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Best 5.12 sport routes in Joshua Tree?

Original Post
Ben Scott · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Sep 2007 · Points: 3,932

I've never been there before.
Somebody told me all the sport routes at J-tree suck?
That can't be true, right? Whats your top 5?

Red · · Tacoma, Toyota · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 1,625

J-Tree's not really known for it's sport man.

Hank Caylor · · Livin' in the Junk! · Joined Dec 2003 · Points: 643

Sole Fusion

PRRose · · Boulder · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 0

A couple that I remember enjoying are Bikini Whale and Satanic Mechanic.

Ben Ricketts · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 41

I don't think that the sport routes in Josh suck. There just isn't that many of them comparatively speaking. I haven't done many in the 5.12 range but recommend

Satanic Mechanic
Rap Bolters Are Week
Bikini Whale

Also in the 11 range
Janes Addiction
Roller Coaster
Bebop Tango

If you don't lead gear routes but can set up a TR on gear Leave It To Beaver is a really good route.

Try leading some of the easy slab routes if you get bored of sport routes. Sooo many good routes there. I gotta start planning a trip...

Ben

camhead · · Vandalia, Appalachia · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 1,240

Just rappel "Leave it to Beaver" and preplace the gear. Voila: SPORT ROUTE!

C Miller · · CA · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 88,165

A couple of questions to narrow it down -

Easy or hard 5.12's?
Do you mind slabby routes or are you looking for something a little steeper with holds?
Do you want a quick approach or mind hiking a bit?

fubar · · Babylon · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 55

Looking for sport routes at Josh is a little strange, since it's not the ethic of the park. If by sport you mean bolted (not necessarily overbolted), my favorites are The Manly Dike, Gunslinger, Ionic Strength, 5 Crying Cowboys, Tic Tic Boom, and Satanic Mechanic. Though some of these have a little gear, older bolts, and run-outs. But this is what makes them worth doing, and what makes Josh special. Rather than looking for what it doesn't offer, why not roll with the terrain a little?

Allen Hill · · FIve Points, Colorado and Pine · Joined Jun 2004 · Points: 1,410

Good one Hank

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Sport Climbing
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