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Bellyful of Moonshine
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.5 from 2
votes
Routes in Sterling Pass
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Bellyful of Moonshine T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Best Laid Plans T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Confederacy of Dunces T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Counterfeit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Der Ficken (aka Jesus on a Rubber Cross) T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Do Wrong Right T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Heart and Soul S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Moonshiner T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Nobodys Dirty Business T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Pocket full of Horses T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Safecracker T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Seeing Stars S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sterling Sliver T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Thats So Funny I Dont Feel Like a Shithead T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 110 ft (33 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Hoffman/Frye |
| Page Views: | 1,527 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Dean Hoffman on Mar 13, 2014 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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The Goods
Right off the trail, obvious beautiful steep hands in a corner! The only thing that would make this better is if it were longer!!! This route likely will be sandy and p1 will feel quite adventurous to all but the most seasoned Sedona climbers.
P1-Wild stemming with protecting in a tips/tight finger crack, place em deep! Crack takes good gear up to a small tree, I believe right above the tree is a good .5 Camalot placement. Figure out how to get out of the stem and into the tight hand/hand crack finally into a good stance. Clip one bolt and climb delicately through a slabby move or two into standard Sedona tiptoeing, move up and through a small roof/cave to the sweet belay ledge. Belay off a #2 Camalot and one bolt. 5.10ish
P2-Namesake pitch from the ledge its pretty damn obvious, hand jam yer face off through 35ft or so of amazingly steep crack, amazing hands in a corner! Pretty sure the rack was 1 or 2#1s, 2#2s (maybe three for the onsight), and 2#3s. Expect an exciting, sandy mantle top-out to a two bolt rap station. Rap with one 70m
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P1-Wild stemming with protecting in a tips/tight finger crack, place em deep! Crack takes good gear up to a small tree, I believe right above the tree is a good .5 Camalot placement. Figure out how to get out of the stem and into the tight hand/hand crack finally into a good stance. Clip one bolt and climb delicately through a slabby move or two into standard Sedona tiptoeing, move up and through a small roof/cave to the sweet belay ledge. Belay off a #2 Camalot and one bolt. 5.10ish
P2-Namesake pitch from the ledge its pretty damn obvious, hand jam yer face off through 35ft or so of amazingly steep crack, amazing hands in a corner! Pretty sure the rack was 1 or 2#1s, 2#2s (maybe three for the onsight), and 2#3s. Expect an exciting, sandy mantle top-out to a two bolt rap station. Rap with one 70m
Location
We are calling the wall above Counterfeit the "Chutes and Ladders Wall" due to all the false starts and dead ends we have encountered. Bellyful is about 2 switch backs up from Counterfeit on the south side of the trail. You should end up about 10 yards above the base of the first pitch, bushwhack down to the nice little perch and blast off! Rap from top of P2 with one 70m rope. May need one rap ring or quick link or leaver biner... (sorry wish I could remember if we left it perfect or not!)
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