After climbing hundreds of routes at Rumney, this one is still a favorite.... The flow of movement on Beginner's Route is as good as any.... It's a great way for an advanced climber to warm up slow, or a beginner to hone their skills....
The climb follows a crack in a left-facing corner up a slab...mostly you stay on your feet and use the crack and a few face holds for balance...there are two comfortable rest ledges where you can load up gear placements if you are new and want some practice...at the top you climb a 10 ft slab to the quick clips....
Rumney trad climbs are few and far between, and the ones that are there often get overlooked.... Don't miss this one. A small rack is plenty, and if you don't have gear, you can climb Bolt Line (a 5.8 sport climb just to the left) and step right at the top to set up a top rope on Beginners....
As always, please don't wear out the quick clips, TR off your own draws....
From the main access trail, turn left at the holderness corner area (far right of the meadows) following the cliff you will climb up between two boulders Beginners is right in front of you....
Trad gear to quick clips (you can reach a bolt about a third of the way up that has recently been added for another climb... but you really don't need it).
Climber on Beginner's Route (Bonehead Roof is the ...
From: Salem, CT
Aug 24, 2009
Does climbing this in the rain up the grade? Made it as far as the first flake, but the under cling was too slimy to use, even for shifting balance while stepping left. I even tried going around it to the right. Gave it a good 20mins before my arms gave out. Will try again on a dryer day!
From: plymouth, nh
Sep 9, 2009
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a
This route is awesome, much fun a good intro to trad climbing with good placements and a "runout" at the top, to keep things spicy. Their are great under clings and completely unnecessary hand jams which are always fun. Gear: Nuts and anything up to a number 2 cam. have fun
|By Pal Pocsi|
From: Budapest, Hungary
Oct 20, 2009
This route was fun indeed. The moves are great and there are always nice stances for placing gear. I did find two pieces of loose rock right near the end of the climb. The bigger of the two was about 18" long in the flake below the anchors. It was ok to pull down on this but I think it would separate if you pulled out.
|By N Nelsen|
From: Lincoln, NH
Jun 10, 2010
I was on this route yesterday and the loose flake below the anchors feels much looser than it has before. Just something good to keep in mind. If you're desperate, it'd be better to take the fall than frantically pull a large piece onto your belayer and the many other people who frequent below this climb (especially on a weekend- yikes!).
Aug 5, 2011
Great climb, would do it again. Seemed to me there was a run-out section about 20 feet up before reaching the crack (then another run-out at the top). Otherwise well-protected with a normal modern rock (no need for big cams), with nice stances for placing gear.
Without a trad rack, does not seem like a smart idea -- as a route for "Beginners" -- to top-rope it from Bolt Line . . . because someone who fell in the lower part would take a substantial swing. So still need some trad gear to place directionals.
From: Hooksett, New Hampshire
Oct 2, 2013
This was a great route to learn to place gear, and to learn the importance of extending placements. The ledge is a great place to build a gear anchor if you want to turn it into a 2 pitch climb to practice or expose someone to those skills. Pine Tree Crack is a more ideal route to do that, but this one is right next to the parking lot!