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Berry head
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Berry head  


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Location: 50.39686, -3.4891 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: CrimperE6 on Oct 31, 2012
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climbing upto the belay cave of pitch 2

bird ban MORE INFO >>>

Description 

one of the most intimidating sections of sea-cliff in the West Country; its tiered overhangs seemingly impossible to breakthrough. However, the rock is some.of the most climbable to be found anywhere, and is peppered with jugs and handrails that allow the outrageous over- hangs and walls to be scaled.The Old Redoubt holds some of the most sought-after long sea-cliff classics in the UK, but increasingly its flanking sea-level traverses, tackled as deep water solos, are catching up the popularity of the 'roped' routes. Should the sea-conditions or tides restrict access to the base of the Old Redoubt, the nearby Red Wall area offers some short, but pleasant pilches.

Getting There 

Follow signs for Brixham. On approaching the town, pick up the brown tourist signs for Berry Head and follow them to a car park on the headland (fee). Approaches to each cliff are described in the relevant section.

Climbing Season



Weather station 10.3 miles from here

1 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Berry head
preparing to traverse the cave

Dreadnought 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b  Europe : United Kingdom : ... : Berry head
1) 5c, 36m. Follow Moonraker to the chockstone at the top of I its steep crack. Traverse right, out across the lip of the cave to a corner, and climb this to a roof. Traverse rightwards beneath the roof via some constricted moves to an oíd peg and continue for 3m to a footledge and hanging stance. Friend 3 will be useful for the belay. 2) 5b, 20m. Move back left to a steep corner/groove and climbit to an overhang at its end. Move out left and up to a deep slot before climbing the wall above, le...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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