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 ADVANCED
White House Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Behind the Times T 
Chemical Wire T 
Garfield Goes To Washington T 
Garfield's Forgiven Affair T 
Grounds for Divorce T,S 
IHOP T 
Political Affair T 
Political Division T 
Political Prowness T 
Slant Crack T 
Smear Campaign T 
Tap and Die T,TR 
Utter Butter on a Rope T 
Wife Sentence T 
Unsorted Routes:

Behind the Times 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Eric Sutton
Page Views: 713
Submitted By: Eric Sutton on Jul 9, 2002

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Description 

"Behind the Times" is located directly behind "Read My Clips", begining at the top of a glade-like gully. The most obvious feature marking the route's location on the wall is a large slightly detached flake pointing left and about 50 feet up the wall. Its line follows the zigzagging cracks to the flake's left passing bolts at otherwise unprotectable areas,and through the improbable bulge and another bolt, after the crack hooks back right and ends. There are extremely solid anchors on the wall above the bulge and another pitch is intended up the shallow crack system/groove to its right. The climbing is, for the most part,progressively more difficult,technical,strenuous, and balancey. The most serious fall can take place just before reaching the second bolt if good enough gear has not been placed in the barn-door layback section,and has been taken with no injury. The last bolt is high and hard to clip but you wouldn't want it any lower as you reach the anchor. The first and third bolts and anchor were placed on rappel and are the only ones I've placed that way, thus the route name. The route was led from the ground in twelve tries with two top-roped attempts somewhere in the middle of those. I wonder if I'll ever be able to do it again. It will almost definitely scare you but won't hurt you if you don't get over your head on the lead. It can be top-roped by descending to its anchors from part way up "Political Prowess". The line and climbing are both striking.


Protection 

Standard rack of finger to hand size nuts and cams,and three quickdraws for bolts. The protection between the first two bolts is difficult and strenuous to find and place. Do not use the large hanging flake for either climbing or protection. The route avoids it to the left.



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