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The Mission Wall
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Behind The Sun S 
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Billy the Kid S 
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Eye of the Beholder T,S 
Garrett's Revenge S 
Gneiss Roof (AKA: Nice Ride) T,S 
Gneiss Route S 
Ground Control to Gumby One S 
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Unsorted Routes:

Behind The Sun 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Greg Purnell, Richard Wright, 2000
Page Views: 926
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Apr 18, 2001

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Unknown climber on the third pitch.

Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Behind The Sun begins in the furthest right sector of the wall, right of and below the prominent arete that forms the crux of Steve Landin's route "Floorshow".

BTS uses the first one or two pitches of Floorshow to gain the grassy ledge at 140 ft. This sector can be split into two pitches if desired, and both have double bolt anchor systems. At the grassy ledge, the belay anchor and rap station for BTS be found 30 ft to the right of Floorshow. Note carefully: the rap to the ground from the right hand station is a single 140 ft rap. If you cannot make this rap, use the Floorshow station because a second rap station is in place at 70 ft.

The climbing above the ledge on BTS starts by angling right from the belay a short way to surmount a small roof. Technical climbing and some powerful sequences follow in this crux pitch. I found this pitch to be a bit intimidating, being not overly bolted and run out in the 5.12b crux, frankly a bit scary. This third pitch ends at a sloping ledge, 90 ft above. What follows is a moderate, 5.10d/5.11a swim over a short head wall that leads into the dramatic dihedral above. Continue with easy climbing on big holds to the flat-out-airest belay in Clear Creek. A stem at the top of the dihedral clips the anchors with close to 300 ft of air below your butt.

Initially red pointed as separate pitches, the whole route was red pointed first by Greg and Rich Purnell in the Spring of 2000. At least two stars for the climbing, the continuity, the brilliant crux pitch, and the amazing air on the last pitch.

Protection 

QD only. This is a long route by Clear Creek standards. It can be done either as four pitches or as three. In either case, two 60m ropes are the best way to go, although the raps can be broken down into 100 ft sections.


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By Anonymous Coward
Jan 1, 2001

A awesome and great route, loaded with lots of killer moves and LOTS of air time. I give this route ____s.
By Anonymous Coward
Dec 5, 2001

[I don't] think that they redpointed it first. It is probably better then any 12a/b in the canyon. [I don't] think that it is a 12b. Yes the crux is a bit scary, but then again the only thing that you will hit is air. Anyway the crux is on the slab.

There are some other routes on the wall. From left to right: 5.10d 120ft to a 5.12a roof second pitch to a 5.8 slab 5.11c 120ft " same as above" great climbing and views! 5.11b/c 40ft and shitty up the pink quartize dike 5.940ft to the same anchors as the dike
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Dec 5, 2001

I can't be absolutely certain of who strung all three pitches together first. After talking with Greg, it appeared that he and Rich probably did so. Regardless, it is probably insignificant since the whole route came together in separate sections including the first pitch which was done by Steve Landin at least a year earlier. I placed all of the anchors above Steve's pitch and bolted the third pitch dihedral. Greg then got the killer second pitch in. We ran the whole unit at the time, but this kicked up a hang during the red point. Greg's return with Rich got it all done without the hang whether this was the first or second "true FFA".
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 13, 2002

went back there to climb the pitches of this wall andtook the big whip on this route, very commiting but what climbing is all about.have good fun while climbing this fantastic route!

By Anonymous Coward
Dec 30, 2002

Amazing route and definitely worth three stars.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 23, 2004
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

crux pitch is definitely one of the best pitches on Mission Wall!

The fall at the crux is not that big, and very safe. (your feet are only about 3 feet above the bolt when you are clipping the next one, all you hit is air!...) The 2nd pitch of Floorshow leading up to the ledge is still very dirty.

Spectacular position, brilliantly devious crux sequence, and great exposure.