Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Gyms - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
 ADVANCED
Bent gate biner on bolt end draws



View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums


Page 1 of 1.  
 
By redlude97
Nov 27, 2012

So I was sorting gear this weekend and replacing some dogbones with the petzls that REI had on sale, and between random purchases including a few hoodwires I ended up with an extra 3-4 bent gate BD positrons and a wiregate or two along with a few dogbones I decided to make a few extra draws with a bent gate on the bolt end. I know the additional risk of the biner unclipping due to rotation, but this isn't really quantifiable. The BD bent gates also aren't as curved as some other bent gates.
Am I going to die? Or am I going to DIE?

FLAG
By kennoyce
From Clearfield, UT
Nov 27, 2012
Climbing at the Gallery in Red Rocks

redlude97 wrote:
So I was sorting gear this weekend and replacing some dogbones with the petzls that REI had on sale, and between random purchases including a few hoodwires I ended up with an extra 3-4 bent gate BD positrons and a wiregate or two along with a few dogbones I decided to make a few extra draws with a bent gate on the bolt end. I know the additional risk of the biner unclipping due to rotation, but this isn't really quantifiable. The BD bent gates also aren't as curved as some other bent gates. Am I going to die? Or am I going to DIE?


I think you already know the answer to your question, but just to make sure, yes, you're going to die.

FLAG
By redlude97
Nov 27, 2012

Crossing wrote:
The Petzl 2010 Catalog cautions against using bent gate biner as the bolt end:

They are warning against using a petzl string to lock the bolt end biner, which I only have the rope end. The bolt end biner is still free to move within the dogbone.

FLAG
By John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Nov 27, 2012
Hiking some 5.fun in Squish.

dont think you'll die, but i also would try to not use them on bolts that will keep you from decking- the first three bolts, critical clips, etc, etc.

FLAG
By redlude97
Nov 27, 2012

John Wilder wrote:
dont think you'll die, but i also would try to not use them on bolts that will keep you from decking- the first three bolts, critical clips, etc, etc.

Yea was thinking of just saving them for the anchors when I setup a toprope since usually I wouldn't need to climb above them

FLAG

Page 1 of 1.