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Vampires S 

Behind The Beige Vinyl Curtain 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Todd Goss, Jerry Howard
Page Views: 1,057
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Feb 17, 2009

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In critical habitat area for the Desert Tortoise


A wonderfully long, exciting line. Travel upwards on the ever-present reddish-brown, sculpted chert features. Occasionally the chert edges get thinner here and there; in the nick of time, a single-finger pocket or two appears.

Approximately three-fourths of the way up a slightly overhanging bulge bars the way. Surmount this using big, rough, irregular knobs and good feet, plus a pocket or two.

Use a 70m rope, a 60m won't be quite long enough to lower all the way.


Right-most of 3 bolted lines which are all located to the left of a rounded, vertical trough with a curving, overhanging feature part way up the trough. There is a light-colored, oblong area about twenty feet up in the middle of the three routes.


14 bolts (the guidebook says 13—it's wrong) and Metolius rap anchors.

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By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Nov 16, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Correct on count 14 bolts plus anchors although you can reach the last bolt from the anchors. Lowering on our 60m made it just barely.

The 10b (Vampires) two to the left and the 10c in between are also great routes. Both full 100 footers and pretty sustained.

The two 3 star 10a's an the far left are not that great - easy climbs with short cruxes.
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