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By Ben Brotelho
From Albany, NY
Aug 27, 2012
Epic free solo with a pack on
Gamesmanship- 5.8(+)

-Diagonal on Wallface is contender at 5.8

Quadrophenia- 5.7(+)

Afternoon Delight- 5.6

Regular Route CP slab- 5.5

By Benjaminadk
From Lake George, NY
Aug 27, 2012
best climb 5.8 or under???? Empress all the way.

By Matt Glue
From Boulder, CO
Aug 27, 2012
John Husky wrote:
The sword, 5.6. Short but cool feature. Beer Walls Labatt-ami 5.7

Gotta disagree. Those are decent, but people are naming plenty of climbs at those grades that are a LOT better.

By MaxSuffering
Aug 28, 2012
Tilmans Arete is a great two pitch 5.7 that nobodies mentioned. Lots of variations on the first pitch, all of them fun.

Quadrophenia is excellent, as are the previously mentioned 5.7 and 5.8 roues at Pitchoff and Barkeater. Arachnid Traction is one of my favorite 5.8 pitches anywhere.

Everything on Chapel Pond Slab is worthwhile, not just Regular and Empress. Check out the great 5.6 handcrack around the corner to the right of P6 of Regular Route. It arches up and right and is easily seen from the Washbowl Cliff approach. Not in the book, but really deserves some more traffic.

Butterflies Are Free to Partition is probably the best route on the Washbowl. (Okay, so Partition has been upgraded to .9-, but if you can climb most of the other 5.8s mentioned in this thread you shouldn't have much trouble, plus the gear is really good.)

If you don't mind throwing a little aid into the mix Mental Blocks (5.7, A2) is one of the best around.

If you show up to rush hour at the base of Gamesmanship and The sting check out the first pitch of Green Onion (now upgraded to 5.8). You can just barely get down with one 60m rope, a 70m allows you to TR. Skip the "character building" 5.9 above unless you enjoy bad gear and belly-flopping onto dirty ledges covered in poison ivy!


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