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Best 5.5.6.7.8 in the Dacks?

Original Post
pooler · · Albany, NY · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 20

So I want to konw what the interweb thinks. What are the best climbs in these grades in the ADK's, sport, multi pitch, whatever..... and why?

doligo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 269

Rockaholic best 5.8 finger crack!

Drake Pregnall · · Morehead, KY · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 1,045

The Regular Route on Chapel Pond Slab is a great 5.5 multi-pitch climb. As for 5.6, I think there a few pretty outstanding single pitch ones in Keene Valley. There's Big Bertha at Barkeater, North Country Club Crack at the Jewels and Gems Wall, and then Bozeman Bullet at Deadwater. At 5.7, a great three pitch climb is Pete's Farewell at Pitchoff. I have to agree that Rockahloic is an awesome 5.8 at the Beer Walls. Again at Barkeater though is Eat Yourself A Pie which goes at 5.8+. Have an awesome time out there!

Jim Lawyer · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 6,116
pooler wrote:So I want to konw what the interweb thinks. What are the best climbs in these grades in the ADK's, sport, multi pitch, whatever..... and why?
Click here for an index of routes by grade.
DannyUncanny · · Vancouver · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 100

Can't remember the name, but there was a really fun 5.8 at Barkeater that started with a traverse off a ledge, and then getting stuck in an alcove and figuring out how to contort yourself out of it. It was near something called the dog house I think. I would vote that my favourite 5.8. And Pete's Farewell for my favourite 5.7, even though I think it's really 5.8.

Bill Sacks · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 395

Check out my Google Doc of some of the best climbs in the Dacks. Sort by area, wall, grade, etc.

Drake Pregnall · · Morehead, KY · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 1,045
DannyUncanny wrote:Can't remember the name, but there was a really fun 5.8 at Barkeater that started with a traverse off a ledge, and then getting stuck in an alcove and figuring out how to contort yourself out of it. It was near something called the dog house I think. I would vote that my favourite 5.8. And Pete's Farewell for my favourite 5.7, even though I think it's really 5.8.
I think you are also talking about Eat Yourself A Pie there. And I do agree that some things at Pitchoff are pretty stiff. The El was real tough and PF Flyers shut me down. To be expected in the Dacks anywhere though I suppose.
Will Roth · · Saranac Lake, NY · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 55

I would have to say that Drake pretty much nailed it with:

5.5 Regular Route, Chapel Pond Slab
5.6 North Country Club Crack, Jewels and Jems
5.7 Pete's Farewell, Pitchoff
5.8 Rockaholic, Beer Walls

Also in the 5.7 range and just as classic as Pete's:

5.7 Quadrophenia, Hurricane

Getting into 5.8 starts to open it up a little bit:

5.8 The El, Pitchoff
5.8 Arachnid Traction, Creature Wall
5.8 Prelude into Overture, Washbowl
5.8 Hesitation, Washbowl

Those are just the ones off the top of my head. There are many others that I think are the "best"! Just don't have time to try and remember them all!

Simon Thompson · · New Paltz, NY · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 890

Even though it's usually crowded, Afternoon Delight at the Beer Walls really is an awesome sustained pitch of 5.5 and makes a fun lead. Bozeman Bullet and NCCC are must-dos in the 5.6 range. Weissner Route at Upper Washbowl has a fun pitch of 6 if you want to do something a little longer. For 7s, Quadrophenia is longer(and more fun IMO) than Pete's but is a little harder and requires a longer approach. Labatt-Ami is a good 5.7 as well, even though the bottom is crappy. My favorites in the 5.8 range are The Sting and Gamesmanship at Poko, but there are a TON of good 5.8s in the 'dacks.

Rick Huggins · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 0

Whysner route on washbowl is pretty mellow too, think it might be 5.6. 3 pitches, middle one is a big traverse. Not the best climb for its grade in keene valley but it is certainly worthwhile.

Devin Krevetski · · Northfield, VT · Joined May 2008 · Points: 140

Red Rum to The Sword at Beer Walls is a fun little outing

Valerie A B · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 37

Some I don't see mentioned...

5.5 - Catharsis (Poko)
Little Finger (Roger's Rock)

5.7 - Fun City (Barkeater)

5.8 - Diagonal (Wallface)

Kevin Heckeler · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,616

I just led NCCC and Bozemen's last weekend. Bozemen's is definitely the better overall climb, both are great 5.6 routes. ONLY issue with Bozeman's is the slight bit of runout at one section, otherwise good gear and G.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492

Last time I was at Barkeater cliff I was delightd by Yakapodoo (sp?). Thought it was a really fun pitch of 5.6.

Adam Bunger · · Someplace in the Northeast · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 1,025

North Country Club Crack is a super fun pitch. Good gear and nice movement.

Simon Thompson · · New Paltz, NY · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 890
Valerie Bachinsky wrote:Some I don't see mentioned... 5.5 - Catharsis (Poko) Little Finger (Roger's Rock) 5.7 - Fun City (Barkeater) 5.8 - Diagonal (Wallface)
Catharsis for sure. Definitely one of the best 5.5s as long as you don't mind the R rating. It is leagues better than chapel pond slab regular route which goes at the same grade but isn't sustained.
T.L. Kushner · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined May 2009 · Points: 5

how has gamesmanship not been mentioned? i know it's a pretty stiff 5.8 but it's one of the best routes in the entire northeast. roger's rock also has quite a few spectacular routes in this range but gets overlooked because of the approach via water but little finger(5.5) and little finger direct (5.7) are two really great routes to look into

pooler · · Albany, NY · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 20

Thanks everyone. Just did North Country Club Crack this weekend pretty good pitch. I have done Little Finger and agree really fun route for the grade. I hope to get on some more of these suggeasted routes soon. Thanks again

Pooler

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492
T.L. Kushner wrote:how has gamesmanship not been mentioned?
Look about 8 posts above yours.
Benjamin Brooke · · San Pedro, CA · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,050

5.5 Empress

commitment.

5.6 Bozeman Bullet

exposure and fun

5.7 Pete's Farewell

hanging over rt 73 laybacking p3

5.8 tough call. havent done gamesmanship or even been to poko ever.......all the other contenders have been mentioned i guess. my personal fav is Sleepy Hollow at Crane but i might be a lil bias. 5star at lost t is purdy good too.mmmmm Heros rocks. there are a lot of 5.8s here..........

pooler · · Albany, NY · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 20

Just did Pete's Farewell this weekend pretty awsome exposure and I agree that layback pitch is really good. Thanks for all the input keep them comming if you think of anything not mentioned.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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