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Pena de Bernal
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El Lado O scuro de la Luna S 
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Bernalina 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 7 pitches, 500', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: 
Season: cool weather
Page Views: 1,409
Submitted By: manuel rangel on Mar 13, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Emilio Plascencio following pitch one of Bernalina...

Description 

It was hard to say where the crux was, it was so much fun. Great holds, fat bolts and good climbing up a clean wall. The 4-7 pitches can be tricky due to the low angle and sparsity of bolts but look around.

Location 

On the east face, first line of red hangers where the trail meets the face. Rap the NE side by walking down and right. Alternatively, you can downclimb the via ferrata to the trail.

Protection 

1/2" bolts, bolted anchors


Photos of Bernalina Slideshow Add Photo
leon islas seconding the first long (linked) pitch...
leon islas seconding the first long (linked) pitch...

Comments on Bernalina Add Comment
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By Anthony Anagnostou
From: nyc
Dec 24, 2008
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

far be it from me to claim the ability to fully decipher the mexican climbing beta, but i think that the route with the red hangers is actually "El Lado Oscuro de la Luna", a fun sustained moderate face climb to the right of bernalina.

as far as i can tell, bernalina is the first line of bolts you get to, where the trail hits the rock. there is a small semi-detached pillar/flake at the start where you could get some handjams off the ground. the hangers are silver, and the bolts are spaced out a bit (as they often are on gentle moderates such as this) requiring you really be able to climb it. the angle is way too low and the bolts too far apart to try this thing if you aren't ready.

but not to worry, bernalina (as i describe it) is a seriously friendly outing. the rock is excellent, the angle is easy on the arms, and although i am not the right person to guess, i thought it was more like 5.6. my partner thought 5.7. one thing we could agree on is that it was good clean fun.

rough beta:
-pitch one is most of a 60m rope, passing a bolted anchor about halfway.
-pitch two is another long pitch, although we didnt see an anchor in the middle.
-pitch three is fourth class to an anchor at a ledge, followed by some steeper climbing above to an anchor on the shoulder. to link these two short pitches into one it requires about 15 feet of simulcimbing where both climbers are on easy (4th or 5.0) ground, with a 60m rope. if you find the stuff above the anchor at all intimidating, you should break this up, as the long fourth class below will give you a crappy belay as you climb the 5th class stuff over the ledge.
-pitch four: move the anchor to the base of the next wall (one bolt to stop you flying if your partner pitches before the first clip) and climb a shorter pitch to an anchor on slabby terrain. walk to top.

by my guess, 14 draws will allow you to link anything you want, although id suggest that a handful of them are extending draws. the bolts look good. nothing awful, and nothing smaller than 3/8". the anchors are rigged to rappel, although im pretty sure you would need two ropes and it might be a catchy rap with all the positive features and low-angle terrain.
By Jose Marmolejo
May 2, 2013

Hey so I read its possible to rappel with just one rope which I found out in some mexican sites regarding this climb but I just wanted to double check? does anybody know?
By Gunkswest
Jan 6, 2015
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

As of 01-2015:
Bernalina is a fun, moderate route to a great summit.

Start at the point where the main hiking trail meets the south face of Pena de Bernal. There's a small clearing just off the left side of the trail where you can gear up.

P1: Follow bolts up and left past an intermediate anchor to a second anchor (5.6 PG; 50m).

P2: Climb more or less straight up to another anchor (5.7- PG13; 45m).

P3: Do a very low 5th class or 4th class pitch past three or four bolts to a ledge, then walk back a short distance to reach the base of the upper wall (4th class; 50m).

P4: Follow bolts up lower angled rock to the summit (5.5; 50m).

NOTES:
A) You can rappel P1 as described above with one 60m rope (two rappels).
B) There is no intermediate anchor on P2 as described above, so if you wished to rappel the route from this point or higher, you'd need two ropes.
C) The start of P2 as described is arguably the crux. If you blew clipping the second bolt, it could end badly (hence my PG13 rating).
D)The descent from the summit of Pena de Bernal can easily be done with one 60m rope (two rappels) near the line of the via ferrata.
By Tom MacD
Mar 8, 2015

Fair enough on 5.7. That whole rating thing anyway makes about as much sense as rating wines on a 100 point scale (which I can say as a wine bar owner is the most hair-brained thing since snake oil). I don't, however, find a single stretch of PG13. Bolts are a plenty, and the only time they aren't it's 4th class. And while it can be 4 pitches, those include a few serious rope-stretchers & link ups. For a more detailed look at the standard Bernalina route go here:
rockclimbing.com/routes/North_...
I've climbed it a half dozen times, including a simul-climb to set a speed record on it (by me, aged 48 and my partner aged 55, so this record is dying to be easily broken). It is a classic - this is, after all, the 3rd largest free-standing monolith in the world (after Gibraltar and Rio's Sugarloaf). So if you find your self anywhere near here, grab your gear and get on this. And email me (tom@websterwinebar.com) and I'll join you or at least show you where to get the best gorditas in town. And I can show you some other great spots in the area around San Miguel de Allende where I live. Viva Mexico!
By Tom MacD
Mar 8, 2015

Fair enough on 5.7. That whole rating thing anyway makes about as much sense as rating wines on a 100 point scale (which I can say as a wine bar owner is the most hair-brained thing since snake oil). I digress. But a bit more accurate look at Bernalina can be found here:
rockclimbing.com/routes/North_...
I've climbed it a half dozen times, including a simul-climb to set a speed record on it (by me, aged 48 and my partner aged 55, so this record is dying to be easily broken). It is a classic - this is, after all, the 3rd largest free-standing monolith in the world (after Gibraltar and Rio's Sugarloaf). So if you find your self anywhere near here, grab your gear and get on this. And email me (tom@websterwinebar.com) and I'll join you or at least show you where to get the best gorditas in town. And I can show you some other great spots in the area around San Miguel de Allende where I live. Viva Mexico!
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