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A super climb that involves extremely technical climbing, an explosive move up high, and a final exit into the "pod." Why it doesn't see more ascents is baffling, for it is one of the coolest climbs on the Bat Wall. Sadly, it has been the victim of mysterious dirtification.
Jul 3, 2008
I TR'd this and would work on it in the future if the rusted bolts were replaced. The FA doesn't seem interested at this time...
|By Mark Huth|
From: Portland, OR
Jul 5, 2008
rating: 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX E6 6b R
I was on this 7/4 and agree with you, the bolt heads are very rusted and are cause for concern. Might be fine, but then again, one good fall might snap that head right off. Anyone interested in contributing hardware? I can do the work and can put some $ towards hardware if anyone else is interested in contributing also. It's a great route and it would be nice to see more traffic on it.
|By peachy spohn|
Jul 12, 2008
The bolts have all held falls and are as good as the bolts on Bad Omen. If bolts are replaced make sure not to change their current positioning...
Jul 13, 2008
I don't know, peachy... That's kind of a strange comment. Of course they've held falls. This doesn't mean they aren't due to be replaced, which is all anyone has brought up. There is no reason not to have good hardware on these routes. A lot of this stuff is over twenty years old and wasn't very high quality to begin with. It has to happen some time, ya know?!
Jul 15, 2008
If anyone's interested in doing the work, let me know.
The local access fund rep has a bunch of bolts & hangers that were donated by ASCA for use at Broughton.
There are a few other anchors & bolts out there that are also a priority to replace.