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Sunset North
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Beginner's Route T 
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Unsorted Routes:

Beginner's Route 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,531
Submitted By: saxfiend on Jul 8, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Beginners route

Description 

A wonderfully-misnamed route, since most beginners will probably not find chimney climbing particularly easy. The Dixie Cragger's Atlas lists this at 5.5, but most leaders find it a grade or two harder. Excellent protection and a good opportunity for practicing chimney technique make Beginner's Route a fun lead.

Starting below the obvious V-shaped chimney, make a bouldering move into the slot and work your way up to a slight overhang. Transition out of the chimney and up a crack to a slabby finish.

Location 

Starts about 15' left of Water in Motion. Rap from a tree with fixed slings and quicklinks.

Protection 

Standard rack, no big gear required. Build an anchor using trees and pro.


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By Joey Wolfe
Aug 18, 2007
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

This climb is longer then it looks from the ground, and a lot more fun. The transition from chimney to turning and stemming at the top is a memorable (fun) series of moves.
By TKHouse
Jun 3, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Uncommon style at the crags in Tennessee. Well worth the grunting.

The anchor at the top (slings with no padding around a tree) is beginning to look questionable. The tree is alive but not particularly well rooted. I recommend building an anchor, belaying up the second, and traversing right about twenty feet to another set of rings.