Excellent, moderate alpine climbing with easy access -- so come on a weekday or not in the high season!
Classic routes up the south ridge, with harder additions on the west face.
A "mountaineers route" follows blue and white blazes from the Bergsee hut up the east ridge, with via ferrata cables on the steeper sections. This is also the easiest descent.
The Bergsee hut has excellent accommodations in the 'winterraum' in the off season, with heat/electricity/toilets/firewood and stove/blankets. In season it appears to be very popular; book ahead if you plan on staying there. Camping is not allowed officially.
Multipitch 'klettergarten' below the hut, as well as very easy single pitch climbs. Access to Bergseeschijen climbs within 25 min - 1hr, depending on the routes.
Get to the parking at the Hotel Berggasthaus Dammagletscher, by car or bus (or long walk from Göschenen).
Signs to Bergseehütte, says 1 hr 50 but usually faster. Stay on the trail. You will see the hut well before you get there.
Moderate slab + ridge climbing up the south ridge of Bergseeschijen. First 3 pitches 5c - 5c+ hold all the difficulties, with fairly consistent crimping and slab climbing to good belay stances. All very well bolted.Next two pitches 4c - 5b also well-bolted, quite straightforward.Joins the normal route for the last 4 -5 pitches up to the summit, bolted belays and a very few bolts on the ridge.Descent by following the blue-white trail down to the east ridge, abseil off 3x 25 m or walk down....[more]Browse More Classics in International