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Bellefonte Quarry, Central Pennsylvania
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By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Dec 31, 2012
Day Lily.
Does anyone have the lastest news regarding access (can I climb there?) to this place? Have people been climbing?

Just curious: have you climbed there? If so any of the fine looking crack(s)?

I've seen photos of some sexy splitters that I'd like to experience. Thank you all for your time.
- Kyle

FLAG
By Rick Mix
From Nederland, Colorado
Dec 31, 2012
Fine looking cracks? Sexy splitters? Man you are a STONED master!
But seriously, there's only a couple crack lines in the Quarry. And they're good. But by and large you'll be sport climbing on face routes.

Pretty sure it's still trespassing to climb there.

FLAG
By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Dec 31, 2012
Day Lily.
I appreciate the speedy reply. I think (really unsure) I'm not far (1hr or so) from the quarry and feel it would be worth it for just a few BEAUTIFUL cracks! However if it is officially closed (and not locals wanting it for their own as has happened in PA at least) then I will not take that adventure. Thank you!

FLAG
By Rick Mix
From Nederland, Colorado
Dec 31, 2012
You're a little further than an hour. "El Crackitan" is probably the best crack climb in the state.

Regarding access, some folks are climbing there. Some other folks are trying to negotiate with the mining company. Naturally, the feeling is that by trespassing we are making a bad name for ourselves and lessening the chance of legal access. Makes sense, but the reality is that the mining co is never going to open the Quarry to climbing. So the choices are trespass or leave it alone. I'd risk it.

FLAG
By Jim Bowers
Dec 31, 2012
well there is currently zero chance of being kicked out for climbing there - this time of the year though the quarry walls see no sunlight and it will be cold as anything. And big piles of snow at the base.

FLAG
By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Dec 31, 2012
Day Lily.
Good stuff. Well 'el crackitan' will have me on it soon enough, apparently spring at the soonest. Id really prefer not to enter a closed area but if the attitude is light (no major problemls I guess) then Ill consider it...

Anyone know of the people 'fighting' for access? If I can help I will because somle of those cracks look amazing! Thanks all and happy new year!

FLAG
By Rick Mix
From Nederland, Colorado
Dec 31, 2012
Jim Bowers wrote:
well there is currently zero chance of being kicked out for climbing there - this time of the year though the quarry walls see no sunlight and it will be cold as anything. And big piles of snow at the base.



Oh yeah, forgot those walls are north-east facing. BRRR!

FLAG
By robrobrobrob
Dec 31, 2012
c3pa.org/bellefonte_quarry

You can read about the "fight" there. For what it's worth... the cavers in the area have been discussing access for decades and not gotten anywhere.

Parking can be tricky, but you can figure it out if you drive around long enough. El Crack, White Line, Coleman (Did they really call it Coleman's Crack? I don't think so), Baby Crack. I wonder what PEP goes at now.. it was polished in the 90's.

have fun.. what happens in the quarry stays in the quarry.

FLAG
 
By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Dec 31, 2012
Day Lily.
Thanks Rob! Rob do you live in PA or did you? Were/are you friends with Eric Beyeler? Odd to throw out there but I've experienced 'a small world' more then once. Thank you!

FLAG
By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Feb 21, 2013
Day Lily.
Would you pay for an annual membership (30, 40, $50, etc) to be able to access/climb 7 days a week at Bellefonte? Think govenor stables or gunks as far as paying to climb as examples)

I've never been but have heard stories, seen pictures and read enough to assume/think/know that Bellefonte could be PAs premier rock climbing destination. Hearing how the developers/frequent climbers speak of the rock, the routes and the place as a whole (cliff jumping and lots of water making it an awesome place for hot days which is when most would be there; the traditional warm climbing season) this place is special for PA for sure. If Eric Horst could spend as much time as he did there then I'm sure its quality enough for most or all. I think Bellefonte has balance: amazing cracks (trad), amazing sport routes (bolted/sport climbing), traditionally protected lines, bouldery (limited holds forcing only so many options to ascend, crimpy, smallholds, needing to work out the moves, etc), long traverses (lots of training options), top rope accessible (for a lot at least to run laps, etc), multipitch (maybe not much but hey its there) AND a history to the place! Not a long approach either.

Think within Penns Woods borders this site, if rebolted and cleaned (trails, designated parking, etc), could reign supreme.

Regardless what you think, I want to be able to climb there and am putting effort into doing it legally (no negativity needs to surround this place reagrding access again, that's my goal).

Let me know what you think. Enjoy!

FLAG
By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Feb 21, 2013
Day Lily.
Something I just thought of was that our kids ( people today period.) And their generation are going to/are climbing much harder routes more often/sooner in life than 10, 20, 30 years ago (when major development came to bellefonte). Bellefonte has (compared to other PA crags) a high concentration of 5.11s-5.13s. The abundance of 11s, 12s and 13s (remeber we`re in PA not out west) is awesome!

I'm not at the 12 or 13 difficulty yet but will be that much more motivated to get there if I had a local (for me, I live 45min south of beelefonte) crag that had such difficult routes, more options, bettering my chance of success (whatever that means for/to me).

250ft boulder traverses = awesome training. Running laps on premier cracks = awesome experience/euphoria/awesome training.

Having all this in one spot = priceless

See my first post for the day if interested. Would you pay?

FLAG
By Patrick Mulligan
Feb 22, 2013
The top of the tufa on Magma
When did climbing get so PC as to stop calling Coleman is a Faggot Colman's crack?

FLAG
By Kirby
From DC
Feb 24, 2014
I'd pay. $50/ yr, $10 bucks a visit even.

FLAG
By Michael C
From New Jersey
Feb 25, 2014
Mt Minsi, PA
Also known as the Cliffs of Insandity, right?

I've seen pics and this place would definitely be worth the trip if it were possible to climb there. Keep me posted! Spring will be here soon. My ice tools and crampons are nearly bashed to soft round points and I'm looking forward to not climbing in sub-freezing temps again.

FLAG
By Thomas Carson
From Frederick, MD
Feb 27, 2014
on the Grand, 2012
Hey SM, have you ever listened to the American Alpine Journal's interview with Kelly Cordes? He talks about the Quarry. You'd probably get a kick out of it. And overall, it's one of the best interviews. I've probably listened to it 4 or 5 times.

feed://www.americanalpineclub.org/podcasts/oralhistories/podcast.xml

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By Doug S
Feb 27, 2014
Edge of Time <br />
Michael C wrote:
Also known as the Cliffs of Insandity, right?


Cliffs of Insandity is a different place, east of Huntingdon. There's some long slabs of quarried sandstone. Bolts are old. Use caution if you go.

FLAG
 


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