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Belaying from the top, why the mess?
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By Sam Stephens
Sep 21, 2012
Top half of Melifluous

One thing I noticed on my trip to the Gunks was that everyone and their mom had a minimum of one, if not two or three cordelettes wrapped up on their harness for building anchors.

Ok I understand some people like cordelette, but at the top of the cliff, after climbing 5.6, why the need to build a three point anchor off three burly trees? Has KISS been lost as a principle? Why don't more people (when feasible) just un-tie, straight line off a tree and clove the belay device to the rope? Simple, fast, bomber.


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By camhead
From Vandalia, Appalachia
Sep 21, 2012
You stay away from mah pig!

Sam Stephens wrote:
...on my trip to the Gunks...


That's your answer right there. No bigger gumbie fest in the world than the Gunks. They were probably putting their harnesses on in the parking lot, too.


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By Sam Stephens
Sep 21, 2012
Top half of Melifluous

camhead wrote:
That's your answer right there. No bigger gumbie fest in the world than the Gunks. They were probably putting their harnesses on in the parking lot, too.


That may have been the first thing I noticed. Great crowd for being mostly Yankees though.


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By camhead
From Vandalia, Appalachia
Sep 21, 2012
You stay away from mah pig!

Yeah, its just similar to how life works in NYC in a lot of ways. Very crowded, kind of annoying, lots of idiots just by virtue of the numbers, but the people are friendly one-on-one and really work with the crowds well. And, the great thing is, if you get on something harder than 10a, you will rarely ever wait in line.

I do think that the tendency of Gunkies to flaunt how hard and tradass their area is, is kind of annoying.


Gunks
Gunks


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By Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Sep 21, 2012
Bocan

camhead wrote:
They were probably putting their harnesses on in the parking lot, too.


Anyone that has done multipitch with a tiny leady pack has done this IMO. I do it at Eldo or anywhere else I'm trying to keep my loads small when walking in.

And I'm sure it's overkill, but the last thing I'd criticize a climber about is being too safe.


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By Sam Stephens
Sep 21, 2012
Top half of Melifluous

Wasn't trying to criticize safety. I guess it's just different strokes. I don't see one as safer than the other.


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By camhead
From Vandalia, Appalachia
Sep 21, 2012
You stay away from mah pig!

Scott McMahon wrote:
Anyone that has done multipitch with a tiny leady pack has done this IMO. I do it at Eldo or anywhere else I'm trying to keep my loads small when walking in. And I'm sure it's overkill, but the last thing I'd criticize a climber about is being too safe.



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By Nick Stayner
From The Magic City
Sep 21, 2012
Nick Stayner near the crux. Ryan Minton photo.

camhead wrote:
I do think that the tendency of Gunkies to flaunt how hard and tradass their area is, is kind of annoying.


"Tradass"- that's a great one! Funny graphic too.


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By Gunkiemike
Sep 21, 2012

Lots of reasons to carry a cordelette: gear anchors, slinging B.A. trees, setting up a haul for the second who fell off e.g. Modern Times, prusiking back on when the leader falls off, cutting up to back up a manky rap station.

I suspect a lot of folks carry one for one of these reasons, but then they carry a second so they still have all their options open even if their first belay used a cordelette.

But I can't see carrying THREE. Don't think I've ever seen this, to be honest.


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By ROC
From Englewood, CO
Sep 21, 2012

Guilty. I have carried three cords in the past...and been mocked for it at the crag. I worked as a guide for a few seasons and three were necessary in my eyes for multi-pitch guiding:

1. For the bottom anchor your client is tied into
2. For the top anchor you will bring them up on
3. For any type of rescue intereventions that may be necessary; hauling, belay escape, counter-weight rappel, etc... (it's amazing what you can do with a some cord)

For recreational climbing...make your partner carry one.


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By bearbreeder
Sep 21, 2012

i dont worry about how many cord other people carry .... it has utterly no effect on my climbing ;)


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By Buff Johnson
Sep 21, 2012
smiley face

The thing with three big ass trees, you never know when you need to anchor a battleship. And, if there is anything that is constant, people from New York need to be ready to create and dramatize any disaster, or Los Angeles, or Texas -- well maybe Texas doesn't really give a crap, but anyway.

I'm just sayin' when Manhattan floods from the storm and the aliens invade, our navy will need a quick pivot anchor off of the clifftop to fire from and destroy the heathen beasts.


(still no sign of Mr Bigglesworth, btw. Yeah, when it's a dog everyone is stumbling over themselves to spray the web, clamor for endorsements, do the talk show circuit, etc. -- but a cat, you're totally fucked)


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By Jonas Salk
Sep 21, 2012

Why does everyone at the Gunks have their ATC on a sling when they rap?

Buff, is your cat missing? That sucks. I know sometimes peoples cats leave for a while, possibly to save the world, then they come back. I hope your cat comes home safe and sound.


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By Jeremy Riesberg
From Minneapolis, MN
Sep 21, 2012
Palisaid, SD.

If you extend your ATC when you rap it makes it so you can't invert yourself if something stupid happens, also makes it easier to set up your prusik backup.


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By CWood
From SLC, UT
Sep 21, 2012

Jonas Salk wrote:
Why does everyone at the Gunks have their ATC on a sling when they rap?
I do this everywhere. Gives more room for the hands and control on descent, IMO. Those who use rappel backups (I rarely do) have the added advantage of being able to put the autoblock on the belay loop and not get it sucked into the device.


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By Brian in SLC
Sep 21, 2012
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch

Nick Stayner wrote:
"Tradass"- that's a great one! Funny graphic too.


Truely a great one!

I gotta make it my own now...


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By kilonot
Sep 21, 2012

Jonas Salk wrote:
Why does everyone at the Gunks have their ATC on a sling when they rap? Buff, is your cat missing? That sucks. I know sometimes peoples cats leave for a while, possibly to save the world, then they come back. I hope your cat comes home safe and sound.


It's the Petzl recommended method. Autobloc doesn't interfere with device and works as a tether.

www.petzl.com/files/all/en/activities/sport/tech-tips-multi->>>


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By Medic741
From Pittsford, New York
Sep 21, 2012
When I was a bum at Frey

Uh... I carry 2 here's why

1 for anchor (or 1 reall long sling)
2nd for rescue/hauling (5mm). mostly climb w new climbers so like to be able to fix something if my climber needs help


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By Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Sep 21, 2012
Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Peak.

It was my first trip to the Gunks last weekend and about the most complicated thing I saw was a guy that used two separate tree anchors to belay from the top in the Near Trapps. He used the second, further anchor as a redirectional, which was funny since he could have just used that tree as his main and redirectional. Oh, well.


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By CWood
From SLC, UT
Sep 21, 2012

Stich wrote:
It was my first trip to the Gunks last weekend and about the most complicated thing I saw was a guy that used two separate tree anchors to belay from the top in the Near Trapps. He used the second, further anchor as a redirectional, which was funny since he could have just used that tree as his main and redirectional. Oh, well.
People do hilariously anal shit there, don't they.


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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Sep 21, 2012
El Chorro

Agree w/ camhead's comments about the Gunks. It's a bit of a shit show. Still a great climbing area though.

When I rap I clip directly to my belay loop. I often use an autoblock as a backup. Clip it to my leg loop w/ a locker and keep it below the device. It never gets sucked into my ATC.


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By Gunkiemike
Sep 21, 2012

Ryan Williams wrote:
When I rap I clip directly to my belay loop. I often use an autoblock as a backup. Clip it to my leg loop w/ a locker and keep it below the device. It never gets sucked into my ATC.


That works for me to, but some harnesses have loose leg loops and small belay loops that makes this setup a bit risky.


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By John Husky
Sep 21, 2012

Turns out, though I don't climb at the Gunks, I'm gonna go ahead and do shit the way I want to. I have been doing it the same way for some time now, and find it to be just fine for me. You should try doing shit the way you want and not worrying overmuch about the way others do shit.

Being dangerous is one thing, being dorky in your opinion is not.


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By Sam Stephens
Sep 21, 2012
Top half of Melifluous

John Husky wrote:
Turns out, though I don't climb at the Gunks, I'm gonna go ahead and do shit the way I want to. I have been doing it the same way for some time now, and find it to be just fine for me. You should try doing shit the way you want and not worrying overmuch about the way others do shit. Being dangerous is one thing, being dorky in your opinion is not.


A bit touchy are we Mr. Husky.


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By JCM
From Golden, CO
Sep 21, 2012

This thread makes me want to put together a Jeff Foxworthy-style monolouge:

"If you......you might be a gumby."


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By John Husky
Sep 22, 2012

No, I am not very touchy, but weary of the junior high dick measuring, gumby, noob spraying.

If you are really upset with someone elses personal gear, go right up and confront them at the crag. I would enjoy that.


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