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Belay removed from Lake Audrain Ice (screws/slings)
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By TonyV
From Cool, CA
Jan 24, 2013

I left two ice screws (black diamond and older Chouinard), sling and biner at the top of Lake Audrain ice, Echo Summit, HWY 50 corridor in early January, 2013. I placed them there due to too much snow at the top of the route to safely get to the bolt belay. I went back to retrieve them January 22 and they were removed.

Please return them to Tony Valdes, 1501 Trading Post Ct., Cool CA 95614. I will pay for shipping. ITS NOT COOL TO TAKE BELAY GEAR ESPECIALLY ON ICE. KARMA WILL PREVAIL. You know who you are.

Thank you.


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By Dylan Weldin
From Austin, Texas
Jan 24, 2013
Summit of my first tower, the Rectory via Fine Jade



^^This^^

Three weeks later you should not expect to come back and retrieve your TR anchor. Sorry duder. (And no, I don't have them)


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By Benjamin Chapman
From Small Town, USA
Jan 24, 2013
old 1/4" bolt.

Tony....really sorry to learn that your ice gear has been bootied. Never cool, but leaving the gear hanging on route for 3 weeks and expecting it to still be there seems like VERY wishful thinking. I would have gone back the next day or so. Too bad, but your expectation just seems unreasonable.


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By Crag Dweller
From New York, NY
Jan 24, 2013
My navigator keeps me from getting lost

TonyV wrote:
...ITS NOT COOL TO TAKE BELAY GEAR ESPECIALLY ON ICE. KARMA WILL PREVAIL...


Sorry your gear was taken and hope you get it back but it's not belay gear. It's bail gear. And, bail gear = bootie...whether it was there for a day or 3 weeks. Sometimes you get it back. Sometimes you don't. You lose some you find some. That's just part of climbing.


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By Maurice Chaunders
Jan 25, 2013
Colombian Crack

Nice posts. I have to agree with OP about Karma. Imagine how much gear was lost to the person before they stumbled upon that tastey bail bootie-I'm sure they were stocked that their fortune had reversed and it was their turn to score what another party had to abandon.

Great video-I can't believe how strong that relatively shallow ice anchor is!


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By bergbryce
From South Lake Tahoe, CA
Jan 25, 2013

Wow, some ice formed there?
Where exactly is it? I've looked for it before but didn't find much.

Sorry about your gear, but this sounds like a pretty clear case of bootie to me.


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By TonyV
From Cool, CA
Jan 27, 2013

Thanks for all the comments. I couldn't get back to retrieve the screws due to a back injury. Booty it was. I've set up v-threads many times. just didn't bring my hook, long enough screws and a piece of webbing. I've rapped off many a v-thread in BC. The ice is just south of the lake proper on a short band of rock. Maybe 45 ft. of ice. Climbed it today, with my daughter (second time on ice). Thin at the bottom and melting out unless we get some cold temps. Saludos to all of you!


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