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Bensass 
Formation: Castle Ardbeg. Route: The Whiskey Tour 
Johnny Hanksville of Mars 
Meat Log 
Planet X, via the route Problicom Motion 
Princess Bong 
Strummer 

Bensass 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Ben Folsom & Kathleen Stone
Season: Not summer
Page Views: 913
Submitted By: Jared Spaulding on Mar 13, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: The route climbs to the notch at the top. The anc...

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Description 

This route climbs a crack system to a chimney then to top on the east face. A thin hands crack leads through some steep soft rock as well as slabby soft rock. Some of it loose, with a large hollow, but attached rock just below chimney. Belay at three bolt anchor in chimney that is not visible from below. From anchor, scramble/fourth class to top, 10’.

Note: There are several other options for reaching the top of this tower on the north side and west side. Also, this route may have gone free, I was alone and scared so I aid soloed.


Location 

This tower is just southwest of Brigham Butte. It is short and squat with a chimney on the upper east face. It doesn’t earn a sighting tube.


Protection 

Nuts, #.5 BD to #4.5 BD with several #3, #2, and #.75. I also used a red tricam.



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By Erik Peet
From: Provo, UT
Dec 5, 2010
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

This route goes free at 5.10. Pretty fun climb.

By Ben Folsom
Dec 6, 2010

I did the FA of this little dumpy tower with Kathleen Stone in either 2000 or 2001. We called the formation "Bensass" and we climbed the East Face which we rated 5.9. I remember drilling that three bolt belay. It was in some pretty soft rock, I guess that's why I put in three.

By Darren Knezek
Dec 6, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

There's no such thing as a dumpy tower, they all kick ass!!
Speaking off ass, does your ass really look like this tower? :)

Plus, I thought that this one was harder than Meat Log.

What other FA's in this area are you holding out on?

If and when this cleans up a little more, it will make a really fun lead for a lot of climbers.

By Ben Folsom
Dec 7, 2010

If only my ass looked so good...
Other than this and Meat Log, I haven't done any other first ascents in the immediate vicinity.

By Jared Spaulding
From: Central WY
Jan 22, 2011

Ben, thanks for the update and first ascent info. I have updated the description.

By Tyson Taylor
May 9, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Did this tower a couple days ago. It went free at 5.10ish with the crux being finding stable feet for the first couple moves. I noticed there's rabbit poo at the top... makes you wonder. It's probably some kind of bird that leaves similar looking droppings though. While belaying on these towers, I feel like one of those early, scrolling graphic, obstacle dodging, car racing games; like on an old Atari.

They should put a viewfinder on top of this tower.(not serious of course) Great views though.