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East Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"The Route on the Left" aka Sand in the Vaseline S 
Alligator Soup S 
Anarchy S 
Antline T 
Beat Me Up, Scotty S 
Beginning of the End a/k/a Sandy Monster S 
Big Sky S 
Binary  T,S 
Bob's Buttress Crack T 
Death of a Dinosaur  S 
Diesel and Dust S 
End of an Era S 
End to End S 
Extremist (former entered as Civil Disobedience), The S 
Inner Sanctum T,TR 
New Era T 
New Generation T,S 
Sandy Beaches T 
Skyline Pig S 

Beginning of the End a/k/a Sandy Monster 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Dan Durland, 1991
Page Views: 1,530
Submitted By: Darin Lang on Aug 27, 2001

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Seasonal Closures - some are lifted MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The first route right of Bob's Buttress Crack (and the only route between Bob's and Ormes' Chimney), ascends the slightly overhanging face on solid, incut holds, with some old drilled angles for pro. Climb straight up the face, passing the Bob's Buttress belay on the right, to another two-pin anchor about 15 feet up.

Rap off from here. There is a bit of a runout to the first pin.

Per Stich: This route at one time had 4 pins, but now only one remains. An epoxy hole shows where one pin once sat. At present, toproping the route from the chain anchor on Bob's Buttress Crack is your best bet.

This is a combination two entries. To avoid duplication in the database, we've deleted the 2nd entry.

Location 

Per Stich: this is the line directly right of Bob's Buttress Crack on the face but before Ormes Chimney.

Protection 

QDs.


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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 27, 2012
By Anonymous Coward
Oct 26, 2001

The crux move is just below the anchors and used to be protected by a bolt. The bolt is no longer there which makes this climb much more interesting. However before the crux there is the option to do a short, easy traverse to the left to the anchors on Bobs Butt Crack if you don't want to risk the possible runout.
By Darin Lang
Oct 26, 2001

This would indeed be more interesting without that last bolt/pin (I'm remembering a drilled pin and not a bolt, but it's been a while). Was it chopped or did it just come out?
By Dan Durland
Dec 20, 2001

Originally the route was unnamed, way back then I figured it was just a route why would it need a name? Later on Sandy Monster stuck as the incut holds would collect sand after a good rain; always a sign of high quality stone.

In 1988, I put in 4 drilled pins to a 2 pin anchor with webbing and I do recall that it was a fair distance (10ft +/-) to the first pin but the climbing was easy. Somewhere along the way I heard that some of the protection changed or was moved but I do not know the details as I have not been up there in years.
By Barrett Cooper
Jan 24, 2002

I was the coward listed above (oops, I forgot to put in my name). It may have have been a drilled pin (I don't know because I didn't see anything). When I climbed it last fall I couldn't find the pin/bolt and my second couldn't either. I thought we were just blind and had missed it but then talking to another local climber about it he said it was no longer there, so I thought I would just pass along what we saw (or should I say didn't see). I plan to go look when it gets warmer and will make certain if the pin is there or not. I would hate to be giving bad information just because none of us could see it, so if anyone knows otherwise for sure please post a message.
By Sean O'Dell
May 30, 2002

We checked this route out the other day, and could see no fixed pro at the crux either. Unless you can pull 5.9+ face moves in your sleep, I would highly advise the traverse to the Bob's Butt Crack anchors after pin 2.
By Barrett Cooper
Jul 1, 2002

Verified it finally, the pin was pulled by the looks of the hole where it used to be.
By Larry Shaw
Mar 15, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The first and third pins are gone...the first pin is now about 40' off the deck with 5.7ish moves to get to it.
By Sean O'Dell
Mar 30, 2004

Spooky...we all know the story with the runout to the first pin in the garden, but give me a break here...40 feet above a 40% grade full of microwave sized boulders is not exactly how most of us spell party. Call me a weenie all you want, but will someone please retrobolt the start to this thing? I won't tell if you wont...
By Darin Lang
Mar 30, 2004

That wouldn't offend my sensibilities, keeping in mind that my middle name is "Yella". I thought it was a bit runout, even by GoG standards, when there were still three pins.
By Kris Carter
Apr 1, 2004

This would be a great one to rebolt - I took the easy way - on TR after doing Bob's Butt Crack. Lots of fun moves - it must be less than the 5.9+ if you just go to the BBC anchors. Worth the time, but can't say enough that this one seems like it could be a great sport climb if anyone wanted to be that cool.
By Andito
From: Colorado Springs
May 28, 2010

This used to be one of my favorite leads back in the mid-nineties. I moved away for about ten years, and when I got back, half the bolts were missing. I climbed it from the End of an Era anchor the other day and remembered why I loved it so much. I'd like to re-bolt this. Does anybody know the policy on bolting at The Garden? (i.e. should it be done at four a.m. with a full moon, or is noon on a Saturday fine?)
By Stewart M. Green
Aug 18, 2012

Brian Shelton and I, along with David Mason and Robb Conner, took out the old pitons and rebolted Sandy Monster and End to End with beefy new bolts. Some of the angles were solid, but most came out without too much work. So climb on.... Thanks, Dave and Robb, for buying the hardware!
By S.Stelli
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Aug 27, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Thanks for the new hardware on this great route! Very fun!