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Being a stiffy in a soft world
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By SexPanther aka Kiedis
Jan 4, 2013
Thumbtastic

What's the katana lace like? No one stocks them around here-


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By reboot
From Westminster, CO
Jan 4, 2013

Smarty Ports/Shants wrote:
What's the katana lace like?

Mildly downturned toe (less than the muira lace but feels much more powerful), relatively wide forefoot (but low volume, especially in the toe area, so you can't size them really small for super curled toes) w/ a sock like construction (like the Sportiva solution). The last feels almost as stiff as TC pro out of the box (stiffer than anything else Sportiva makes right now, I think).

I bought it specifically for long, hard routes with a mix of edging & thin crack climbing & sized it so the toes are just flat w/o any weight, but a bit curled standing on the ground (half size to full size larger than if I'd bought it just for hard edging). I didn't get to do the route I'd planned (a buddy of mine overheard my choice & bought the shoes for the route & loved it). It worked well enough for Moonlight (& IC routes like optimator, johnny cat, etc), but the XS Edge rubber just doesn't smear that well on sandstone. However, edging was superb and jamming was way comfy.


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By shotwell
Jan 4, 2013

Smarty Ports/Shants wrote:
What's the katana lace like? No one stocks them around here-


They are fairly stiff at first but quickly break in. They're also still stiff compared to the shoes you're talking about after break in. Pretty sensitive for a stiff shoe as well as having a very slight downturn, really just at the tip of the toe. The heel is kind of deep, but not as bad as the original Katana. They're fairly wide in the forefoot compared to most Sportiva shoes. The most recent iteration give me a toes flat fit at 2 euro sizes down from my street shoe and an edging fit at a half size below that. They don't stretch much at all. I think they're the second best modern stiff shoe behind the Feroce. The Feroce has a shallower heel and a slightly wider forefoot and an identical downturn. It is also much stiffer and just as sensitive.


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By Larry S
Mar 26, 2013
The wife and I road-trippin on the Connie.

Killis, i just noticed these on 5.10's site and remembered reading how you hate the onyxx rubber... they brought back anasazi's w/ C4 - fiveten.com/products/footwear-detail/13828-anasazi-vcs-blue->>>


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By Christian
From Casa do Cacete
Mar 26, 2013

Yep, Onyxx suxx.


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By Alex McIntyre
From Tucson, AZ
Mar 27, 2013

How has the Muira VS not been brought up yet? Hands down, the best technical edging shoe I've ever put on. It's a master of the dime edge.


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