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top ropes on slopey climbs

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By Eric D.
From Oakland, CA
Aug 4, 2008

I encountered a non-textbook situation this weekend and didn't know exactly what to do.

Was trying to toprope an easy climb with a slopey finish but there was no "edge"to let the anchor go over. I could have lengthened the anchor more, but it could have taken quite a bit and there still would have been rope dragging on rock either way..

any ideas/ strategies?
By Shawn Mitchell
From Broomfield
Aug 4, 2008

Sometimes all you can do is pull hard :)
By mike mullendore
From columbia, md
Aug 4, 2008
Whitney from the Alabama Hills

or get a hammer and drill and make an edge, that's what I do.

By Brian in SLC
From Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 4, 2008
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch

Eric D. wrote:
I encountered a non-textbook situation this weekend and didn't know exactly what to do. Was trying to toprope an easy climb with a slopey finish but there was no "edge"to let the anchor go over. I could have lengthened the anchor more, but it could have taken quite a bit and there still would have been rope dragging on rock either way.. any ideas/ strategies?


Maybe dedicate an older rope to TRing and just expect it to get kinda more trashed. Some folks even pick up a fat ol' static for TRing in places where the rope is going to get abraided.

Although, no edge can be nice. Less chance to coreshot your rope I'd think.

Where?

Cheers.
By Shawn Mitchell
From Broomfield
Aug 4, 2008

mike mullendore wrote:
or get a hammer and drill and make an edge, that's what I do.

Aih! Such a malignant attitude makes me allopeciac. If it metastasizes, the prognosis is for stage IV access issues! Where's my antiemetic? ;)
By mike mullendore
From columbia, md
Aug 4, 2008
Whitney from the Alabama Hills

Shawn Mitchell wrote:
Aih! Such a malignant attitude makes me allopeciac. If it metastasizes, the prognosis is for stage IV access issues! Where's my antiemetic? ;)


nice! thanks for remembering!

By Shawn Mitchell
From Broomfield
Aug 4, 2008

mike mullendore wrote:
nice! thanks for remembering!

You think the image of John Goodman in a white lab coat with a big needle and an enema tube is humanly forgettable?
By Not So Famous Old Dude
From Denver, CO
Aug 4, 2008

Brian in SLC wrote:
Maybe dedicate an older rope to TRing and just expect it to get kinda more trashed. Some folks even pick up a fat ol' static for TRing in places where the rope is going to get abraided. Although, no edge can be nice. Less chance to coreshot your rope I'd think. Where? Cheers.


I have a piece of Blue Water II Plus static I used to use for TRing (just don't TR much any more), and it was perfect for these kinds of applications. There is no need to double it up and all that - just a single strand tied off with figure 8s or your secure knot of choice is all you need, so a 20-25 foot piece goes a heck of a long way.
By James Beissel
From Boulder, CO
Aug 4, 2008
Ghostride da whip!

Belay from the top of the cliff and you won't be working against nearly as much friction.

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