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Bell's Beast Rock Climbing
Routes in Bell's Beast
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Beast T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Beauty T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Belle of the Beast T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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| GPS: |
40.5661, -111.804 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 7,561 total · 49/month |
| Shared By: | James Garrett on Jul 4, 2011 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
Access Issue: Private Property now at the entrance to Bells Canyon.
Details
A well known and marked trailhead has been established starting from Wasatch Blvd. The trail adds some time to the approach, but is fenced off from passing through any private property. Stick to the trail.
Description
Beast has a granite white horned creature feature imbedded into its south facing flanks. This is at least a mile west of West Bell Tower and is the dark and seemingly forbidden rock passed by on the way to the normal gray colored granite rock towers on the better known "Bells Towers".
Though a much shorter and easier approach than the other Bells Towers, this seems more secluded. The buttress, on close examination, is not the choss rubble heap of loose quartzite as it has often been thought to be. Instead, it is a dark colored vertical column like "granite sandwich" sided by quartzite vertical bands. It would be interesting to hear a Geologist's more intelligent explanation for this unique natural creation in our midst. The result, unlike the compact steep smooth slabs on Bell's Towers, is very featured horizontal crack and patina-like climber friendly rock. Surprisingly pleasant rock.
Though a much shorter and easier approach than the other Bells Towers, this seems more secluded. The buttress, on close examination, is not the choss rubble heap of loose quartzite as it has often been thought to be. Instead, it is a dark colored vertical column like "granite sandwich" sided by quartzite vertical bands. It would be interesting to hear a Geologist's more intelligent explanation for this unique natural creation in our midst. The result, unlike the compact steep smooth slabs on Bell's Towers, is very featured horizontal crack and patina-like climber friendly rock. Surprisingly pleasant rock.
Getting There
Pick your Bell's Canyon preferred trailhead. Keep your eyes peeled to the "quartzite" on your left when hiking up canyon. About a mile after the bridge crossing, a huge rotten tree had fallen over the trail on this now very flat section of the trail. The rotten log has been cleaned away, but remnants may remain....the faint trail to Beast may be marked with some old slings on a tree off to the left (North) off the main trail about at the end of this short flat section.
Two things to help aim you to the path that will soon turn to the left (north) towards the creek and the Beast:
The old rotten log remnants near the path and a leveling of the path, with a marked trail cutting off to the left shortly after this point. This new "trail" is quite evenly aligned with the west scree gully descent path.
Important: If you can clearly see the white horned creature face feature on the rock looking straight across at it, you have probably already walked too far passing the approach and creek crossing trail.
About 20m up trail from the log remnant on the path just past a flattish small boulder on the main trail, veer left (north) and down and across to the creek crossing. This "trail" has a tendency to overgrow quickly due to its "boggy" nature.
Good idea to have a pair of water shoes or sandals to change into, seemingly no matter what month of the year you are doing the approach! Something more sturdy than flip-flops for the bog will save your regular shoes from the muck.
Some white climbers tape on a tree (also temporary) also points the way to the trail. Brown colored rigging cord also marks part of the way to get you started. Once on the trail, it should be fairly easy to follow the short way to the creek crossing. Here, a fixed line and makeshift log "bridge" (courtesy of Swiss Domi Hari and Bruno Matti from the Bernese Oberland!) allow an easy crossing. Continue on the path to a short scree/boulder field which ascends the left side of the formation. After 25m, skirt along the base of the lower wall. Pass huge overhanging quartzite rock and an old bivy platform (?) and after meeting the dark colored granite, continue until the very lowest toe of the Beast. Cairns may be of further assistance.
Other approaches are also possible but they will invariably involve heinous bushwhacking. The above listed option is quite painless, compared to other Bell's approaches.
Two things to help aim you to the path that will soon turn to the left (north) towards the creek and the Beast:
The old rotten log remnants near the path and a leveling of the path, with a marked trail cutting off to the left shortly after this point. This new "trail" is quite evenly aligned with the west scree gully descent path.
Important: If you can clearly see the white horned creature face feature on the rock looking straight across at it, you have probably already walked too far passing the approach and creek crossing trail.
About 20m up trail from the log remnant on the path just past a flattish small boulder on the main trail, veer left (north) and down and across to the creek crossing. This "trail" has a tendency to overgrow quickly due to its "boggy" nature.
Good idea to have a pair of water shoes or sandals to change into, seemingly no matter what month of the year you are doing the approach! Something more sturdy than flip-flops for the bog will save your regular shoes from the muck.
Some white climbers tape on a tree (also temporary) also points the way to the trail. Brown colored rigging cord also marks part of the way to get you started. Once on the trail, it should be fairly easy to follow the short way to the creek crossing. Here, a fixed line and makeshift log "bridge" (courtesy of Swiss Domi Hari and Bruno Matti from the Bernese Oberland!) allow an easy crossing. Continue on the path to a short scree/boulder field which ascends the left side of the formation. After 25m, skirt along the base of the lower wall. Pass huge overhanging quartzite rock and an old bivy platform (?) and after meeting the dark colored granite, continue until the very lowest toe of the Beast. Cairns may be of further assistance.
Other approaches are also possible but they will invariably involve heinous bushwhacking. The above listed option is quite painless, compared to other Bell's approaches.
Classic Climbing Routes at Bell's Beast
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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