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 ADVANCED
The Playground
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Advanced Start T,TR 
Barlow's Buttress T,TR 
Battle of the Bulge T,TR 
Beginner's Hand Jam T,TR 
Black Wall T,TR 
Blow Hole T,TR 
Burnt Crack T,TR 
Cactus Climb T,TR 
Cheeks, The T,TR 
Face Variation TR 
Fingertip Layback T,TR 
First Strike T,S,TR 
Flakey Face TR 
Flakey Nine T,TR 
Flying A T,TR 
Flying A Buttress T,TR 
Luke and Carlo's route TR 
Moment of Inertia T,TR 
Mononucleosis T,TR 
Moon Dog T,TR 
Mr. Foster's Lead T,TR 
Open Project TR 
Original Horak Route T,TR 
Playground Traverse 
Playgrounder, The T,TR 
Repo Man T,TR 
Route 1 T,TR 
Route 16 T,TR 
Route 17 T,TR 
Route 18 T,TR 
Route 20 T,TR 
Route 25 T,TR 
Route 37 T,TR 
Route 6 T,TR 
T2 Flake T,TR 
Texas T,TR 
Tree Climb T,TR 
Unrelenting Nines T,TR 
Upper Left Roof T,TR 
Vulture Roof TR 
Zander Zigzag T,TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Beginner's Hand Jam 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Carl Horak & Lou Horak, 1971
Page Views: 2,628
Submitted By: Mark Mathis on Jul 19, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
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Despite the name, near the top the route is a nice...

Description 

The best route here at this grade. Perfect hands for ~20ft to a ledge, then small hands to fingers on increasingly thinner ground to the belay ledge.

Location 

Find the perfect hand crack towards the right hand side of the cliff. Belay from the top and walk off (to the right).

Protection 

Standard light trad rack (set of nuts, set of cams).


Photos of Beginner's Hand Jam Slideshow Add Photo
Such a good climb, I wish there were more like it here.
Such a good climb, I wish there were more like it ...
Bill above the all-too-short hand jamming and enjoying the middle section of the route. January 2009.
Bill above the all-too-short hand jamming and enjo...
Devin Shunk ready for the business on Beginner's Hand Jam. March 2009.
Devin Shunk ready for the business on Beginner's H...
Beginner's Hand Jam
Beginner's Hand Jam
Quality jams on a beautiful NM day.
Quality jams on a beautiful NM day.

Comments on Beginner's Hand Jam Add Comment
Show which comments
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Aug 15, 2007

Too bad the anchor bolts got chopped. The climbing and the gear at the top stinks.
By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
Sep 13, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I agree that it's unfortunate that the bolted anchors at the top got chopped, but the pro at the top (after you top out) is very good and very solid--stoppers and #2-#3 Camalots go well.
By Logan Eckhardt
From: Albuquerque
Jan 31, 2008

Call the local Radio Shack and ask for Mr. Horak. I'm sure he could tell you who did the FA on many of these you have questions about.
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Aug 26, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

It's very reasonable to go left to the anchor for Cactus Climb once you get on the big ledge near the top of this route. A .4 and/or .5 camalot serves well as a directional between the two routes.