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Bell Buttress - Main Crag
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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arms Bazaar 
Beethoven's Fifth 
Bell Air 
Bell Buster 
Cosmosis 
Daedulus Direct 
Double Jeopardy 
Epiphany 
Epiphany Direct 
Freak on a Leash 
Gates of Eden 
Grand Inquisitor 
Hound Dog 
Joe Pontiac 
Little Man in the Boat 
North Face 
Pitts, The 
Purpose, The 
Route That Dan Missed, The 
Saved by the Bell 
Spoils, The 
Three Minute Hero 
Tiempos de Ceguera (Times of Blindness) 
Unknown 
Verve 
West Crack 
West Face 
Wrinkles 

Bell Buttress - Main Crag 


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Lat, Long: 40.0011, -105.413 Map
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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Ben Mottinger on Jan 1, 2001

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What's New
  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event 

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Tom beginning Cosmosis.

Description 

BB is a towering mostly N-facing wall opposite of Practice Rock. Many old and classic routes can be found here but not too many easy routes. The famous route Cosmosis should not be missed, and if you're a trad hardman (or woman), there are some testpieces on this wall, some with a great deal of controversy surrounding them...

With its north-facing exposure, the wall stays in the shade until early afternoon so summer outings are cool, but on winter days you're probably better off with another wall.

A. Bell Air, 11, 2p, 190', bolts & gear.
B. The Pitts, 11, 2p, 220', bolts & gear.
B1. Unknown, 10-, 1p, 60', gear.
B2. North Face, 10-, 1p, 80', gear.
C. The Bypass 8 A4, 1p.
D. Freak on a Leash, 12+, 1p, bolts.
E. Hound Dog, 11-, 1p, 90', bolts & gear.
F. Grand Inquisitor, 12 R, 1p?, gear & bolts.
G. The Purpose, 12, 1p, 75', bolts & gear.
H. Gates of Eden, 10-, 2-3p, gear.
I. Double Jeopardy, 9, 2-3p, gear.
J. Bell Buster, 11-, 1p, bolts.
K. The Spoils, 12, 1p, 70', gear.
L. Verve, 13, 1p, bolts.
M. Swerve 12, R/X, 1p, gear & bolt.
M1. Cosmosis, 9+, 3p, gear.
M2? The Route That Dan Missed, 10 R/X, 1p, gear.
N. Beethoven's Fifth, 12+ R, 1p, 80', gear.
O. Unfinished Symphony, 11, 1p, gear.
P. West Crack, 9+, 1p, gear.
Q. West Face, 9, 2p, gear.
R. Arete, 12, 1p?, bolts?
S. Little Man And The Boat, 12- R, 1p?, gear?
T. Epiphany Direct, 12, 1p, gear & bolt.
U. Epiphany, 11+ R, 1p, 100', gear & bolt.
U1. Saved by the Bell, 11, 1p, gear.
V. Arms Bazaar, 12-, 1p, gear.
W. Three Minute Hero, 11 R/X, 1p, 66', gear.
X. Joe Pontiac, 7 or 9?, 1-2p, gear.
Y. Malaise, 10, 1p, gear.
Z. Daedalus, 10 R, 1p, gear.
AA. Wrinkles, 9, 3p, gear.
AA1. Christmas In LA, 7, 2nd var 50' R of Z 2nd p, gear.
BB. Wayward Puritan, 6, 2p, gear.
CC. Five-Ten Route, 10-, 1p, gear.
DD. Front Line 11, 1p, gear.
EE. Frontier 11 R, 1p, gear.
FF. Tiers 7, 1p, gear.


Getting There 

Drive West on Canyon from Boulder and set your odometer at the bridge just east of the Dome. Drive 8.1mi up the canyon and a little ways beyond Boulder Falls, look for Practice Rock on the north side of the road with a gravel pullout. Park here then head across the creek on the south side of the road via a tree bridge.

To access the routes, hike downstream to the east end of the wall then scramble up an easy ramp to the base of the routes. Descent from the top is via a gully on the west side of the wall.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Bell Buttress - Main Crag:
West Face   5.9     Trad   
West Crack   5.9+     Trad   
Cosmosis   5.9+     Trad, 2 pitches   
Gates of Eden   5.10a     Trad, 3 pitches   
Unknown   5.10a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Saved by the Bell   5.11a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
Bell Buster   5.11a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
Hound Dog   5.11a     Sport, 1 pitch   
The Pitts   5.11b     Trad, 2 pitches, 220 feet   
Daedulus Direct   5.11c/d PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Epiphany   5.11d R     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
Grand Inquisitor   5.12a R     Trad, 1 pitch   
Arms Bazaar   5.12a R     Trad, 1 pitch   
The Spoils   5.12a/b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
Epiphany Direct   5.12 R     Trad, 1 pitch   
Beethoven's Fifth   5.12d PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Freak on a Leash   5.12d     Sport, 1 pitch   
Tiempos de Ceguera (Times of Blindness)   5.13b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
Verve   5.13c     Sport, Chipped, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Browse More Classics in Bell Buttress - Main Crag

Featured Route For Bell Buttress - Main Crag
Kat TRs through the crux of Beethoven's 5th (12d, R) at Bell Buttress.

Beethoven's Fifth 5.12d PG13  CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Bell Buttress - Main Crag
Climb the obvious thin crack(s) between Cosmosis and West Crack. Start on the right seam for a few moves, then move left up the main seam. Hug the 2 cracks for a few moves where the route steepens before crossing back to the left crack (crux). Some funky moves through the small dihedral roof get you to the chains.The route accepts good modern gear. The safety rating is given for the insecure start (& sparse gear) as well as the difficulty of placement through the crux s...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO