Mountain Project: Forum: Belaying a second directly off of anchors, anchor...

By Jake Jones
From The Eastern Flatlands
Jan 17, 2012

Gregger Man wrote:

They never asked. They must have lifted it from here Thanks, I like that photo, too.

Sunzabitches. Stealing a picture like that and not citing the source.

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By Wayne
From Superior, CO
Jan 17, 2012

Gregger Man wrote:

For gear anchors I prefer this now. ...link to equalizing figure 8...

Just curious - how does that behave if a piece blows? I expect it would slip some, but wonder how fast it would extend. I can see the equalization would make the piece pulling less likely, but still curious if you know or tested the behavior.

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By Gregger Man
Jan 17, 2012

Wayne wrote:

It depends on how well you tighten the knot when you set it up initially.
If you wrench it down hard, this setup behaves more statically, like a cordelette. That might cause a piece to fail if the loops were also poorly equalized relative to the direction of the load.
If you leave the knot just 'moderately snug', a gradual load on the anchor tends to make all the loops slide until they share the load equally. There's no guarantee that would work efficiently in something as violent as a factor 2 fall, though.

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By ChooChoo
From Albany, NY
Sep 26, 2012

Billy Young wrote:

Ok so I was practicing anchoring myself with the rope and I must say this is much easier. I wanted to post this pic of my fastest way of doing it to make sure it all looked safe. ... Only thing I can see that might be unsafe would be tri loading the locker on the right. Should I put a separate locker into the bolt to avoid this?

Just wanted to point out that in your picture you have a biner on biner setup where you clip the anchors. You probably wouldn't do this IRL as there's a chance biners can unclip themselves when biner on biner.

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