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Warm up Wall
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Beginner 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Sport, 9 pitches, 350', Grade V
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
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Submitted By: Jim H on Nov 7, 2008

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Description 

This is a great route, it involves a little bit of adventure climbing through small stands of trees hanging onto ledges on the slab, some of these are also steep and PS do not get stuck on this route in the rain, the bottom 4 pitches turn into a pretty little waterfall I would not want to rappel.

Let me start by saying that only 15 feet of this route are 5.11 the rest of the route is 5.3-5.9 there are two ways to make it easier.

1.) If you want an easy multipitch climb just climb the first 4 pitches up to the traverse and then come back down; this route would be a 5.9. 2.) If you have 6 ft. etriers you can easily aid past the 5.11 part. There is an anchor station right above this crux.

Pitches 1-3 (5.6) This is easy slab climbing for 150 feet ending in the small stand of trees on the ledge above you. The bolts are pretty spread out so be carefull not to get off route. but the climbing is easy so it is not a big concern.

Pitch 4(5.6) Heading to the top of five you will see a path into the stand of trees, there is rock in there, so head on in. If you do not see a path forge on in and up to a 20' slab with an anchor at the top.

Pitche 5(5.8+) The traverse. After gaining the anchor for P5 look directly to your left and move across the low angle slab. Drop down accross some dirt/trees them pull up ont the slab. The slab is quite blank, but the angle makes it fairly easy. The anchor is located near to corner opposite you.

Pitch 6 (5.11a) The crux. Move up the block to the short blank wall with a dying tree on it and a bolt in the middle of it. standing on the ledge below the wall you can see the anchor. This is a hard sction but the bolts are close together making it easy to aid. Unfortunately this is the easiest way past this point and onto the rest of the pitches.

Pitch 7 (5.9) head up a few 5.9 moves and then follow the bolts out to your right atop a medium ledge. Follow this ledge right until you must reach around the corner to find a hold. This is a blind move with some exposure, but there are easy foot placements and hand holds and the rest of the pitch is 5.8.

Pitch 8 (5.7-) head up the rock into the steep stand of trees (I would sling a tree for protection here) and onto a short face to your right. You will come out onto a nice large flat ledge.

Pitch 9 (5.7 R) This pitch is a way to extend the climb and is often climbed, but goes through some crappy rock; thus the R rating. This is the obvious dome underneath the headwall that can be seen from the ledge atop P8. scramble to its base and climb up the left side where you can see a crack. The anchor is located on top of the dome. The bolts are located in good solid rock bands so no problems with them, but the poor rock in between them makes this nervous to lead. That said I have lead it and as long as you throughly test each hand/foot hold I have never taken a fall due to crumbling rock.


Location 

Start up the obvious corner at the right side of the slab, the first bolt os a ways up, and the second if a little hidden but is 25 feet (of 5.4) from the first.


Protection 

Where the climbing is easy, the bolts are run-out; where the climbing is difficult they are closer together.



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