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Mt. Willard
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Across the Universe T 
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Ben Wall 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: cormier/strand/sykes/lortie and others
Page Views: 661
Submitted By: john strand on Jul 12, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Several short steep routes under Willard, almost in the road. Cracks 5.10-5.11 and a 12+ arete(tr) .All route are tr but I guess could be lead (some have).


Just as route 302 begins to go uphill, a water pipe is on the right-tight parking. The crag is across the small stream to the left. Or park about 200 yds. back on the left


Most are TR

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By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Sep 14, 2009

This crag looks great, the overhanging ow in the middle looks badass. Burlap, any info?

By john strand
From: southern colo
Oct 28, 2009

these route are "interesting" they all are harder than they look and steeper. i'll give the ow 10+ how's that? a pretty cool little spot

By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Oct 28, 2009

Nice John, one more to add to the list.

By Bill Keiler
May 28, 2010

TAPE UP for these!!! Very gritty, but very fun (as I remember)

By chinos
Aug 5, 2012

checked this area out this weekend. great little spot with shade and the river.... The climbs are short but great, and very lead worthy!

By patrick donahue
From: Gunnison, Colorado
Jan 22, 2013

hey so i was reading in a forum about off-widths and someone mentioned this area. is it true that there lays an offwidth or two here?

By john strand
From: southern colo
Jan 22, 2013

Aye there be an OW or 2

Good TR area

By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
May 14, 2014

These routes are down by the river down and right of the slabs on Mt. Willard---easy to miss unless the leaves are off the trees. Park where you can, jump the guardrail, and hop the river (easy except in the highest water). These little routes define gnarly---a bit of Vedauwoo dropped into New Hampshire. And yeah, there MAY be an offwidth.

By Read
From: Townsend, MA
May 27, 2014

Cannot believe I've driven by this spot so many times and never noticed it. I'll second the tape comment I'd cover all the skin you can ha ha. Also if you are missing something from your rack and have been here recently hit me up with what it was and I'll get it back to you.