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Bent gate biner on bolt end draws
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By redlude97
Nov 27, 2012

So I was sorting gear this weekend and replacing some dogbones with the petzls that REI had on sale, and between random purchases including a few hoodwires I ended up with an extra 3-4 bent gate BD positrons and a wiregate or two along with a few dogbones I decided to make a few extra draws with a bent gate on the bolt end. I know the additional risk of the biner unclipping due to rotation, but this isn't really quantifiable. The BD bent gates also aren't as curved as some other bent gates.
Am I going to die? Or am I going to DIE?


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By kennoyce
From Layton, UT
Nov 27, 2012
Climbing at the Gallery in Red Rocks

redlude97 wrote:
So I was sorting gear this weekend and replacing some dogbones with the petzls that REI had on sale, and between random purchases including a few hoodwires I ended up with an extra 3-4 bent gate BD positrons and a wiregate or two along with a few dogbones I decided to make a few extra draws with a bent gate on the bolt end. I know the additional risk of the biner unclipping due to rotation, but this isn't really quantifiable. The BD bent gates also aren't as curved as some other bent gates. Am I going to die? Or am I going to DIE?


I think you already know the answer to your question, but just to make sure, yes, you're going to die.


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By redlude97
Nov 27, 2012

Crossing wrote:
The Petzl 2010 Catalog cautions against using bent gate biner as the bolt end:

They are warning against using a petzl string to lock the bolt end biner, which I only have the rope end. The bolt end biner is still free to move within the dogbone.


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By John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Nov 27, 2012

dont think you'll die, but i also would try to not use them on bolts that will keep you from decking- the first three bolts, critical clips, etc, etc.


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By redlude97
Nov 27, 2012

John Wilder wrote:
dont think you'll die, but i also would try to not use them on bolts that will keep you from decking- the first three bolts, critical clips, etc, etc.

Yea was thinking of just saving them for the anchors when I setup a toprope since usually I wouldn't need to climb above them


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