By Rick Witting Aug 12, 2008
| Shawn Mitchell wrote: 1977. The Trough, a bolted 5.5. face climb at Big Rock, Lake Perris, near Riverside, California. I climbed there in 1991. My first experience with slab. We were on our way back from Tahquitz where we got in over our head and started rapping the route. 3 old guys gave us some better descent directions. I wouldn't have known at the time, but I'll bet it was Robbins and Chounard. |  |
By Shawn Mitchell From Broomfield Aug 12, 2008
| Rick Witting wrote: I climbed there in 1991. My first experience with slab. We were on our way back from Tahquitz where we got in over our head and started rapping the route. 3 old guys gave us some better descent directions. I wouldn't have known at the time, but I'll bet it was Robbins and Chounard. Brushes with the immortals...one of the really great things about climbing. Most climbers with a few seasons under their belts have tales of shared belays, trails, camps, etc. |  |
By Rick Witting Aug 12, 2008
| Shawn Mitchell wrote: Brushes with the immortals...one of the really great things about climbing. Most climbers with a few seasons under their belts have tales of shared belays, trails, camps, etc. Well stated. Much more interesting meeting the "immortals" in the field than at book signings. |  |
By Not So Famous Old Dude From Denver, CO Aug 12, 2008
| Shawn Mitchell wrote: Brushes with the immortals...one of the really great things about climbing. Most climbers with a few seasons under their belts have tales of shared belays, trails, camps, etc.
Yes! I've always felt this is one of the most intriguing aspects of our sport. You can actually meet legends of the sport climbing the same climb you are on, or at the base, and just have casual conversation. No posse, no flashing cameras, no backstage passes, - just you talking to someone who shaped the history of the sport. And, maybe with the exception of some of today's elite sport climbers, you can actually relate to each other's experiences. That's never going to happen to a typical team sports player where the legends morph into global celebrities. |  |
By Tradster Aug 12, 2008
| Not So Famous Old Dude wrote: Yes! I've always felt this is one of the most intriguing aspects of our sport. You can actually meet legends of the sport climbing the same climb you are on, or at the base, and just have casual conversation. No posse, no flashing cameras, no backstage passes, - just you talking to someone who shaped the history of the sport. And, maybe with the exception of some of today's elite sport climbers, you can actually relate to each other's experiences. That's never going to happen to a typical team sports player where the legends morph into global celebrities.
I remember drinking with Warren Harding when he came to Phoenix to do a slideshow. What a character! I'll never forget how completely down to earth he was. R.I.P. Warren!! |  |
By Tom Hanson From Castle Rock, CO Aug 13, 2008
| My first lead was Piece of Cake at Taylors Falls. MN First multipitch was an FA on the south face of Mount Cascade, Banff, Alberta |  |
By David Eisenstadt From orlando,florida Aug 13, 2008
| My first outdoor lead was University Climb, 5.6 a year ago at Leda |  |
By Chris Parenteau From Baltimore, MD Aug 13, 2008
| I just did my first lead a few days ago. Vertical (5.6) at Rocks State Park in Maryland. |  |
By my alias From Eldorado Springs, CO Aug 13, 2008
| Great thread, I didn't see it last year. My first lead was also the East Slab of the Dome, B. Canyon, on my 8th day of climbing. Good, but uneventful. The real eye opener was the following month when after another 6 or 8 leads that were mostly single pitches, I bit off Ruper as my first long climb and 2nd Eldo lead. My first rack was 4 stoppers and 4 hexes so I tended to run things out quite a bit back then...but I think we may have borrowed some extra gear for our big outing. My partner was equally green and announced that he would not be leading as soon as we got a look at the Redgarden Wall. After an epic (all day) ascent we pulled out the guidebook on the summit to find out how to get down....but it was too dark to read the book. No headlamps obviously. A four hour terrorfest downclimb off the East slabs ensued. The night was moonless and felt as dark as a sensory deprivation chamber. We survived and I will never stop climbing. Mark |  |
By Doug Hemken From Madison, WI Aug 13, 2008
| I think my first lead was "Rockhouse" on Half Moon Rock in the Red River Gorge ... in 1976?
Ed Pearsall & I borrowed a rack from one of the student teachers in our high school, but I remember having trouble finding gear wide enough for the crack. We thought the crux was being calm and confident enough to get up high enough to get in any gear. I guess I've been carrying around that attitude toward leading for 30+ years.
I think climbers have long since abandoned Half Moon to the hikers and sport rappelers. Funny how the popularity of certain crags waxes & wanes, even though the beauty of them is timeless. |  |
By Greg Speer From Fort Collins, CO Aug 13, 2008
| First Sport lead: Coloradoditty (5.6), Jurassic Park near Estes.
First (and only so far) Trad lead: This was supposed to be Left Standard (5.3) on McGregor Slab near Estes. In that there is very sketchy beta for McGregor we got on the wrong route which turned out, we later figured out, to be Camel Toe (5.9+). I led the first and third pitches. The 1st pitch, which actually is mixed starting with 4 bolts, is supposedly 5.7 but felt easier and already had a good tree belay anchor to clip to. I don't think we were still on Camel Toe after that first pitch. The 3rd pitch felt no more difficult than the 1st. My partner, Barry, gave me a passing grade on gear placement and belay anchor. |  |
By Dustin Roth From Lincoln, Nebraska Sep 24, 2008
| First Sport Lead: Dead Can Dance (5.9) on Avalon in Boulder Canyon
First Trad Lead: A 5.8 on Blair II in Vedaewoo with a 5.7- Second Pitch also first multi pitch |  |
By Aaron Martinuzzi From Fort Collins, CO Sep 24, 2008
| First Sport Lead: Oct. 2004, Brother Stair, 5.8 (Left Flank, RRG)
First Trad Lead: April 2008, Direct East Face 5.6 R, First Flatiron. I had ever even placed gear before, my partner only once, and we had a non-leading third. Climbed on a borrowed rack of 30-year old hexes, nuts, and a couple rigid friends/chouinard cams, one leader and two simul-climbing followers. Started out sunny & 45, halfway in we caught a snow flurry, and temps dropped to around 30 with 35+ mph gusts. It got cold, and my LaSportiva Katanas strangled my feet, leading to a little bit of numbness that stuck around for a few months. Barely made it off before dark. A bit of a baptism by fire, but, needless to say, I wanted more. |  |
By Sorden From Inside the Bubble, Colorado Sep 24, 2008
| East Slab (5.5) on the Dome (Boulder Canyon.) Great beginner route except it cannot be TR'd from the bottom with one rope. It has everything: crack, face, flakes and an easy but fun overhang. There's an easy 5.5 start but the 5.7 start is better and more direct. This was the first trad lead for quite a few people I know. |  |
By Wayne Densmore From Superior, CO Sep 24, 2008
| First onsight sport lead - 2nd pitch of Buried Treasure at Tonnere. Did Road to Isengard, and Lothlorien at The Watermark after top roping them, but that's different.
First lead fall - on the well protected Twilight Time at Tonnere. |  |
By Michael Ybarra From on the road Sep 24, 2008
| My first lead was a few weeks after I started climbing: After Six in the Valley, 5.7. I had followed one pitch, done some topropping and taken an anchor building class. In other words, I was woefully under prepared. Dropped stuff, had to rerack while climbing because I didn't have enough biners--basically a full-on Gumby show. Showhow I made it up, although my partner didn't. We came back the next week and climbed the whole route and climbed it again the next day because we dropped stuff we wanted to retrieve (including his approach shoes, which forced him to go to dinner in his climbing shoes the night before). I've thought of soloing After Six in the four years since but that first pitch still scares me. |  |
By J. C. Wilks From Loveland, CO Sep 24, 2008
| First lead, 'Atomic Knee Drop' 5.6 for the name. Second lead, 'Yee Haw' 5.6 to celebrate. Third lead, scared myself because I didn't own enough pro on 'The Dihedral 5.6' and I considered quitting until I talked to Todd Skinner after a program who told me: "You have to promise me to make this your sport, but you can't just say it, it you have to mean it!" ...'and buy more pro'. |  |
By LIV From Denver, CO Sep 24, 2008
| Bolted - Cracker Jack (5.9) Clear Creek Canyon -- felt bold that day. |  |
By Deaun Schovajsa From Arvada, CO Sep 24, 2008
| Benjammin 5.9- in the South Platte, circa 1986. My partner and I had only passive gear and borrowed a few big hexes to lead it. Sick! |  |
By Kevin McLaughlin From Colorado Springs Sep 24, 2008
| Fly on a Windshied , 5.10 b I think. Enchanted Rock , Texas. Whee. |  |
By Eastvillage From New York, NY Sep 24, 2008
| My first lead climb was Dirty Chimney, 5.0 in 1970 at the Gunks. |  |
By Korgil From Lakehood CO Sep 24, 2008
| My second climb I lead some easy 5.6 slab just to get the hang of it before my partner would let me go on to harder stuff. |  |
By acd From New York, NY Sep 24, 2008
| No Picnic, 5.4, the Trapps. Nice intro to roof climbing at the Gunks. |  |
By Isaac Therneau From Rochester, MN Sep 26, 2008
| My first sport lead was "Manic Impression" 5.10a in the Red River Gorge, followed shortly by "Funkadelic" 5.10b. I had been climbing for 2 mo. and my brothers asked me if I wanted to try leading. Didn't have a clue so I went along with it and now only remember beginning the climb, my brother yelling something about don't fall making the clip because you'll deck, and than having my feet back firmly on the ground. First trad lead was "Church Bowl Tree" 5.10b in yosemite after top-roping it. Still haven't taken a lead fall on gear and haven't taken any big ones sport climbing either... |  |
By J. C. Wilks From Loveland, CO Oct 1, 2008
| Tim Stich wrote: I usually don't mention that first free solo before I discovered people climbed with special shoes and ropes. (shudders) It was also in Austin near the Urban Assault Wall. Some 50ft. system of ledges up a corner to a loose scree top out with bushes and clawing for life. Did it alone and promptly lost the memory of doing it for years. PTSD?
Come to think of it I had a similar experience immediately after a beginner class I took. I free soloed Texas Flakes 5.4 at E Rock in a pair of jogging shoes a couple of years before I learned how to lead. Not advised! |  |
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