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 ADVANCED
7. The Slabs
Routes Sorted
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Beginners Direct T 
Beginners Easy Variation T 
Beginners Route T 
Booklet, The T 
Cormier-Magness Route, The T 
Dark Horse T 
Fingertip Trip T 
Girdle Traverse of Whitehorse Ledge T 
Interloper  T 
Man O War T 
Ninth Wave, The T 
Sea of Holes T 
Slabs Direct T 
Sliding Board T 
Slipshod T 
South Buttress of Wankers Wall T 
Standard Route T 
Stop if you Dare T 
Tidal Wave T,S 
Waiting for Comeau T 
Wave Bye Bye T 
Wave Length T 
Wedge T 
White Wilderness T 

Beginners Easy Variation 

YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a

   
Type:  Trad, 8 pitches, 1000'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,733
Submitted By: lee hansche on Sep 23, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: this is the top run out section of the climb we co...

Description 

This route is perfect for a really beginner leader just looking to practice the craft or an easy non committing solo up the slabs... It is a bit dirty in a few part but all in all i was pleasantly surprised...

Pitch 1: (5.2) same at Beginners route... Climb straight up to the big pine tree...

Pitch 2: (5.2) Move right and climb a slightly crumbly gully to another tree anchor...

Pitch 3: (low 5th class) scramble up this dirty pitch through trees to another tree anchor...

Pitch 4: (5.3) Up and right to an AWESOME crack that leads up to the steep headwall... As the crack ends move to the right and belay from a tree on the edge of the woods...

Pitch 5: (5.3) Find your favorite way to get through the steep section and start up the slab maze above...

Pitches 6-8: Weave your way through the slabs being careful not to get yourself in to a bind as the gear is scarce... For the most part staying right looked easiest... there are trees to belay from here and there...


Location 

The farthest route right on the slabs...
You can rap along the route from the overlaps if you don't like the moderate adventure at the top...


Protection 

Normal rack... Rap rings on the trees most of the way...



Photos of Beginners Easy Variation Slideshow Add Photo
Looking down pitch one and two
Looking down pitch one and two
This is looking down the first pitch after the overlaps
BETA PHOTO: This is looking down the first pitch after the ove...
An old bolt on the last pitch
An old bolt on the last pitch
My brother at pitch one belay
My brother at pitch one belay
Me looking off the belay ledge
Me looking off the belay ledge
Just a cool sight on A belay ledge
Just a cool sight on A belay ledge
My brother scott on pitch two
My brother scott on pitch two
Comments on Beginners Easy Variation Add Comment
Show which comments
By joshua corbett
From: Wolfeboro NH
Oct 12, 2009
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a

lee their is an old 1/4 inch bolt on the top slabs and i do mean old.was i on the right route

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 13, 2009

i have no idea josh but the top is kinda up to you id id say you were on... im psyched that you got on it... fun huh?

By joshua corbett
From: Wolfeboro NH
Oct 20, 2009
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a

very fun the top slab was a long run out.we just went stright up insted of working the trees.i have some pics i will put them up when i get a chance.

By jimmi jazz
From: new durham nh
Apr 30, 2010

i love to solo this route. it one of my favs on white horse. yes josh there is an old bolt up on the top pitch

By joshua corbett
From: Wolfeboro NH
Apr 30, 2010
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a

Kinda random place for a bolt.

By Patrick Feeney
From: hartland vt
Sep 10, 2010

i was wondering if anyone could tell me what gear works best for this climb.a friend and i want to do it.i have 5 quickdraws.1-7 of nuts,5 slings,what else should we need to do this.

By joshua corbett
From: Wolfeboro NH
Sep 10, 2010
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a

Hi Patrick, Nuts will do just fine if you have any cams samll they will be good to.There are trees to ancor to on every belay ledge.Jim Dickson and I just climbed this route on Sunday and we only placed 5 peices of pro.It one of my favorits.
joshua

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Nov 13, 2012

A friend and I got lost on this and had to bail after the awesome crack. Where does it go from the end of the crack?

By Chris Lumens
From: Merrimack, NH
Jul 13, 2013

After the awesome crack, we continued climbing straight up to a large tree with some slings on it right below the headwall. Then we angled off right into the trees and then up and back left into another open area. Then I led us probably way too far right into some easy but wet and mossy terrain, necessitating a giant traverse back left through a bowl and up to some solid trees. After that, there is a fantastic dike that goes straight up to within sight of the summit. I was only able to place one cam in this 120-150' stretch, but it was super easy. I never saw any old bolts.

Hope that helps somewhat. It's hard to describe the route, of course. It goes all over the place.

By Chris Lumens
From: Merrimack, NH
Jul 13, 2013

Gear - we used most every cam from #2 down to aliens at some point, and two or three tricams. Nuts didn't see any use. We probably slung more trees than placed gear, so bring extra slings (including some fairly long) and biners for that.