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Franklin Gorge
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A Moment of Clarity S 
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Belly of the Whale 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: 
Season: Spring through Fall
Page Views: 1,089
Submitted By: Pete Hickman on Jun 19, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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BETA PHOTO: Upper half of Belly of the Whale

Private Property MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Crux is moving past the second bolt, which is at waist hight during the crux. The rest of the climb is easy. First bolt is pretty high off of the ground. There is much chalk slightly to the left of the line which can be misleading. Climb starts directly below the first bolt.

Location 

Impact zone left, through the tunnel and across the ledge to far side, on right side of alcove.

Protection 

4 bolts to anchors


Photos of Belly of the Whale Slideshow Add Photo
Crux is just reaching the top left of the arete.
BETA PHOTO: Crux is just reaching the top left of the arete.

Comments on Belly of the Whale Add Comment
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By Ronin
From: Smoke Hole Canyon
Dec 2, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Route now has 5 bolts, all new, with a lower first bolt added by FA. PLEASE stop TRing this line through the anchors... carabiners cost one HELL of a lot less than ring anchors.
By Jake Jones
From: Richmond, VA
Apr 15, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The move to gain the ledge on top of the arete is interesting for an .8 The flop onto the ledge breaks up the flow of what would be a decent short route with a distinct crux. Right anchor bolt is a spinner.
By Ronin
From: Smoke Hole Canyon
Sep 12, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Never did the "flop onto the ledge" for the FA; we did a nice rock-on with sidepulls to the right and a few nubbins to a standing stance, right up out of the throat of the dihedral.

Feel free to tighten that spinner... Franklin doesn't have a service department.
By Jake Jones
From: Richmond, VA
Sep 12, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I'll bring a wrench and tighten it the next time I'm there. I think the second one on Sea Monkeys is loose as well. I'm aware that Franklin doesn't have a service department. I just didn't have a wrench when I was there, and thought someone may see the comment and do a good deed if they were in the area. I'll try that beta the next time I'm there.
By Ronin
From: Smoke Hole Canyon
Oct 17, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Sorry, Jake... the smiley didn't translate. Thanks for the upkeep!
By Jake Jones
From: Richmond, VA
Apr 28, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Tightened 2 hangers on Belly and 1 on Sea Monkeys this past Saturday. Happy to do it.