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Bell Buttress - Main Crag

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arms Bazaar 
Beethoven's Fifth 
Bell Air 
Bell Buster 
Daedulus Direct 
Double Jeopardy 
Epiphany Direct 
Freak on a Leash 
Gates of Eden 
Grand Inquisitor 
Hound Dog 
Joe Pontiac 
Little Man in the Boat 
North Face 
Pitts, The 
Purpose, The 
Route That Dan Missed, The 
Saved by the Bell 
Spoils, The 
Three Minute Hero 
Tiempos de Ceguera (Times of Blindness) 
West Crack 
West Face 

Bell Buttress - Main Crag 

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Location: 40.0011, -105.413 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Ben Mottinger on Jan 1, 2001
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BB is a towering mostly N-facing wall opposite of Practice Rock. Many old and classic routes can be found here but not too many easy routes. The famous route Cosmosis should not be missed, and if you're a trad hardman (or woman), there are some testpieces on this wall, some with a great deal of controversy surrounding them...

With its north-facing exposure, the wall stays in the shade until early afternoon so summer outings are cool, but on winter days you're probably better off with another wall.

A. Bell Air, 11, 2p, 190', bolts & gear.
B. The Pitts, 11, 2p, 220', bolts & gear.
B1. Unknown, 10-, 1p, 60', gear.
B2. North Face, 10-, 1p, 80', gear.
C. The Bypass 8 A4, 1p.
D. Freak on a Leash, 12+, 1p, bolts.
E. Hound Dog, 11-, 1p, 90', bolts & gear.
F. Grand Inquisitor, 12 R, 1p?, gear & bolts.
G. The Purpose, 12, 1p, 75', bolts & gear.
H. Gates of Eden, 10-, 2-3p, gear.
I. Double Jeopardy, 9, 2-3p, gear.
J. Bell Buster, 11-, 1p, bolts.
K. The Spoils, 12, 1p, 70', gear.
L. Verve, 13, 1p, bolts.
M. Swerve 12, R/X, 1p, gear & bolt.
M1. Cosmosis, 9+, 3p, gear.
M2? The Route That Dan Missed, 10 R/X, 1p, gear.
N. Beethoven's Fifth, 12+ R, 1p, 80', gear.
O. Unfinished Symphony, 11, 1p, gear.
P. West Crack, 9+, 1p, gear.
Q. West Face, 9, 2p, gear.
R. Arete, 12, 1p?, bolts?
S. Little Man And The Boat, 12- R, 1p?, gear?
T. Epiphany Direct, 12, 1p, gear & bolt.
U. Epiphany, 11+ R, 1p, 100', gear & bolt.
U1. Saved by the Bell, 11, 1p, gear.
V. Arms Bazaar, 12-, 1p, gear.
W. Three Minute Hero, 11 R/X, 1p, 66', gear.
X. Joe Pontiac, 7 or 9?, 1-2p, gear.
Y. Malaise, 10, 1p, gear.
Z. Daedalus, 10 R, 1p, gear.
AA. Wrinkles, 9, 3p, gear.
AA1. Christmas In LA, 7, 2nd var 50' R of Z 2nd p, gear.
BB. Wayward Puritan, 6, 2p, gear.
CC. Five-Ten Route, 10-, 1p, gear.
DD. Front Line 11, 1p, gear.
EE. Frontier 11 R, 1p, gear.
FF. Tiers 7, 1p, gear.

Getting There 

Drive West on Canyon from Boulder and set your odometer at the bridge just east of the Dome. Drive 8.1mi up the canyon and a little ways beyond Boulder Falls, look for Practice Rock on the north side of the road with a gravel pullout. Park here then head across the creek on the south side of the road via a tree bridge.

To access the routes, hike downstream to the east end of the wall then scramble up an easy ramp to the base of the routes. Descent from the top is via a gully on the west side of the wall.

28 Total Routes

['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Bell Buttress - Main Crag:
West Face   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch   
Cosmosis   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches   
West Crack   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Trad   
Gates of Eden   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 3 pitches   
Hound Dog   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   
Saved by the Bell   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Bell Buster   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Epiphany   5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a R     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Grand Inquisitor   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a R     Trad, 1 pitch   
Arms Bazaar   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a R     Trad, 1 pitch   
The Spoils   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Beethoven's Fifth   5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Tiempos de Ceguera (Times of Blindness)   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Verve   5.13c 8a+ 30 X- E7 7a     Sport, Chipped, 1 pitch, 80'   
Browse More Classics in Bell Buttress - Main Crag

Featured Route For Bell Buttress - Main Crag
Me scraping out the onsight on Epiphany. Photo by Forest Woodward.

Epiphany 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Bell Buttress - Main Crag
While Epiphany Direct already describes the original Epiphany a bit, the routes is good enough that it deserves its own description. Start 10 feet downhill and to the left of Arms Bazaar. You will see a bolt about 15 feet off the ground. Don't blow it getting to the bolt. You can place a small cam before the bolt if you wish. Once on the ledge above, clip the anchor with a long sling and set off into the slabby face and cracks above. There is one small nest of gea...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

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