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California
> Lake Tahoe
> Highway 50 Corr…
> Placerville
> Cosumnes River…
> Bucks Bar Dome
> Main Area
Beginner's Cracks
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British
Avg: 2.1 from 91
votes
Routes in Main Area
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Adhesion TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Bat Crack Left T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Bat Crack Right TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bat Roof T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bat Roof Direct TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Beginner's Cracks T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Candy Corn Boulder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Chamberlin's Chimney T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fingerprint TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Fly or Die TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Great Chimney TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Khazad Arete T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Parmesan Prints TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Popcorn T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Rotten Face TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Rotten Face (Chimney Var.) TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Squeeze Cheeze TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Test Piece T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Triscuit Rock TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Unconquerable T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unconquerable Tunnel Through T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Whatchamadigit Crack T,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c C2 |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 30 ft (9 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 8,244 total · 37/month |
| Shared By: | Brad Allender on Dec 3, 2005 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Beginner's Cracks are on the right side of the Main Area of Bucksbar Dome. They are just to the left of the candycorn. There are several variations of the climb, all of which share a 5.2 start.
1) Corner Only - 5.6. Follow the obvious corner to the left the whole way up, staying off of the knobs on the face. Climb tops out to the left as you come out of the corner.
2) Small Knobs On Face - 5.8. Follow the knobs that go up between the corner and the crack. Use the face features only.
3) Two Cracks 5.6/7 - Follow the 2 parallel cracks to the off width. Tops out at 2 bolts at the top of the crack. The large left crack is 5.6. The smaller right crack is 5.7. A 5.8 variation can be made by skipping the big knob midway up the off width crack.
1) Corner Only - 5.6. Follow the obvious corner to the left the whole way up, staying off of the knobs on the face. Climb tops out to the left as you come out of the corner.
2) Small Knobs On Face - 5.8. Follow the knobs that go up between the corner and the crack. Use the face features only.
3) Two Cracks 5.6/7 - Follow the 2 parallel cracks to the off width. Tops out at 2 bolts at the top of the crack. The large left crack is 5.6. The smaller right crack is 5.7. A 5.8 variation can be made by skipping the big knob midway up the off width crack.
Protection
All variations can be top roped from one of two sets of 2 bolt anchors that are easily accessed from the top of the right side of Main Area on Bucks Bar Dome.
The 5.2 start to all variations doesn't take a lot of gear (a 4" piece may work, but is not necessary), but there is a good stance at the end of the 5.2 section to protect above.
Corner Only - Takes 1" to 2.5" and is rather difficult to protect at the top where it gets bigger. Use slings to reduce drag on the lower pieces in the corner.
Two Cracks - 1/2" to 1.5". The lower portion takes good gear in the right crack. The upper portion is a nice off width that will take a few pieces, although they take up the best holds in the crack!
The 5.2 start to all variations doesn't take a lot of gear (a 4" piece may work, but is not necessary), but there is a good stance at the end of the 5.2 section to protect above.
Corner Only - Takes 1" to 2.5" and is rather difficult to protect at the top where it gets bigger. Use slings to reduce drag on the lower pieces in the corner.
Two Cracks - 1/2" to 1.5". The lower portion takes good gear in the right crack. The upper portion is a nice off width that will take a few pieces, although they take up the best holds in the crack!
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