|East and Northeast Buttress Approach
|Voluntary Closure Every June and Seasonal Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>|
This route takes on the right side of the obvious yellow columns known collectively as the Belle Fourche Buttress. The first pitch is short and goes up the left side of a small block to a nice ledge with bolted anchors. Pitch 2 is around the corner off the right side of the ledge, and it is Spectacular! Down climb a few feet off the ledge and traverse right a foot or two until you are staring up the beautiful finger crack splitting the wall. The next 20 feet is the business! Crank the perfect finger locks until you can get a thin hand jam as the crack widens. The upper part of the pitch is steep hands at an easier grade -ENJOY. The climb ends on a nice ledge. Go to the far side of the ledge to find a bolted anchor atop "Burning Daylight".
Yellow and Orange TCUs at the crux. #.5 Camalot up to #2 Camalot for upper part of route (doubles would be plenty).
Jan 25, 2006
If you're headed to the Tower, put this one on your list of "must do" routes! So beautiful to look at on the walk up to the base, you just can't believe it's .10b!
May 14, 2008
nolte took the words out of my mouth. I remember my friend telling me we were going to do a classic 5.10. While we were walking I looked up and saw this crack and just about shit. WHAT'S THAT?? Is it 5.11? 5.12?
I couldn't believe t when he said no that's the 5.10 we're after. It is an awesome route.
|By Andy Laakmann|
From: Bend, OR
Sep 16, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
So good! So good! So good! From the belay this climb is super intimidating, but as soon as you commit to the crack it unfolds perfectly - a bomber jam, jug, or foot right where you need it. My favorite on the tower so far. Seemed fair for the grade, and anyone comfortable on 10b crack won't have a problem.
Nuts, set of TCUs, double set of cams from #0.5 camalot to #3 camalot. Maybe triples of #1-#3 camalot if you want to sew it up. Midway up the pitch I got a bomber green alien in a small crack to the left and was able to save a #1 for later.
|By S. Stember|
From: St. Paul, MN
Apr 5, 2009
What kind of sun exposure does this route get? Morning? Afternoon?
|By Michael Schneiter|
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Apr 6, 2009
Re: sun exposure.
Morning, if I recall correctly.
This is a great little climb.
|By Peter L Scott|
Sep 23, 2011
This is a fantastic climb! I've done it several times. But if I only had a couple days at the tower I'd skip it. It's a classic Yosemite crack (crack splitting a face). I'd want to climb classic Tower cracks (crack in a dihedral).
|By Sean Nelb|
From: Grand Junction, CO
Sep 3, 2012
A direct 5.9 start is possible by starting at the base of the crack, before the approach slab. Although this lets you do the route in one long pitch, it featured poor rock and large, hollow flakes and is best avoided.