very well protected. Bonsai is another crag you should also check out. Centerpiece is a steep pumpy 10 there that you can push your self on. The parking lot wall has some pretty good routes in the grades you want that are very close to the car, so either get there very early or hit them at the end of the day. Besides the Main Cliff, heading higher up the hill generally gains better climbing.

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By gio92
From Easton, PA
Nov 9, 2012
I'll second Lonesome Dove and if you're up there I'd suggest Junco (5.8) as well

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By Kevin Heckeler
From Upstate New York
Nov 9, 2012
Rumney
gio92 wrote:
I'll second Lonesome Dove and if you're up there I'd suggest Junco (5.8) as well


+1

Best climbs I've done at Rumney, although I'm looking forward to getting on a bunch more next visit.

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By S. Neoh
Nov 9, 2012
I am partial to the 5.8~5.10 at A&D Wall and Main Cliff proper. So many to choose from. I think I had almost 20 on the last count.
Don't miss Metamorphosis and Underdog. Also Mellenium Falcon and Sesame Street. Got to get a plug in for Smitty's Stairway to Heaven too!!

Bonsai has 5 (4x 5.10 and 1 5.9) in a row for you to run through. Centerpiece is closer to .11a though and Peer Perssure is .10d.

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By matthewWallace
From plymouth, nh
Nov 9, 2012
Cool movement on this line
my favorite 5.8 is Metamorphasis at Armed and Dangerous Wall
my favorite 5.9 is cold shoulder aka smokestack at new wave
and you have to do underdog .10a at main cliff and lonesome dove .10a at jimmy cliff

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By M Sprague
Administrator
From New England
Nov 9, 2012
Lichen head. Me, with my usual weatherbeaten, lich...
I forgot about Smokestack. That is one of my favorites too, if it is dry. Ace of Spades is a nice 10 to the right also, and there are a few 8s and 9s nearby. if you get good weather, definitely do the hike up to the Hinterlands area one day.

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By S. Neoh
Nov 9, 2012
Smolestack = full value at .9+ like Centerpiece is = full value at .10d :):) Both are great climbs though.

Edit to add - bring a stick clip or fashion one on-site. Some first bolts are better stick-clipped if you are not solid at the grade; possibly Yoda and Obi, and No Money Down at The Meadows, which is one of my fave .10c at Rumney. Ditto for Romancing The Stone (.10c) at 5.8 Crag and Couch Potato at Below The New Wave.

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By A.Javi.Gecko
From San Diego, CA
Nov 9, 2012
V3, Castle Hill, NZ
obi wan ryobi and yoda are great 9s... check those out at Lower Darth Vader Crag if the main wall gets filled up.

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By Ming
Nov 9, 2012
At Railay East Beach in Thailand
First of all welcome to New England. The climbing at Rumney can be varied. Here are my 2 cents on what I consider to be "classic" routes for Rumney.

Best 5.8:

Junco - mountainproject.com/v/junco/10...
Metamorphosis - mountainproject.com/v/metamorp... - yeah, it's really that good that it gets mentioned again
Only if you like slabs - Bolt Line - mountainproject.com/v/bolt-lin...
Toxic Gumbo - mountainproject.com/v/toxic-gu...

So your best bet for getting a lot of quality 5.8s is go to Main Wall Left (aka Armed & Dangerous)

Best 5.9:

Cold Shoulder/Smockstack - mountainproject.com/v/smokesta... - on an off day I still fall on this route at the top - it's that stout.
Rock Du Jour (2 pitches) - mountainproject.com/v/rock-du-... - the second pitch start is FANTASTIC. Also multipitch sport is really fun.
Hippos on Parade - it's 5.8 in the guide and the consensus is 5.9, so I'm putting it here - mountainproject.com/v/hippos-o.... It's one of those routes that flows really well with a good thoughtful crux high with very safe falls.
Couch Potato - mountainproject.com/v/couch-po... - A great hard 5.9 that will be a good intro to the 5.10s at Rumney.

5.10A

So Underdog is a great 5.10A - mountainproject.com/v/underdog...
Masterpiece is like a jug-haul gym climb that got transplanted outside - mountainproject.com/v/masterpi...
Scene of the Crime - mountainproject.com/v/scene-of... - I think it's the best intro of the bunch - a hard move to get off the ground with one of two 10A moves in the (well protected) middle and you can bypass the groove near the top by going out right.

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By Steven Tata
From Amherst, MA
Nov 9, 2012
Pete's Farewell
Rumney is awesome and you'll have plenty to do in those grades. Here is my list of favorites, it probably overlaps heavily with what others have said.

5.8
-The Junco (Jimmy Cliff)
-Metamorphasis (Armed & Dangerous)

5.9
-Rock Du Jours (Iron Man Wall)- this is an awesome 2 pitch climb, with a really exciting second pitch, really fun for the grade
-Oby-Won Ryobi (Darth Vader)- pretty cool start moves

5.10
-Lonesome Dove (10a @ Jimmy Cliff)- so much fun
-Armed, Dangerous and Off My Medication (10b)- My favorite 10 at Rumney
-Underdog (10a)- Iron man wall
-Goldbug (10c/d)- Iron man wall


Hopefully this is somewhat helpful, enjoy the trip!

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By Chris Duca
From Havertown, PA
Nov 9, 2012
Finishing up Elusive Dream at the King Wall.  Adir...
Though out of the way, "B-B-Buttress" up at Yellow Knife, certainly gets my vote for best 5.9 @ Rumney, and "Sweet Polly Purebred" has replaced "Armed and Dangerous" as my favorite moderate 10 @ the Main Cliff. Regardless of where you go, you will certainly find a fun assortment of routes at your level (except for Waimea and Orange Crush).

Enjoy!

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By Jon A
From New Boston, NH
Nov 10, 2012
S. Neoh wrote:
Bonsai has 5 (4x 5.10 and 1 5.9) in a row for you to run through. Centerpiece is closer to .11a though and Peer Perssure is .10d.


I'd recommend against Peer Pressure if you are looking for low consequence climbs like the OP. The move to the second bolt is very tenuous, with a nice swing into a sharp block the result of blowing the move to the clipping stance off the monocrimp with high feet. It can get a bit scary at around the fifth bolt as well. There is a beautiful rest ledge that is awesome while you are on it, but can be intimidating when you face whipping into it on the moves from the large flake.

Overall a quality climb though.

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