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YDS: 5.14a French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ ZA: 32 British: E8 7a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.14a French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ ZA: 32 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Chris Sharma
Page Views: 651
Submitted By: Kyle Queener on Feb 8, 2013

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Gustav Zacharias - ‹bermensch progress!

Emergency Closure Announced - Resurrection Wall MORE INFO >>>


A Chris Sharma 5.14a


This is the overhanging arete on the East Side of the Monolith between Lard Butt and Hot Lava Lucy.


Five bolts lead to a two bolt anchor

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By Kyle Queener
From: Monterey, California
Mar 29, 2014

Great route, good movement. I found I liked to bring my stick clip for the start. Doesn't really let up and I would say there are not any rests. Just enough there to clip and maybe grab chalk. Climbs more like a long boulder problem. Consensus seems to be 5.14a.
By Zacharias
Mar 16, 2015

What was the hold that broke that made it go from 13d to 14a? any ideas? Fun route with about a billion possible ways to go about it. Felt good on it and would love to get back ASAP. any takers this week?
By Kyle Queener
From: Monterey, California
5 days ago

You can watch the old Masters of Stone video that shows Chris doing the FA. You can see a couple holds that have changed since then.

And just one added not to everyone - leaving fixed draws up at Pinnacles is not okay, so please clean you're routes at the end of the day and keep preserving the good relationship between climbers, general park visitors and park staff. Also, it's a great idea to pick up some trash while you're out there and if you source a stick from the bushes to use as a stick clip be sure to put it back and take the tape with you. I've been cleaning up a lot of this type of trash in the past few years and its been disconcerting to see the strongest climbers at Pinnacles not doing they're part to keep the park clean.
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