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Best 5.12 on the East Coast
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By Ross Henry
May 28, 2012
me in seneca
Hi all, want to break into the 5.12 sport range, and want to climb the best 5.12 on the east coast. What are some thoughts.

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By JJNS
May 28, 2012
Psycho Wrangler at NRG and Mercy the Huff at RRG.

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By Dom
Administrator
From New Brunswick Canada
May 28, 2012
Moby dick 5.11-
Pretty sure the Commonwealth of Kentucky is not on the East Coast?

I'll say Technosurfing in Rumney is awesome but may not be a good first 12 as it is quite hard for the grade (or so I thought)

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By S. Neoh
May 28, 2012
Pockets of Resistance is a popular first 5.12 at NRG. Ditto for Yowsah, also NRG. Further North, there is Romper Room at Sundown, NH and Social Outcast / Social Distortion at Rumney. Techno at Rumney and Eyeless in Gaza at Sundown are both good but harder at .12b. There are also a couple of good .12 candidates at Shagg Pond in ME if you are so inclined. Good luck.

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By JJNS
May 28, 2012
Dom wrote:
Pretty sure the Commonwealth of Kentucky is not on the East Coast? I'll say Technosurfing in Rumney is awesome but may not be a good first 12 as it is quite hard for the grade (or so I thought)


Looks like the OP is from Ohio.

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By camhead
From Vandalia, Appalachia
May 28, 2012
You stay away from mah pig!
JasonJNSmith wrote:
Psycho Wrangler at NRG and Mercy the Huff at RRG.


This is the correct answer. Honorable mention goes to Solstice at the Obed, Check Your Grip at the Red, and Lost Souls at the New.

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By Ross Henry
May 28, 2012
me in seneca
hey thanks all for the routes, helps a lot...all suggestions are welcome. I meant to say, the east, mistakenly added coast.

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By Kenny Clark
From State College, PA
May 28, 2012
I've had the same question for a while. I've had my eye on Reckless Abandon at Summersville Lake.... There are a slew of warmups at nearby cliffs. This could help if it takes more than a few tries. It seems like it would get really crowded though. Thoughts, anyone?

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By Sam Stephens
May 29, 2012
Top half of Melifluous
Will Anglin wrote:
I was really impressed with "Low Brow" at the Meadow River.


Low brow is cool, but far from the best. Depth charge right around the corner is stellar. Hellbound for Glory is amazing.

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By camhead
From Vandalia, Appalachia
May 29, 2012
You stay away from mah pig!
Kenny Clark wrote:
I've had the same question for a while. I've had my eye on Reckless Abandon at Summersville Lake.... There are a slew of warmups at nearby cliffs. This could help if it takes more than a few tries. It seems like it would get really crowded though. Thoughts, anyone?


Reckless is not one of the easier 12s in the region; I consider it more 12b. It is an awesome line, though, and a super worthy project. The only drawback is that at the crux, it is possible to traverse way left and around an arete to easier terrain. Remember, if you ever have to flick your rope to clear the arete roof, you are off route and haven't done the crux.

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By mission
May 29, 2012
Lots of NRG suggestions here. I would say that Pockets of Resistance is indeed a popular first 12, but a mediocre (for the New) climb that I wouldn't recommend driving from Ohio in order to try. Psychowrangler is incredibly good. I personally don't like Reckless, but it is by the lake at least and you'll have no trouble persuading a partner of almost any ability to climb there. I'll add Starry, which, although 12b, has fairly easy cruxes (all V2 or below) for a NRG 12.

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By Darren in Vegas
From Las Vegas, NV
May 29, 2012
Skiing around.
I did not do that many 12's out east, and all of them were at NRG and Obed, but here are the ones I liked best from there.
NRG
Narcissus (12-)
New World Order (12-)
Bullet the New Sky (12-)
Slash and Burn (12+)

Obed
too many to name that were awesome but some stand outs are
Solstice (12-)
Rage (12)
Rules of Engagement (12)
Rumors of War (12-)
Inner Circle (12-)
Barbed Wire Lingerie (12-)

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By jarthur
From Westminster, CO
May 29, 2012
My dogs got ups yo!
No mention of Narcissus at Summersville Lake? This route has it all. Steep, thuggy, stays dry in the rain, and an awesome setting. Best route I'd ever done at the NRG.

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By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
May 29, 2012
Topo - Cliffs in Green
Flesh for Lulu and Social Outcast at Rumney are also classic 12's. Shaggin Wagon @ Shag Crag is pretty amazing too... shorter though.

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By Stone Nude
May 29, 2012
When dumb people have disposable income, hilarity ...
Narcissus IS evil, what a chunk of stone.

This isn't helpful, most likely, but some of the best .12s I ever got on were at Hidden Valley, near Abingdon, VA. No guide, just a photocopied handful of pages, but that place is STEEP! Worth a stop-thru if you're ever heading near Virginia Tech. The Planetarium area there was the steepest place I'd ever seen until I got to the Lode. 30 foot horizontal roofs, no f'n joke, son!

If you're just looking to break into the grade, I'd run laps on a TR til you can climb when you're flamed-out pumped, then go climb any of the 500 or so great .12s at the Red. There are great ones at crags both mobbed and empty, take your pick. Many of my favorites were at Torrent.

I found the New .12s much more techy than the Red stuff, but I'm strong on crimps, so I enjoyed them both. Bullet the New Sky(thanks for the TR, Darren) was my first sampling of 5.12 in WV, a pretty unforgettable route for sure. Chunky Monkey@Beauty, Uninflatable Ewe+Preparation H@Kaymoor are great as well.

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By Sam Stephens
May 29, 2012
Top half of Melifluous
The Dread Pirate Killis wrote:
Narcissus IS evil, what a chunk of stone. This isn't helpful, most likely, but some of the best .12s I ever got on were at Hidden Valley, near Abingdon, VA. No guide, just a photocopied handful of pages, but that place is STEEP! Worth a stop-thru if you're ever heading near Virginia Tech. The Planetarium area there was the steepest place I'd ever seen until I got to the Lode. 30 foot horizontal roofs, no f'n joke, son! If you're just looking to break into the grade, I'd run laps on a TR til you can climb when you're flamed-out pumped, then go climb any of the 500 or so great .12s at the Red. There are great ones at crags both mobbed and empty, take your pick. Many of my favorites were at Torrent. I found the New .12s much more techy than the Red stuff, but I'm strong on crimps, so I enjoyed them both. Bullet the New Sky(thanks for the TR, Darren) was my first sampling of 5.12 in WV, a pretty unforgettable route for sure. Chunky Monkey@Beauty, Uninflatable Ewe+Preparation H@Kaymoor are great as well.


HV is closed to the public.

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By Kilroywashere!
From Harrisonburg, Virginia
Jun 4, 2012
Kilroy
Freaky Styley, 12a, endless wall, NRG, so fun, so good. do it. right meow

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