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bent BD Camalot X4
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By Ray Pinpillage
From West Egg
Aug 20, 2014
Middle
You're trying too hard. Slow down, take a few more days, then try a less projecting comeback. Humor would probably help too. I have faith in you and know you're more capable than what you're displaying in this thread.

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By rogerbenton
Aug 20, 2014
Whoever this guy is, he's just plain irresponsible.
holy cow.

this thread (site) is in a tailspin.

people are getting offended and pooping in mouths on the first goddam page.

disgraceful.

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By JonP756
From Mahwah, NJ
Aug 21, 2014
About to get in the crux on Ant's Line
All of my X4s look like that.. You're good dude!

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By OAW
Aug 21, 2014
Stop asking the community who didn't engineer and test the piece. Just send it to Black Diamond. It's not worth yours or someone else's life. If you question it then send it in. Lets show some common sense people, not anecdotal opinions.

Matt

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By rocknice2
From Montreal, Quebec
Aug 21, 2014
BD ice tool fusion2
slim;
That first link you posted shows that its not a kink we are discussing but a flat spot. page_9, fig_6c.
The kink they show fig_6b would make me shit my pants.

I've straighten many of my cams and nuts out and continue to climb on them with confidence.
Inspect the area after and if there are no broken wires and the weave is still tight and uniform, you're good to go.

If in doubt throw it out!

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By O.L.D.S.A.G.
Aug 21, 2014
bearbreeder posted some information about WC Friends' heads breaking after repeated bending and straightening.

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By Bill Kirby
From Baltimore Maryland
Aug 21, 2014
Me eating a cliff bar walking back from Frankenstein Amphitheater
O.L.D.S.A.G. wrote:
bearbreeder posted some information about WC Friends' heads breaking after repeated bending and straightening.


That's what I said! Nobody listens to the fat kid..

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By O.L.D.S.A.G.
Aug 21, 2014
Bill Kirby wrote:
That's what I said! Nobody listens to the fat kid..

You said something?

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By Bill Kirby
From Baltimore Maryland
Aug 21, 2014
Me eating a cliff bar walking back from Frankenstein Amphitheater
O.L.D.S.A.G. wrote:
You said something?


Haha,exactly!

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By MorganH
Aug 21, 2014
O.L.D.S.A.G. wrote:
bearbreeder posted some information about WC Friends' heads breaking after repeated bending and straightening.


They were 20 years old, i'm guessing that they'd been bent more than once, and that some of the individual wires had broken before the whole cable failed.

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By Bill Kirby
From Baltimore Maryland
Aug 21, 2014
Me eating a cliff bar walking back from Frankenstein Amphitheater
MorganH wrote:
They were 20 years old, i'm guessing that they'd been bent more than once, and that some of the individual wires had broken before the whole cable failed.


^^^^^^this made me go back and get my shit together ^^^^^^

Bearbreeder and others were explaining that small cam placements are marginal at best a couple months ago. It wasnt that cams were breaking. Does this matter when bending cables back? Shouldn't small cams be in perfect condition? I'm asking..

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By rocknice2
From Montreal, Quebec
Aug 21, 2014
BD ice tool fusion2
Slim you're failing to consider at what cyclic rate the wire manufactures call serious fatigue. A couple of bends back and forth really. Even 20-30.
It really does depend on the severity of the bending but if you can straighten the cable out and not able to distinguish it from new then I don't see a problem.

You're absolutely correct that repeated bending will eventually lead to failure of the cable. Is it 1-2, 10-15 or 10000-12000.

Again if there is no visible damage it good to go.
Just to clarify a bit, if you can straighten it out by hand and not with a vice and hammer.

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By slim
Administrator
Aug 21, 2014
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.
i don't see how you are saying there is no visible damage. it is already completely apparent that the cable has a fair amount of plastic deformation, so right off the bat you aren't in a high cycle fatigue situation, you are in a low cycle fatigue situation. you won't be able to bend it back to normal without incurring more damage (much less somehow returning it to full strength).

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By Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Aug 21, 2014
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after a day of cragging.
PM.

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By Mtn. Dumass
Aug 21, 2014
Should I buy the link cams made by Omega?

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By Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Aug 21, 2014
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after a day of cragging.
weak ass, no gear placing n00b
weak ass, no gear placing n00b

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By slim
Administrator
Aug 21, 2014
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.
that's cheating - makes it easier to fish into weird pods :) every once in a while you get one like that. i don't really like them like that, seems like it is always bent in the opposite direction of how i would like that. i usually just fish a different one out of the tupperware. just don't bend it back...

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By Chance Philippi
Aug 21, 2014
Not that anyone is still reading the post but Climb on! unless you're really pushing your limits you should be able to climb with any gear. Don't fall.. Climb like your rope is manilla and you just placed a looped piece of rope in an aid seam. This coming from a guy that bought all his gear from ebay and tought himself to trad climb

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By J. Serpico
From Saratoga County, NY
Aug 21, 2014
mattm wrote:
Frankly, looking at the kink point it seems pretty obvious the placement was fairly shallow allowing the cable to kink in that spot. Loading the cable further back should not result in that kink Unless placed more deeply than it appears I'd say what you see is 100% to be expected. Any cam will do something like this to vary degrees (cable flexibility being a major determining factor). Metolius cams would be likely to kink more than say Aliens/basics Broadly speaking, it's a bit disconcerting how many posts i see questioning if "X" damage is normal quickly followed by the "send it back for testing". Many people seem to a) not get the forces at play in trad falls on gear b) grossly over estimate the stoutness of said gear and c) at the slightest sign of wear immediately abandon all common sense and independent thought and call for manufacturer Testing. If DMM or BD pay for the shipping and testing of every kinked cable they'd go broke. Climbers need to engage their brains and self reliance a bit more and make measured And well reasoned choices as to when and why to pull the proverbial emergency brake on "suspect gear". The above looks like classic damaged while in use, did what it was intended to do, time to buy a new one territory Stuff breaks from normal use more often than faulty gear. Learning to identify one from the other should be a requisite trad climbing skill. There are far more complicated things in this game to be sure



What ^^ said. Gear isn't meant to be indestructible or last forever. It did it's job, decide if it looks ok to continue using, or spend $60 and replace it.

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By Bill Kirby
From Baltimore Maryland
Aug 21, 2014
Me eating a cliff bar walking back from Frankenstein Amphitheater
Chance Philippi wrote:
Not that anyone is still reading the post but Climb on! unless you're really pushing your limits you should be able to climb with any gear. Don't fall.. Climb like your rope is manilla and you just placed a looped piece of rope in an aid seam. This coming from a guy that bought all his gear from ebay and tought himself to trad climb


I could see that working out.. Hell, I taught myself how to beat off so trad climbing can't be that much more to figure out.

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By Benjamin Chapman
From Small Town, USA
Aug 21, 2014
old 1/4" bolt.
Maurice.....we'd like to see that.

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By Darren Mabe
From Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 23, 2014
wham bam hand jam. Wrapping up the final moves of Twist of Fate, Oak Creek Canyon. <br /> <br />photo: Blake McCord
I say test the unit yourself. Take a 20 ft fall minimum on it. Are you willing to try that?

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By cPay
Aug 27, 2014
me on Great White 5.13a in Rumney, NH
I bought these x4s, fallen numerous times on most of them. They do tend to stay bent, however none of mine to that extreme, maybe the placement could have been reconsidered to account for this. I just leave them bent, and am conscious of placing them in a similar direction of the existing bend. I too believe straightening then possibly bending in opposite direction will rapidly decrease the life span. Straighten yours a bit, and keep using it, you'll be fine.
I should mention, this is the main issue i have with these cams, never experienced this with BD C3/C4s...

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By Extrablue
From Bronxville, NY
Aug 30, 2014
Same thing happened to me a year ago, I got scared then realized you can bend em with your hands. bent it back, still trust it.

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