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Best 5.12 sport routes in Joshua Tree?
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By Ben Scott
From Fort Collins, CO
Feb 19, 2010
my alter ego
I've never been there before.
Somebody told me all the sport routes at J-tree suck?
That can't be true, right? Whats your top 5?

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By Red
From Arizona
Feb 19, 2010
Cobra Kai
J-Tree's not really known for it's sport man.

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By Hank Caylor
Administrator
From Golden, CO
Feb 19, 2010
Pure bliss..
Sole Fusion

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By caughtinside
From Oakland CA
Feb 19, 2010
Not sure if you knew this, but the 'best routes for you in this area' feature of MP really shines when checking places out, especially in a place like josh with thousands of routes.

Josh sport routes, 12a-12d, at least 2 of 4 stars on MP:
mountainproject.com/scripts/Se...

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By PRRose
From Boulder
Feb 19, 2010
A couple that I remember enjoying are Bikini Whale and Satanic Mechanic.

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By Ben Ricketts
From Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 19, 2010
I don't think that the sport routes in Josh suck. There just isn't that many of them comparatively speaking. I haven't done many in the 5.12 range but recommend

Satanic Mechanic
Rap Bolters Are Week
Bikini Whale

Also in the 11 range
Janes Addiction
Roller Coaster
Bebop Tango

If you don't lead gear routes but can set up a TR on gear Leave It To Beaver is a really good route.

Try leading some of the easy slab routes if you get bored of sport routes. Sooo many good routes there. I gotta start planning a trip...

Ben

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By camhead
From Vandalia, Appalachia
Feb 19, 2010
You stay away from mah pig!
Just rappel "Leave it to Beaver" and preplace the gear. Voila: SPORT ROUTE!

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By C Miller
Administrator
Feb 19, 2010
Sugar Pine (Pinus lambertiana), Black Mountain
A couple of questions to narrow it down -

Easy or hard 5.12's?
Do you mind slabby routes or are you looking for something a little steeper with holds?
Do you want a quick approach or mind hiking a bit?

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By fubar
From Babylon
Feb 19, 2010
Looking for sport routes at Josh is a little strange, since it's not the ethic of the park. If by sport you mean bolted (not necessarily overbolted), my favorites are The Manly Dike, Gunslinger, Ionic Strength, 5 Crying Cowboys, Tic Tic Boom, and Satanic Mechanic. Though some of these have a little gear, older bolts, and run-outs. But this is what makes them worth doing, and what makes Josh special. Rather than looking for what it doesn't offer, why not roll with the terrain a little?

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By Allen Hill
From FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Feb 20, 2010
Slick Rock put in
Good one Hank

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By Alex Shainman
From Boulder, CO
Feb 20, 2010
Is there any good gear or solid holds up here???
Josh has many routes with bolts but unfortunately many classic looking lines have loose, crumbling or just broken holds...DOH!

These classic routes should still be intact and will get you stoked!

True 5.12 "sport" routes (face/steep, powerful, fixed pro):
  • Tic Tic Boom 12a (crimpy face/steep slab)
  • Satanic Mechanic 12b (steep, funky holds/crack features)
  • Skinhead Arete 12c (killer overhanging arete!!!)
  • Father Figure 12d (unique and steep, slots and slopey crimps)

Multi-pitch or weird/sporty/very steep slab and classic:
  • Love Goddess 12a (deceptively slopey shelves)
  • Sole Fusion 12b (odd/cool geology. power-scrunch moves)
  • Warpath 12c (steep face cranks to steep slab, 2-3 pitches) [do Ionic Strength 12a (sweet arete!) on hike out]
  • Pope On A Rope 12d (sustained scoops, slopes, crimps and a friction move or two...)

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