I live in Asheville, NC and my wife and I are heading up to Boston in a few days for about a week. We are going to go to Rumney to climb for a day or two and I was wondering about routes. I mostly climb easy trad (5.6-5.8) but since I dont get much sport climbing around here I want to push myself on some 5.9s and 5.10s. Im looking for fairly low concequence routes that Im not going to deck on if I fall. Anyone have suggestions? We will be there next thursday and friday so hopefully the weather cooperates and we get some good climbing in. Thanks for the advice in advance.

Cody

Lonesome Dove, and Jolt. Both are amazing 10a's.

Get up early and run up to the Main Cliff before the crowds arrive. Start at the Armed and Dangerous area then head up to the main face where you should definitely get on Underdog 10a if you can. . compared to North Carolina, you will probably find the routes very well protected. Bonsai is another crag you should also check out. Centerpiece is a steep pumpy 10 there that you can push your self on. The parking lot wall has some pretty good routes in the grades you want that are very close to the car, so either get there very early or hit them at the end of the day. Besides the Main Cliff, heading higher up the hill generally gains better climbing.

I'll second Lonesome Dove and if you're up there I'd suggest Junco (5.8) as well

I am partial to the 5.8~5.10 at A&D Wall and Main Cliff proper. So many to choose from. I think I had almost 20 on the last count.
Don't miss Metamorphosis and Underdog. Also Mellenium Falcon and Sesame Street. Got to get a plug in for Smitty's Stairway to Heaven too!!

Bonsai has 5 (4x 5.10 and 1 5.9) in a row for you to run through. Centerpiece is closer to .11a though and Peer Perssure is .10d.

my favorite 5.8 is Metamorphasis at Armed and Dangerous Wall
my favorite 5.9 is cold shoulder aka smokestack at new wave
and you have to do underdog .10a at main cliff and lonesome dove .10a at jimmy cliff

I forgot about Smokestack. That is one of my favorites too, if it is dry. Ace of Spades is a nice 10 to the right also, and there are a few 8s and 9s nearby. if you get good weather, definitely do the hike up to the Hinterlands area one day.

Smolestack = full value at .9+ like Centerpiece is = full value at .10d :):) Both are great climbs though.

Edit to add - bring a stick clip or fashion one on-site. Some first bolts are better stick-clipped if you are not solid at the grade; possibly Yoda and Obi, and No Money Down at The Meadows, which is one of my fave .10c at Rumney. Ditto for Romancing The Stone (.10c) at 5.8 Crag and Couch Potato at Below The New Wave.

obi wan ryobi and yoda are great 9s... check those out at Lower Darth Vader Crag if the main wall gets filled up.

First of all welcome to New England. The climbing at Rumney can be varied. Here are my 2 cents on what I consider to be "classic" routes for Rumney.

Best 5.8:

Junco - www.mountainproject.com/v/junco/105876683
Metamorphosis - www.mountainproject.com/v/metamorphosis/105959363 - yeah, it's really that good that it gets mentioned again
Only if you like slabs - Bolt Line - www.mountainproject.com/v/bolt-line/105923805
Toxic Gumbo - www.mountainproject.com/v/toxic-gumbo/106148885

So your best bet for getting a lot of quality 5.8s is go to Main Wall Left (aka Armed & Dangerous)

Best 5.9:

Cold Shoulder/Smockstack - www.mountainproject.com/v/smokestack/105998986 - on an off day I still fall on this route at the top - it's that stout.
Rock Du Jour (2 pitches) - www.mountainproject.com/v/rock-du-jours-direct/106028627 - the second pitch start is FANTASTIC. Also multipitch sport is really fun.
Hippos on Parade - it's 5.8 in the guide and the consensus is 5.9, so I'm putting it here - www.mountainproject.com/v/hippos-on-parade/105961400. It's one of those routes that flows really well with a good thoughtful crux high with very safe falls.
Couch Potato - www.mountainproject.com/v/couch-potato/105921772 - A great hard 5.9 that will be a good intro to the 5.10s at Rumney.

5.10A

So Underdog is a great 5.10A - www.mountainproject.com/v/underdog/105877217
Masterpiece is like a jug-haul gym climb that got transplanted outside - www.mountainproject.com/v/masterpiece/105878204
Scene of the Crime - www.mountainproject.com/v/scene-of-the-crime/105947723 - I think it's the best intro of the bunch - a hard move to get off the ground with one of two 10A moves in the (well protected) middle and you can bypass the groove near the top by going out right.

Rumney is awesome and you'll have plenty to do in those grades. Here is my list of favorites, it probably overlaps heavily with what others have said.

5.8
-The Junco (Jimmy Cliff)
-Metamorphasis (Armed & Dangerous)

5.9
-Rock Du Jours (Iron Man Wall)- this is an awesome 2 pitch climb, with a really exciting second pitch, really fun for the grade
-Oby-Won Ryobi (Darth Vader)- pretty cool start moves

5.10
-Lonesome Dove (10a @ Jimmy Cliff)- so much fun
-Armed, Dangerous and Off My Medication (10b)- My favorite 10 at Rumney
-Underdog (10a)- Iron man wall
-Goldbug (10c/d)- Iron man wall


Hopefully this is somewhat helpful, enjoy the trip!

Though out of the way, "B-B-Buttress" up at Yellow Knife, certainly gets my vote for best 5.9 @ Rumney, and "Sweet Polly Purebred" has replaced "Armed and Dangerous" as my favorite moderate 10 @ the Main Cliff. Regardless of where you go, you will certainly find a fun assortment of routes at your level (except for Waimea and Orange Crush).

Enjoy!