This is a great route although it is not very protectable. To quote Gerry Roach, "protection may seem lacking when it is wanted the most". I would give it a VS, but both Roach and Rossiter gave it an S, and who am I to argue with them....
If interested in doing the route without the death risk, you can climb the South Face route, rappel to the bottom of the chimney above the overhang and top rope the first two pitches from there (60 meter rope)....
The rock is great, the moves are interesting and clean: some edging, some jamming, some friction and if you choose so, even some laybacking....
Start at the low point of the rock and scramble up an easy water groove to the bottom of the overhang. Traverse left and up an easy ramp at the bottom of the overhang and belay at a small tree.
The second pitch (crux) climbs the overhang just left of the tree. This will be your last pro for a long time (and won't stop you from cratering on the ramp from above the overhang...).
Crank up the overhang (burly 5.6) and make a delicate traverse up and left eventually reaching a left-facing flake. This flake is some 40 feet above and left of the overhang and will provide some pro with mid/large sized cams.
From the top of the flake, you can continue up unprotected 5.6 traversing later to the right or friction traverse right and up (5.5). Either way you should end up with another 40 foot runout and at the base of the chimney. Sling a large horn and take a deep breath.
From here, climb the face on the left of the chimney to the ledge below the summit block (5.3 150 feet), and scramble up the left side of the summit block and up to the summit (5.2 50 feet).
To descend, scramble north and West onto the Mallory Cave trail.
Standard Flatiron rack. Although you will not get to use it much....
Warren Teissier on the arete of the summit block -...
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Mar 10, 2003
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
I did this route only slightly differently and found a way to protect it a little better than described above. The gear as we did was more akin to an average Flatiron route. Scramble to the small tree... if you doubt you've found the right tree, look to the right- there should be a nearly perfect, 2" round, deep pocket in the rock just to the right at chest level. Climb up left of the tree (or right of it, for that matter) and continue up some 30' or so feet, placing some good small cams and stoppers up there, just before hitting an awful, scaly, dark red "blotch" of rock. At that point, cut hard left out to the South edge of the E. Face and continue for the balance of 60 or 70 meters to a good belay (either way). Pitch two will get you to the top as Warren describes the top of this climb.
|By Leo Paik|
From: Westminster, Colorado
May 8, 2010
Trivia: in the 11th century, Vikings used Amanita muscaria, a hallucinogenic mushroom, to create "berserker" rages. They drank tea from this mushroom prior to battle to create the hallucinogenic sensation that they were becoming big and strong and would even drink other's urine (which has at times even higher concentrations of the psychoactive metabolites) to get this effect. Apparently old Norse writings cite "then hold a wooden bowl to receive the urine, which they drank off greedily, as having still some virtue of the mushroom in it, and by this way they would also get drunk."
|By Dave Clark 5.10|
From: Golden, CO
Mar 23, 2011
Leo, I'll never trust your Gatorade again.
Oct 25, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
The second 'pitch' is pretty engaging for an east face Flatiron route. Good rock and delicate, committing moves. Better be solid at the grade and possess good route-finding skills.
A good one for the Dino Mt. solo circuit. If you are climbing it this way, it's easy to avoid the first (dirty, forgettable) pitch by traversing to the little tree from the top of the ferned gully to the north.