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Best 5.5.6.7.8 in the Dacks?
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May 23, 2012
So I want to konw what the interweb thinks. What are the best climbs in these grades in the ADK's, sport, multi pitch, whatever..... and why? pooler
From Albany, NY
Joined Sep 28, 2009
21 points
May 23, 2012
Jose Cuervo Fruitcups dirtbag style
Rockaholic best 5.8 finger crack! doligo
Joined Sep 26, 2008
408 points
May 23, 2012
Leading up Eat Yourself A Pie 5.8+ at Barkeater in...
The Regular Route on Chapel Pond Slab is a great 5.5 multi-pitch climb. As for 5.6, I think there a few pretty outstanding single pitch ones in Keene Valley. There's Big Bertha at Barkeater, North Country Club Crack at the Jewels and Gems Wall, and then Bozeman Bullet at Deadwater. At 5.7, a great three pitch climb is Pete's Farewell at Pitchoff. I have to agree that Rockahloic is an awesome 5.8 at the Beer Walls. Again at Barkeater though is Eat Yourself A Pie which goes at 5.8+. Have an awesome time out there! Drake Pregnall
From Boulder, CO
Joined Dec 23, 2011
1,072 points
Administrator
May 23, 2012
pooler wrote:
So I want to konw what the interweb thinks. What are the best climbs in these grades in the ADK's, sport, multi pitch, whatever..... and why?


Click here for an index of routes by grade.
Jim Lawyer
Joined Feb 19, 2006
1,281 points
May 23, 2012
Can't remember the name, but there was a really fun 5.8 at Barkeater that started with a traverse off a ledge, and then getting stuck in an alcove and figuring out how to contort yourself out of it. It was near something called the dog house I think. I would vote that my favourite 5.8. And Pete's Farewell for my favourite 5.7, even though I think it's really 5.8. DannyUncanny
From Vancouver
Joined Aug 27, 2010
78 points
May 23, 2012
Chapel Pond
Check out my Google Doc of some of the best climbs in the Dacks. Sort by area, wall, grade, etc. Bill Sacks
From Sacramento, CA
Joined Jan 2, 2012
406 points
May 23, 2012
Leading up Eat Yourself A Pie 5.8+ at Barkeater in...
DannyUncanny wrote:
Can't remember the name, but there was a really fun 5.8 at Barkeater that started with a traverse off a ledge, and then getting stuck in an alcove and figuring out how to contort yourself out of it. It was near something called the dog house I think. I would vote that my favourite 5.8. And Pete's Farewell for my favourite 5.7, even though I think it's really 5.8.


I think you are also talking about Eat Yourself A Pie there. And I do agree that some things at Pitchoff are pretty stiff. The El was real tough and PF Flyers shut me down. To be expected in the Dacks anywhere though I suppose.
Drake Pregnall
From Boulder, CO
Joined Dec 23, 2011
1,072 points
May 23, 2012
Ishinca Base Camp, Peru
I would have to say that Drake pretty much nailed it with:

5.5 Regular Route, Chapel Pond Slab
5.6 North Country Club Crack, Jewels and Jems
5.7 Pete's Farewell, Pitchoff
5.8 Rockaholic, Beer Walls

Also in the 5.7 range and just as classic as Pete's:

5.7 Quadrophenia, Hurricane

Getting into 5.8 starts to open it up a little bit:

5.8 The El, Pitchoff
5.8 Arachnid Traction, Creature Wall
5.8 Prelude into Overture, Washbowl
5.8 Hesitation, Washbowl

Those are just the ones off the top of my head. There are many others that I think are the "best"! Just don't have time to try and remember them all!
Will Roth
From Saranac Lake, NY
Joined Dec 5, 2009
12 points
May 24, 2012
Even though it's usually crowded, Afternoon Delight at the Beer Walls really is an awesome sustained pitch of 5.5 and makes a fun lead. Bozeman Bullet and NCCC are must-dos in the 5.6 range. Weissner Route at Upper Washbowl has a fun pitch of 6 if you want to do something a little longer. For 7s, Quadrophenia is longer(and more fun IMO) than Pete's but is a little harder and requires a longer approach. Labatt-Ami is a good 5.7 as well, even though the bottom is crappy. My favorites in the 5.8 range are The Sting and Gamesmanship at Poko, but there are a TON of good 5.8s in the 'dacks. Simon Thompson
From New Paltz, NY
Joined Apr 7, 2011
886 points
May 24, 2012
Whysner route on washbowl is pretty mellow too, think it might be 5.6. 3 pitches, middle one is a big traverse. Not the best climb for its grade in keene valley but it is certainly worthwhile. Rick Huggins
Joined Aug 9, 2009
0 points
May 24, 2012
Red Rum to The Sword at Beer Walls is a fun little outing Devin Krevetski
From West Woodstock, VT
Joined May 3, 2008
57 points
May 24, 2012
Roger's Rock, Lake George, NY
Some I don't see mentioned...

5.5 - Catharsis (Poko)
Little Finger (Roger's Rock)

5.7 - Fun City (Barkeater)

5.8 - Diagonal (Wallface)
Valerie Bachinsky
From West Sand Lake, NY
Joined Jun 14, 2010
30 points
May 25, 2012
Rumney
I just led NCCC and Bozemen's last weekend. Bozemen's is definitely the better overall climb, both are great 5.6 routes. ONLY issue with Bozeman's is the slight bit of runout at one section, otherwise good gear and G. Kevin Heckeler
From Upstate New York
Joined Jul 10, 2010
1,497 points
May 26, 2012
Last time I was at Barkeater cliff I was delightd by Yakapodoo (sp?). Thought it was a really fun pitch of 5.6. Gunkiemike
Joined Jul 29, 2009
1,716 points
May 26, 2012
Black Boulder Problem, sent after a generous skin ...
North Country Club Crack is a super fun pitch. Good gear and nice movement. AdamB
From Chattanooga, TN
Joined Jul 17, 2008
1,052 points
May 26, 2012
Valerie Bachinsky wrote:
Some I don't see mentioned... 5.5 - Catharsis (Poko) Little Finger (Roger's Rock) 5.7 - Fun City (Barkeater) 5.8 - Diagonal (Wallface)


Catharsis for sure. Definitely one of the best 5.5s as long as you don't mind the R rating. It is leagues better than chapel pond slab regular route which goes at the same grade but isn't sustained.
Simon Thompson
From New Paltz, NY
Joined Apr 7, 2011
886 points
May 27, 2012
how has gamesmanship not been mentioned? i know it's a pretty stiff 5.8 but it's one of the best routes in the entire northeast. roger's rock also has quite a few spectacular routes in this range but gets overlooked because of the approach via water but little finger(5.5) and little finger direct (5.7) are two really great routes to look into T.L. Kushner
Joined May 21, 2009
7 points
May 29, 2012
Thanks everyone. Just did North Country Club Crack this weekend pretty good pitch. I have done Little Finger and agree really fun route for the grade. I hope to get on some more of these suggeasted routes soon. Thanks again

Pooler
pooler
From Albany, NY
Joined Sep 28, 2009
21 points
May 29, 2012
T.L. Kushner wrote:
how has gamesmanship not been mentioned?


Look about 8 posts above yours.
Gunkiemike
Joined Jul 29, 2009
1,716 points
Aug 26, 2012
Me
5.5 Empress

commitment.

5.6 Bozeman Bullet

exposure and fun

5.7 Pete's Farewell

hanging over rt 73 laybacking p3

5.8 tough call. havent done gamesmanship or even been to poko ever.......all the other contenders have been mentioned i guess. my personal fav is Sleepy Hollow at Crane but i might be a lil bias. 5star at lost t is purdy good too.mmmmm Heros rocks. there are a lot of 5.8s here..........
Benjaminadk
From Lake George, NY
Joined Apr 8, 2012
1,088 points
Aug 27, 2012
Just did Pete's Farewell this weekend pretty awsome exposure and I agree that layback pitch is really good. Thanks for all the input keep them comming if you think of anything not mentioned. pooler
From Albany, NY
Joined Sep 28, 2009
21 points
Aug 27, 2012
Will Roth wrote:
I would have to say that Drake pretty much nailed it with: 5.5 Regular Route, Chapel Pond Slab 5.6 North Country Club Crack, Jewels and Jems 5.7 Pete's Farewell, Pitchoff 5.8 Rockaholic, Beer Walls Also in the 5.7 range and just as classic as Pete's: 5.7 Quadrophenia, Hurricane Getting into 5.8 starts to open it up a little bit: 5.8 The El, Pitchoff 5.8 Arachnid Traction, Creature Wall 5.8 Prelude into Overture, Washbowl 5.8 Hesitation, Washbowl Those are just the ones off the top of my head. There are many others that I think are the "best"! Just don't have time to try and remember them all!


Nailed it! Great list. Quadrophenia is my favorite 5.7 in the Dacks, possibly ever. All of those routes are must-do.

I'll also suggest visiting Barkeaters for an amazing selection of 5.8s. Eat Yourself a Pie (admittedly a sandbag at 5.8++) is great. Mr Clean (5.8) nearby is a short but excellent splitter/corner; good entry-level 5.8. Fun City (5.7) is great too. Various other good routes of the grade also found at said cliff, most/all with bolt lower-offs. mountainproject.com/v/fun-city...
JCM
From Seattle, WA
Joined Jun 9, 2008
53 points
Aug 27, 2012
The sword, 5.6. Short but cool feature. Beer Walls

Labatt-ami 5.7
John Husky
Joined May 10, 2011
3 points
Aug 27, 2012
taking a break from climbing shoes before rapping ...
I gotta give some love to Great Chimney (5.6) at Pitchoff (it has the same start as Pete's Farewell). The chimney pitches are super fun, and that walk across the fin on the last pitch makes for an awesome position. Gear is pretty good, but there are some crumbly spots on P2. MaraC
Joined May 11, 2011
12 points
Aug 27, 2012
I can comfortably say The Sting is probably my favorite 5.8 in the ADKs. Pete's Farewell is a great 5.7, especially the last pitch, which might be the best pitch of 5.7 in the ADK's. Eat Yourself a Pie would solidly take the 5.8++++ category.

Honorable mentions go to Arachnid Traction, Country Club Crack, Quadrophenia, Gamesmanship, Rockaholic, Fun City etc and I can see why many people put those on the top of their lists.

If we wanted to change the topic a bit, I would put Barkeater as the best crag for climbers in the 5.6-5.10 range.
mmainer
Joined Jun 22, 2010
106 points
Aug 27, 2012
mmainer wrote:
If we wanted to change the topic a bit, I would put Barkeater as the best crag for climbers in the 5.6-5.10 range.


Agreed (at least for single pitch).

Another great route in the 5.8 range is The Disputed at Pitchoff.
JCM
From Seattle, WA
Joined Jun 9, 2008
53 points


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