one of the most intimidating sections of sea-cliff in the West Country; its tiered overhangs seemingly impossible to breakthrough. However, the rock is some.of the most climbable to be found anywhere, and is peppered with jugs and handrails that allow the outrageous over- hangs and walls to be scaled.The Old Redoubt holds some of the most sought-after long sea-cliff classics in the UK, but increasingly its flanking sea-level traverses, tackled as deep water solos, are catching up the popularity of the 'roped' routes. Should the sea-conditions or tides restrict access to the base of the Old Redoubt, the nearby Red Wall area offers some short, but pleasant pilches.
Follow signs for Brixham. On approaching the town, pick up the brown tourist signs for Berry Head and follow them to a car park on the headland (fee). Approaches to each cliff are described in the relevant section.
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Berry head:
Dreadnought 5.10 Trad, 3 pitches, 80 feet
Featured Route For Berry head
Dreadnought 5.10 International : United Kingdom : ... : Berry head
1) 5c, 36m. Follow Moonraker to the chockstone at the top of I its steep crack. Traverse right, out across the lip of the cave to a corner, and climb this to a roof. Traverse rightwards beneath the roof via some constricted moves to an oíd peg and continue for 3m to a footledge and hanging stance. Friend 3 will be useful for the belay. 2) 5b, 20m. Move back left to a steep corner/groove and climbit to an overhang at its end. Move out left and up to a deep slot before climbing the wall above, le...[more] Browse More Classics in International