Belaying from the top, why the mess?
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One thing I noticed on my trip to the Gunks was that everyone and their mom had a minimum of one, if not two or three cordelettes wrapped up on their harness for building anchors. |
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Sam Stephens wrote:...on my trip to the Gunks...That's your answer right there. No bigger gumbie fest in the world than the Gunks. They were probably putting their harnesses on in the parking lot, too. |
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camhead wrote: That's your answer right there. No bigger gumbie fest in the world than the Gunks. They were probably putting their harnesses on in the parking lot, too.That may have been the first thing I noticed. Great crowd for being mostly Yankees though. |
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Yeah, its just similar to how life works in NYC in a lot of ways. Very crowded, kind of annoying, lots of idiots just by virtue of the numbers, but the people are friendly one-on-one and really work with the crowds well. And, the great thing is, if you get on something harder than 10a, you will rarely ever wait in line. |
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camhead wrote:They were probably putting their harnesses on in the parking lot, too.Anyone that has done multipitch with a tiny leady pack has done this IMO. I do it at Eldo or anywhere else I'm trying to keep my loads small when walking in. And I'm sure it's overkill, but the last thing I'd criticize a climber about is being too safe. |
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Wasn't trying to criticize safety. I guess it's just different strokes. I don't see one as safer than the other. |
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Scott McMahon wrote: Anyone that has done multipitch with a tiny leady pack has done this IMO. I do it at Eldo or anywhere else I'm trying to keep my loads small when walking in. And I'm sure it's overkill, but the last thing I'd criticize a climber about is being too safe. |
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camhead wrote:I do think that the tendency of Gunkies to flaunt how hard and tradass their area is, is kind of annoying."Tradass"- that's a great one! Funny graphic too. |
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Lots of reasons to carry a cordelette: gear anchors, slinging B.A. trees, setting up a haul for the second who fell off e.g. Modern Times, prusiking back on when the leader falls off, cutting up to back up a manky rap station. |
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Guilty. I have carried three cords in the past...and been mocked for it at the crag. I worked as a guide for a few seasons and three were necessary in my eyes for multi-pitch guiding: |
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i dont worry about how many cord other people carry .... it has utterly no effect on my climbing ;) |
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The thing with three big ass trees, you never know when you need to anchor a battleship. And, if there is anything that is constant, people from New York need to be ready to create and dramatize any disaster, or Los Angeles, or Texas -- well maybe Texas doesn't really give a crap, but anyway. |
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Why does everyone at the Gunks have their ATC on a sling when they rap? |
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If you extend your ATC when you rap it makes it so you can't invert yourself if something stupid happens, also makes it easier to set up your prusik backup. |
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Jonas Salk wrote:Why does everyone at the Gunks have their ATC on a sling when they rap?I do this everywhere. Gives more room for the hands and control on descent, IMO. Those who use rappel backups (I rarely do) have the added advantage of being able to put the autoblock on the belay loop and not get it sucked into the device. |
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Nick Stayner wrote: "Tradass"- that's a great one! Funny graphic too.Truely a great one! I gotta make it my own now... |
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Jonas Salk wrote:Why does everyone at the Gunks have their ATC on a sling when they rap? Buff, is your cat missing? That sucks. I know sometimes peoples cats leave for a while, possibly to save the world, then they come back. I hope your cat comes home safe and sound.It's the Petzl recommended method. Autobloc doesn't interfere with device and works as a tether. petzl.com/files/all/en/acti… |
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Uh... I carry 2 here's why |
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It was my first trip to the Gunks last weekend and about the most complicated thing I saw was a guy that used two separate tree anchors to belay from the top in the Near Trapps. He used the second, further anchor as a redirectional, which was funny since he could have just used that tree as his main and redirectional. Oh, well. |
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Stich wrote:It was my first trip to the Gunks last weekend and about the most complicated thing I saw was a guy that used two separate tree anchors to belay from the top in the Near Trapps. He used the second, further anchor as a redirectional, which was funny since he could have just used that tree as his main and redirectional. Oh, well.People do hilariously anal shit there, don't they. |
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Agree w/ camhead's comments about the Gunks. It's a bit of a shit show. Still a great climbing area though. |